GDay All,

I'm after a set of new rearsets for my bike.
Has anyone had any experience with the Striker brand?
They are made in Suzuka Japan and look pretty sharp though they are expensive.
I have read through the feedback on various brands including Rooks amazing description and installation guide for the Vortex's but none really grab me.
Plus there always seems to be a small issue here and a minor required adaption there.
The Strikers seem to be high quality, they use the existing brake switch mounted to the rearset frame so no swapping to pressure switches required, they have smart and symmetrical heel guards and in my opinion look great!
It would have been perfect if folding pegs were also included but I know most brands don't include that.
The only thing that concerns me is after investigation there is very little about these on the net!
Any feedback would be appreciated.

* Last updated by: yannih on 8/27/2014 @ 4:47 AM *

I wouldn't be too concerned about quality. It seems like just about everyone is getting good fitting, low priced CNC knockoffs items. I would expect a pricier set of rearsets from a less known manufacturer to be as good or better. These are shown mounted on a 14 so I would be surprised if they didn't fit. They look like they are patterned after Sato.

The optional use of the stock brake switch is a great idea. I also would have preferred folding pegs but after dropping the busa over, I see why they make the pegs solid.

Be careful with the heal guard screws. They look like the same screws I have on my satos. I stretched the hex a little torquing those little dome heads. Use loktite and snug them up good not too tight. I also have had a problem with the rear hiem joint coming loose. There is probably a little spacer between the the joint and the mount on the pedal. Loktite that screw good and snug it up....check it often to be sure it isn't coming out. The grub screw that tightens against the front hiem joint might also come loose but that isn't going to fall off, at least. Use Loktite on everything. I'm always wary about tightening steel screws in aluminum.

I'd paint the screw heads black before installing if you're going with black rearsets.

Thanks Rook.
Probably okay as you say but just trying to get as much information as possible because at the price they are asking for these puppies it would be bloody frustrating if they didnt fit properly or there was some inherent issue that someone else may already have known about from experience.

* Last updated by: yannih on 8/27/2014 @ 6:21 AM *

Just ordered.
Three weeks away.
I will review and post installed pics when completed.

Can't wait to hear how you like them. I'm sure they'll be awesome.

yeah they look pretty good! Japanese stuff is usually really good quality. I may have to get a set for my translogic shifter. Send me a pm if you can when you get them. I wanna make sure I don't miss the review. I'm interested in how far back they can go, how long the pegs are and where your heel rest when you are in a race position. Looks like they would easily convert to race pattern. Finally how big of a foot do you have? lol

dragking,

I don't have the rearsets yet but have the instructions (in Japanese but the numbers are cool).
I can advise there are 6 positions that are as follows.

Position 1. 0mm back/0mm up (stock).
Position 2. 0mm back/10mm up.
Position 3. 10mm back/05mm up.
Position 4. 10mm back/15mm up.
Position 5. 20mm back/10mm up.
Position 6. 20mm back/20mm up.

With a size 10.5 foot ;)

I wonder how these numbers compare to the Vortex's (I believe they have 9-12 positions dependant on version)?

* Last updated by: yannih on 9/21/2014 @ 6:49 AM *

I like mine low and far back and I sometimes raise them for really spirited riding. The only problem is that when I'm in a race position my boot is on the exhaust!

I've actually never had rearsets on any bikes I have owned before (mostly sports tourers).
But I have ridden mates bikes including a recent run on a Daytona 900 that had them and I love the more aggressive riding position they put me in.

Is the Striker movement range shown above large, average or small compared to the competition?

* Last updated by: yannih on 9/23/2014 @ 2:09 AM *

I would say upper average. Check Sato Racing's, they should be similar to the Striker. Good thing with Sato's is that you can set them to MotoGP shift fairly easily.

* Last updated by: dragking on 9/22/2014 @ 3:47 PM *

Is the Striker movement range shown above large, average or small compared to the competition?

I measured my Vortex with calipers. They go a max of 10mm up and 20 mm back. The settings are 10mm apart both up/down and forward/back.

