To some of you about Mr. Jones or Dave as he calls himself from Sarasota Fl. This guy is not responsible and sold me a mess up turbo and still owes me parts. I tried calling, emailing, texting for around 8 weeks and no answer. I guess I'll have to get my parts some where else the thing is that the part he owes me cost 199. and is already paid. Don't let him fool you and do the same thing that he did to me. When I purchased the turbo system I had to wait like three weeks to be able to talk to him and see where my equipment was at he got back to me like 3 weeks later and I think he picked up the phone by mistake. This guy sucks and I will recommend that no one deals with him. Pay a couple of bucks more and have someone that will respond if you have problems and will get your parts and not have you wait for a month. Stay away from CYCLELOGIC , MR. JONES, OR DAVE AT SARASOTA FLORIDA.

I would rather not go into gory details and bad mouth a guy that's is in trouble, but it must be told that David Jones at Cycle logic is having a tough personal time and a buyer needs to be very aware when dealing with him. I would say face to face ONLY! Sorry Dave, but you've done this to yourself.

I've got lots I could say here with Dozens of Shocking E-Mails to prove all. I was going to post them here, Bikeland and Physco Bike but could not bring my self to hurt the Man, that's not who I am.

I'm also Not sure if his stories are true????????? In order to be a good lier you must be able to tell the same story twice, the exact same way, and that did not happen I can assure you. Hmmmmmmmm

He could have made it right, but choose NOT TO. Only NOW do I see I'm not alone.

Dave, but you've done this to yourself.

No truer words could be spoken.

If you guys Need any help working through this kit let me know maybe I can help. I have had all the probs,,,,, and I mean all.

DON" RUN WITHOUT BOOST GAUGE, FUEL GAUGE, AFR GAUGE, IF YOU DO BOOM

The spring I got was for 12lbs plus with shim installed.

Other Things wrong stopped me from Going Bang. Lucky,,,, I guess.

When she is done you will love it = Scary Fast. Only now Am I glad I worked through it. I see dubious is selling a kit from some one that did go boom so be care full. Don't be that guy.

* Last updated by: Romans on 10/10/2011 @ 4:08 AM *

the thing is that the part he owes me cost 199. and is already paid.

Cut your loses and move on,,, Don't wait, will kill your project. 10 Months I'm still waiting for my boost gauge and filter that I paid for. Maybe on Monday Rofl.

sounds like you guys got off cheap. I spent $5k for the turbo kit and then had to buy the turbo outright from Japan because Dave screwed up and then couldn't afford to buy the turbo for the kit....

Romans, I think I have all the peices in place but I feel like I am on an island when it comes to tuning/perfecting the motor tune. I spoke with Chris Jones the other day and explained the setup that I have and in his opinion I shouldn't have hurt my motor. But he did say the ZX14 pistions are the weak point in the motor.

I only bought the base kit and have either sourced from elswhere or made my parts.
Always had probs getting hold of Dave Im nearly sorted now though.
Romans which guages are you hoping for I got the marshall ones direct from jerzee customs.

Dave screwed up and then couldn't afford to buy the turbo for the kit....

I don't understand, you paid 5 grand for the entire kit and then paid 1500 for turbo,,,,, Your kidding right ?

Romans which guages are you hoping for I got the marshall ones direct from jerzee customs.

I'm no longer waiting. I bought them all again. Not one part of my kit fit, Nothing, New header, New charge Tube. Shit show. Nothing but positive remarks on E-Bay. How ?

But he did say the ZX14 pistions are the weak point in the motor.

1badzx14 has been beating those stock pistons with great success. 270 hp all day long at track.

220 PSI after 20K troublefreeways follow the speed limit kind of pissformance if no one is around wink-wink.

yes Romans, that is very true. I paid $5000 for the kit at the end of June. Dave said he ordered the turbo from someplace in Germany and the story I kept getting was that the turbo was being held up in customs. The last story was that the turbo was in customs so long that they sent it back to Germany. Then dave said he didn't have the money to buy another turbo until October and this was in the first week of August. I couldn't afford to leave my bike in pieces for that long so I worked a deal with Dave that I would go ahead and buy another turbo out right and he would pay me back when he was refunded the money from the German place, yea right.

One fitment issue which I have and still haven't fixed is the charge tube sits to high and the ram air cover will not fit.... not even close.

Hub? I am sorry, I don't understand..I know there is some good input in there somewhere but can someone please translate?

One fitment issue which I have and still haven't fixed is the charge tube sits to high and the ram air cover will not fit

you got to turn the inlet housing on the turbo and then maybe cut on the charge pipe.. i had 2 do both .. and hubs a fukk-up pay him no mind with his hubbish..if you seen his bike you'll understand

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 10/9/2011 @ 10:02 PM *

Hi Bad, I tried to rotate the housing but then it was hitting the oil cooler. I was able to move it just enough to where everything fits except the charge tube sits way to high.

