Look at the photo with the boot in place. That's how it should look.
ok. looking at an old pic of the pushrod, i see mine was installed with the bootyhole tight around the rod and in that groove between the two ribs. so that's how it goes back. now this is sounding like lube is a very important factor here. hehe
Lube: Any pivot, Rook, hit like a never-seize in charcoal color, or brake [I forget] that comes in copper color.My understanding is the silvery grey Never is regular and the copper color is high temp. I have some white lith which is what I use between the outer tip and the hole in the lever so that will go on the ball end, too.
Hole He Shit, Rook, did you have all that lever there all this time and that means the pivot needed to be shaved down so there is an ever so loose rattle touching. The other way is how the OE is loaded and you could match the AMk lever with slight load, not race gap (rattle).
I've had the Pazzos on a year. I din't grind the pin down a bit. The lever is made by Pazzo and they charge 10x what the Chinese copies cost so I figured it damn well better fit right. I'll save the rant for later if this is the problem.
If there is a bit of load from the fluid pressure in the MC with the OEM lever, I imagine it is there just to eliminate said rattle. the race gap sounds like the best way to go with any lever. I'd never notice a hair of play in the lever. Rather than grind the pin, I'd be more inclined to drill the hole in the lever a bit deeper.
This lever however, this just ever so lifts the pressure plate away from the complete collapse
maybe...maybe. have to try the OEM lever to compare how it installs.
... We now look at our fork canopy over the IIIII]< pressure plate side.
Another pic of the oil filler hole is coming.
Someone buy nco a round How could that lever now give you trouble if before you put it away last year you had no issue.Yes, thanks badnco. Actually, I DID start to notice the slippage just before storage. This started last fall/winter. Cold weather, not too bad. Now, hot weather, horrible. I can only guess why I didn't notice any slippage all last summer with the lever on. My guess is the plates had not worn or gauled enough until Fall. But that remains to be seen.
Cold, it's a hair trigger. Hot, the pack grew so this pushes into the pin. Pin is holding a raggedge lever pull and if you look at that tip, match it. So when rounding, that lowers it so the pivot is not flat into a round hole. Get it?
The pin fits into a copper bushing and it looks like there has been a LOT of wear on that bushing (pics coming). I will probably order a new bushing and drill it. Try to make it feel like the OEM lever on install--or go with a touch of race rattle.
Stock lever for a fast test.
Yep. change oil and road test with stock lever.
Salvage the aftmk so you are the field fixer like it should have been out of the box for the bike.
"should have." I'm still holding back my rant.
AFtmk was not worth the OE damage of that pin mod, so mod the lever. Stock goes back unaltered think.
Yep, always keep everything easily converted back to stock has always been rule #1.
Out to take pics and reinstall the pin. I'll show pics ASAP. You might find the wear marks interesting. I didn't want to get to far into a new discussion since we were working on the clutch plates, but seems like we have an offshoot problem to investigate before proceeding to the plates.
* Last updated by: Rook on 4/22/2014 @ 6:21 PM *