Advantage of shorter gearing is also better engine braking too.
Engine braking is the only rear braking I use.

I'm currently using stock gearing on the 14, I do have -1/+2 on the 10 (and MotionPro Rev2)
track only, local track pretty technical and longest straight puts you in the 130's max.

Gadson goes -2 rear on the 14's going taller. Says it's the best way
to keep it under control, front end down and plenty of torque to pull it at -2 rear.

Going -1/+2 etc. on the 14, "stock length", full throttle? No way I could keep front end down.

Hats off to guys that can.

If you do go to a smaller front sprocket, that could offer the widest range of gearing possibilities using the same chain. Outside of that, is there any benefit to changing the front gearing and the back instead of only changing the back? I could put a 46T on the rear with my 17 T front and that would have the same effect as -1/+2 on my Gen1, right?

It does move the wheel a lot closer, an additional .65"

16/43 = -.19" over stock
17/46 = -.83" over stock

I see. That info can be gotten on gearingcommander. Sprocket distance. Must be center to center. ...and apparently, I compensated almost entirely by going to a 118 pin chain over 116 pin. Gearingcommander says I should be at -.21" stock WB with 118 pins (actually, they're calling it "links" but they have to be referring to pins). The 118 pin chain was just about the same WB as the worn out 116 pin.

Very interesting, piken. I guess I made a good call on leaving a whole extra 2 links to accommodate my 17/45 gearing. I seriously doubt I would be getting those taller tires in there had I used only 1 extra link.

I'm thinking of going to an 18t front. Does Kawi have these available, or do I need to go aftermarket?

ominousone

I do not think a 18 T will fit a Gen1. I recall hearing something to that effect. Maybe if you eliminated the inner chain guard. I was advised to leave that on. Never tried running without.

Thanks for the info and pic. I do have a 2016, if that makes a difference. Otherwise I may just go down a tooth or 2 in the back.

ominousone

1 tooth up on the front is closer to -3 on the rear. Check gearing commander. It will tell you what speed you will run/gear/rpm. It's not always 100% accurate but pretty close probably more so for legal speeds.

http://www.gearingcommander.com

I went 1 tooth bigger on the back just to see what the difference was as this seemed like less stress on the chain than going down in the front.
There is definitely a difference in acceleration. It has affected the speedo in that I’m now riding around 15-20km/h faster to what the clock actually reads. Not scientifically measured just compared to the bikes I’m riding with. Top end still runs off the clock but it seems to take a little longer to get to 300 after 270/280kmh.
The stutter is there, but it has me baffled. It’s there at low rpm but not consistent. Sometimes it’s at 2000rpm, then next time around 3500rpm, and then anywhere in between. But only noticeable when you hold the throttle in that area.

Top end still runs off the clock but it seems to take a little longer to get to 300 after 270/280kmh.

I'd think it would accelerate faster at all speeds until it hit the rev limiter. Do you think this has to do with the electronics like TC?

I'd think it would accelerate faster at all speeds until it hit the rev limiter. Do you think this has to do with the electronics like TC?

Could be. After 160 mph, anxiety starts to set in because the acceleration drops off considerably.

I am a newbie but can also attest -1 front and plus 2 rear with no stutter on my 2014. I weigh 255 in full leathers and not even close to wheeling if kept under 8k.

Phxguy.

Thank you Rook. There is a ton of collective wisdom here and I appreciate and respect everyone's experience and knowledge. I am working on setting up my bike info and signature pic.

My 44 tooth rear is Aluminum as I could not find a steel one in that size.

I get good mileage out of aluminum rears. For me, two aluminum rears wear as long as about one steel front, about 20,000 miles. Not everyone agrees this is the case for them but for me, I can change both front and rear at the same time on a regular schedule.

My 44 tooth rear is Aluminum as I could not find a steel one in that size.

I don't much care for aluminum either....not on this powerful of a bike. No evidence that aluminum is risky but I have my gut instinct saying use steel.

I got a black steel 44t off ebay for 40 bucks. They also had a 43t which is also hard to find in steel. I had -1 up front but hated the extra noise so I am going to stay with the rubber stock 17t for good and 44t in the back is perfect for me.

Chewy.