Here's pics of the adjuster blocks.

http://www.oppracing.com/images/cmsuploads/Vortex/Rearsets/ZX14%202006-2007.pdf

Remember, the height of the pegs is one thing but the length and thickness of the pegs is another. From what I can tell by measuring with a tape measure, Vortex gains clearance for cornering but it's not much better than stock pegs when the bike is actually leaned over. The stock pegs are beveled which gives them an automatic 1/2" extra clearance. A long, fat peg is going to put any setup at a disadvantage for cornering clearance. The height doesn't matter as much as the length when the bike leans.

http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=46FE3BF1-D56B-84E2-1E0970447AC884CE

Check out the first few pics on this thread for more info on clearance. As you can see, the real advantage comes from the shorter footpeg on the Vortex, not the increased height. ...and with the bevel on the OEM peg, it's not much worse + you have the flexible joint in the peg in case it does scrape. You could bevel your aftermarket pegs and then you'd have something.

Of course, I haven't figured out a way to test these ideas out in the real world. I've never touched a peg with OEM or Vortex.

Strikers, 20mm up and 20 mm back, sounds like a winner!

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/23/2014 @ 7:47 AM *

Thanks heaps Rook.

After viewing your Vortex instruction sheet, it seems there are quite a few holes on the relocator bracket that can't be used for adjustment which is a little surprising. Why have them there at all? Weight reduction?
Also the clutch side rearset seems to mount over a 6 hole width on the relocator braket while the brake side is only over 5. Am I correct here?
Plus it looks like the Vortex's do have a 20mm vertical adjustment but unfortunately 10mm of this is down from stock?
So 6 adjustment positions back and up, or 9 adjustment positions if you include down and back as well?

When I receive the Strikers I will provide further measurements on length and thickness of footpegs plus some clearence distances as well.
Also glad the Striker adjustment range is okay.

Do the Sato's you have have similar adjustment distances to the Vortex's.

* Last updated by: yannih on 9/23/2014 @ 2:47 PM *

After viewing your Vortex instruction sheet, it seems there are quite a few holes on the relocator bracket that can't be used for adjustment which is a little surprising. Why have them there at all? Weight reduction?

Also the clutch side rearset seems to mount over a 6 hole width on the relocator braket while the brake side is only over 5. Am I correct here?

Plus it looks like the Vortex's do have a 20mm vertical adjustment but unfortunately 10mm of this is down from stock?

So 6 adjustment positions back and up, or 9 adjustment positions if you include down and back as well?

LOL I just set them as high and far back as they could go and I still think they could be more of both for my taste. Some point, your gonna be laying on yer nutz so that would be about the point to call 'er quits.

Do the Sato's you have have similar adjustment distances to the Vortex's

Looks like an upper curve and a lower curve. This is on the busa. They claim 35 up an 30 back.
see the table 1/2 way down this page>

http://www.satoracing.com/rearsets08hayabusa.htm

Not so high and far back for the 14. Good for drag racers though.

http://www.satoracing.com/rearsetszx14.htm

You know. you could take any set of reasets and with a little thought and careful work with a hacksaw and file, you could make an extension that bolts to the frame so the adjuster block is higher/farther back. You can have footpegs up to your knees if that's what suits you. LOL

The ZX-14 Vortex were heavier than the busa Satos. Dremmel out the heal guards like the Satos are and I think they would come out very close to the same weight.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/23/2014 @ 6:06 PM *

Wow, thanks as usual Rook.
Amazing information.
The Sato's really have some adjustment in them!

I will endeavor to add a detailed review when these Strikers come in.
Wish I had them right now.
I hate waiting...

Hi guys,
I said I would do a quick review on these once they were received and installed.

So...

They cost me $499US delivered to Australia.
Packaging was A1 with all parts protected to a very high level.
Instructions were in Japanese but I don't think that is a major issue as they were very straight forward to construct and install but the basic pics in the instructions advise all you need. I actually downloaded the instructions and had them translated in to English (broken) via Google translate but again not that necessary.

Please see pic for parts after they were removed from their excellent packaging.
The quality was superb. Really very good kit. Everything was there, and everything looked like it was constructed to an exceptionally high standard.

The fit I believe was the highlight. