Seen this lil guy in my magazine figured I would try it out on the 14R... Anyone have one?? Should be a lil quicker and cleaner...
http://www.stahlbus-us.com/oil-drain-valve/?xploidID=ujm84cdqshefl0o44tp7e51ch2

06~11 = vertical drain will case the drain tool - N/G
12`13 = horizontal drain angle will not case the plug an break it off - Good to go

Definately not a bad idea.

In the car world I hear good things about the fumoto valves too.

http://www.fumotousa.com/

06~11 = vertical drain will case the drain tool - N/G
12`13 = horizontal drain angle will not case the plug an break it off - Good to go-Hub

Thanks, I was not aware they changed the drain angle on the R models, but I can see why they would. I've heard more than one horror story of lowered bikes hitting the drain plug boss on a hump or high curb.

* Last updated by: Danno on 1/21/2014 @ 5:57 AM *

I've heard more than one horror story of lowered bikes hitting the drain plug boss on a hump or high curb.

I've heard a couple..usually going up a steep entrance to a parking lot. Also heard of scraping the plug guard in a hard touchdown from a wheelie. Never heard of anyone busting the oil pan with that. A better drain plug mod on a Gen 1 is to grind down the plug shield and go with a low profile head drain plug. Might do that one day although I have had no problems scraping the drain plug shield yet.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/21/2014 @ 12:40 PM *

Heres a low profile plug..

http://zxzone.com/drainplug.html

A better drain plug mod on a Gen 1 is to grind down the plug shield and go with a low profile head drain plug. Might do that one day although I have had no problems scraping the drain plug shield yet.-Rook

Me either. And $20 for that plug seems a bit dear to me. But for the bike night stretch-and-slammers, it might be just the ticket.

or go all in and buy the low profile pan and pickup

or go all in and buy the low profile pan and pickup

Now yer talkin'! I know that's a engine protection mod but one thing I learned about high quality aftermarket engine covers, they are not lighter weight than OEM. My billet Woodcraft stator cover is %42 heavier than the OEM cover....that's about 3/4 lb more than OEM.

Good idea, though. Have to put that on the perspective future mods list.

Looks to me like these LP pans are made only for Sidewinder or turbo??? They must have made the whole bottom mounting surface a little lower and eliminated the drop pan where the OEM filter screws on. Pretty damn expensive for a simple block of alum with a hollowed out spot. Solid hunk of 1.25 in thick billet. That's why the pipes don't fit under it.

This is not lightweight either. I don't know why they made the whole thing so thick if all you need is the hollowed out spot to hold oil for the pickup.
ADAMS

Also need this oil filter relocator plate. There's another 8 ounces of aluminum.

However, Schnitz also has this to offer. Looks like all he does is chop the point off the bottom of the drop bottom of the pan and weld a flat bottom on to replace it. Then drill and thread a hole in the back of the pan for the plug. This is a weight reduction mod as well as engine protection. Nice. Cheaper too.

I have the schnitz style that will be going on inabout a week or so.

Good choice. I will do this mod some day.

Now that I look at the pic I posted, I see that part I thought was hollowed out to hold oil for th epickup ( the part with the bright reflection) is actually some sortof vertical bracket that sticks up into the engine. Maybe that is the thing they included to control windage?? I still can't for th elife of me guess WTF they didn't just machine out the whole inside of the pan. If it was full of oil, I'm sure that would be lighter than solid billet. Could it be that thing is designed to repeatedly slam and drag on the pavement for the bikes that are lowered extra low?

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/22/2014 @ 10:30 PM *

....then again, how much lower does the oil pan extend than the headpipes? I guess I would rather slam the headpipes than the oil pan but really...I don't want to slam either one.

* Last updated by: Rook on 1/22/2014 @ 10:52 PM *

[list]

[/list]Just came today... Very nicely built! Came with both regular(silver)and drilled cap..

Looking into the valve ... The key pushes the ball in and releases the oil..

* Last updated by: 06blackpearl on 1/23/2014 @ 6:58 PM *

Great pics. nice. how does this thing work? You pull down on the knurled piece to open the valve and the oil flows through a hose that you attach before the oil change?

Yup take cap off insert the key with hose attached (you have to push and turn like a 1/4 turn gas cap) then oil flows out .. Remove key and put cap back on..

hmMM! nifty. No splash oil changes!

I really don't see a need for that. You don't have to route the oil away from the fairings anywhere.. The drain pan barely fits under the bike anyway. The oil filter is a bigger pain in the ass.

Cut down stocker. The collector sits lower than the pan now. Drain bolt is raised and moved to the back of the pan.

The benefit to the billet pan, is the increased capacity, baffles and trap doors. The wider base of the pan necessitates the use of a different route for the exhaust, like a ti winder.

* Last updated by: fatsix on 1/30/2014 @ 11:00 AM *

Well if u can barely fit the oil pan under bike.? That's a reason right there..
Plus i like to buy stuff lol

Buy a full set of HID's.

Already did .. I use star rotors kit never any issues and great service!!