Actually, I have another question for you, Romans said you have been running the snot out of some OEM pistons at 270hp, is this true? I am suspecting a piston or ring problem which can be seen in detail under the heading of Cycle logic turbo problem. Any input that you can provide in making and 8PSI turboed steet bike more reliable would be greatly appreciated.. or do you know of a zx14 turbo tuning Guru here in the Dallas area?

Thanks

rspauldi, if you want to I would be happy to take a look at your map and tell you what I think. I have been making my own as I can't seem to get the one Dave Gave to even come close to working. It has been said before, When it comes to Turbos what works for one does not work for all. This is True but gives a nice starting place. I must admit wild looking sheet ?

With this set up Fuel pressures must be exactly the same and the rising rate reg must come in at exactly the same time with the same output pressure or Map is off. Just saying.

I have been trying to download the *.PVM file to the forum so you can view it, but I am still a newbie and can't figure it out.. EErrrr.

I have the RRFPR, might be same as yours Roman. Static fuel pressure is at 42 PSI, but it does creep up a little bit. The return from the fuel pressure regulator goes into the bottom of the fuel tank. I was thinking that fuel pressure varies a little bit based upon the level of fuel in the gas tank. I don't know if this is true or not but just a hypthosis on my part. During boost the fuel pressure will reach 70 -75 PSI. The brass valve which is on the right hand side of the regulator is adjusted in ~3 turns to get to the 70-75 PSI under boost.

The map that Dave supplied with the kit didn't work for me either. I started by using the autotune feature on the Dynojet WB2 and PCV just to get it to run somewhat decent...

Has anyone ever logged the engine performace using the Dynojet PCV, WB2 and LCD-200 combination? I had downloaded all metrics into and excel spreadsheet and plotted the results but AFR seems to be all over the place based upon accel and decel...

Send file here. rickromans@sympatico.ca

I have the RRFPR, might be same as yours Roman. Static fuel pressure is at 42 PSI, but it does creep up a little bit.

Look at my build pics,,, is it the same. My findings are cold fuel, cold motor = Change in pressure. If your bike has a skip in it or a hick up too much pressure and can't be map out through Auto Tune. Took 4 months to learn that one Grrrrrrrr.

I have another question for you, Romans said you have been running the snot out of some OEM pistons at 270hp, is this true?

yes it is 1 motor went 2000 passes before it pop a head gasket (hit rev limitor) bad track ..my current motor has 1200 passes and was hot lapped 8 passes in 40 minutes this last weekend .. i quit listening to other people bought me a wideband and have done great ..i found that aftermarket pistons break too.. just cost more to rebuild ..only mods my motor has is carpenter springs and head studs all the rest is OEM except a hays clutch and i run E85

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 10/10/2011 @ 9:09 PM *

ZX14 need a good map
10/25/11 7:37 AM

I have a cycle-logic kit from Dave. I need a map since I have a bazzaz Z-Fi and I also have the Auto tune Z-AMF. I try and ride it to get it mapped but no luck. When I put the computer on it is giving me under diagnostic error on STP. I see the RPM jumping up and down. I will use any map available and adjust my PSI to it. They must be under 8PSI, stock motor, with Ivan's TRE, not top Flies, Air Sensor chip, Fuel tower mod from Dave, Fuel regulator, oil pump, external waste-gate 8lb spring, boost controller, nothing is done to motor, will start no problem, but if I try and ride it, it will choke like missing gas, hooked the hose from the fuel regulator to the hose on the throttle body at the end on the brake side of the bike.(it's at the very end of the throttle body at the corner) I have to make sure that this is a vacuum hose. I just need help since this bike has been stopped since May 2010, I want to ride again. Thanks ahead of time. I did put a map that Dave gave me from a PC and put the numbers on my Bazzaz but no glory. if anyone wants to contact me private message my email is ninjarider2008 at yahoo dot com. someone help please.

It sounds like CAN jam. Do this. Who cares where you start:

1. Make a better ground on the PC. Duplicate ride. Did it clear the problem?
2. Pull the bozz, go for a ride = Duplicate. Did it clear?
3. Remove tre next. Do no reinstall anything taken off... sans a good ground, meaning = Duplicate ride. Did it clear?

Hub I also put a new racing chain tensioner. Maybe that is what is making the STP on the Bazzaz jump crazy. I guess I have to adjust it. The TRE was on their for a year or so with no problem. When I place the chain tensioner I oened the cover on the side with the degrees 1-4 an 2-3 markings on it. I turned clock wise to I got it to the tick with 1-4, then screw the tensioner till it hit the chain and backed off 1/4 turn. then tightened in place. when I tryed riding it to see if the Bazzaz would map on it's own, when I got back I turned it off since the self mapping didn't work. When I made some adjustments to try again and turned it on it sounded like a knocking noise so I turned it off. brainstorming a decided to pull out some on the tensioner and start it again. The noise stopped. I tried taking it for a ride to see if it would map but the map just makes it stall if I give it a little throttle(around 15-20 miles and hour. even if I try and hit the throttle pass that it's the same like it needs gas or something. I guess the racing chain tensioner is messing with the STP, I was going to put the stock on back on but will have to take to head cover off. 0.I'm thinking of loosing it, put my laptop on the bazzaz and turning it on to see if I can adjust the chain tensioner so the STP stops jumping around. I will put the first map I had on because i Think in the bazzaz at one point said something about calibration and I read to fast and said yes this is when it really went crazy and I just turned it off and have not mess with it ever since. if these things don't work I will do what you told me to do and see what's up. any input before I do this, let me know. I will wait for your response. Thanks hub for your help Really appreciate it.

I just setup Rooks with a visual. YOu'll have to take this one on the static and blindfolded:

1. Lets remove the right crank cover, use our 17mm wrench on the crank. We turn it clockwise or rotation of engine, as we look a it from the right side.
2. In hand rotation of the bike's engine, meaning, just turn it at what feels like 10° of where you are right now with whatever crank position it is at.
3. We are going to load right were we are with that crank again. We are not going to move the crank any from where we are. We are going to load the links taught on one side.
4. We are going to then, spin our APE's shaft into the slipper until we feel it bottom against the slipper.
5. We are going to then, feel how much we can move less than an 1/8th turn in from there, tighten the nut.

See, you backed out too much on the tensioner, It is not some touch and back off 1/4 turn. It is touch and move in, 1/16 of a turn or no more than an 1/8 turn = Cutting into the slipper, wearing the slipper's other side with too much load on the rubber side of the slipper part. That will make a whistling noise, it's too tight. If it is quiet, no rattle, no knock, that says we might take that cam signal whip out of the CAM jamming... Maybe?

Now, since you brought up a lagging wave with a loose chain, just maybe this will clear things up. If not, revert to the map that did no do some strange stuff like it is doing now. You brought in two new variables. That says, two new ways of troubleshooting the phantom ping.

, hooked the hose from the fuel regulator to the hose on the throttle body at the end on the brake side of the bike.(it's at the very end of the throttle body at the corner) I have to make sure that this is a vacuum hose. I just need help since this bike has been stopped since May 2010, I want to ride again.

What you are doing is pulling fuel under Vacume. You know,,,,, your 42 psi drops as soon as you hit the gas. Install is wrong. Boost only to Fuel Regulator.

SO JUST LEAVE THE LITTLE GRAY HOSE FROM THE REGULATOR WITHOUT ANY CONNECTION? i INSTALLED THE REST LIKE DAVE TOLD ME AND ACCORDING TO THE DIAGRAMS HE SENT ME. I'M GOING TO WORK ON THE BIKE RIGHT NOW AND SEE WHAT CHANGES OCCUR. I WILL KEEP YOU POSTED. THANKS HUBRE: BE CAREFUL

10/26/11 5:26 PM

, hooked the hose from the fuel regulator to the hose on the throttle body at the end on the brake side of the bike.(it's at the very end of the throttle body at the corner) I have to make sure that this is a vacuum hose. I just need help since this bike has been stopped since May 2010, I want to ride again.

What you are doing is pulling fuel under Vacume. You know,,,,, your 42 psi drops as soon as you hit the gas. Install is wrong. Boost only to Fuel Regulator.

SO JUST LEAVE THE LITTLE GRAY HOSE FROM THE REGULATOR WITHOUT ANY CONNECTION? i INSTALLED THE REST LIKE DAVE TOLD ME AND ACCORDING TO THE DIAGRAMS HE SENT ME. I'M GOING TO WORK ON THE BIKE RIGHT NOW AND SEE WHAT CHANGES OCCUR. I WILL KEEP YOU POSTED. THANKS HUB

SO JUST LEAVE THE LITTLE GRAY HOSE FROM THE REGULATOR WITHOUT ANY CONNECTION?

If the hole in the barbed adjuster does not point straight down a short hose is required to make the bend down. Job is Keeps moisture and exit hole clean.

Second hose to Air box; First, Blow in hose to insure Air comes out Adjuster side. Air must come out or boost pressure will be locked in Regulator holding fuel pressure above 80 psi.

Now take that same hose and connect to air box.

Bike will now run. Get to this point. Post findings

* Last updated by: Romans on 10/27/2011 @ 1:37 PM *

ok the hose from regulator is going to the air box. the bike turns on without a problem and hit the throttle a little and responded without turning off. no noises or anything so sounds solid.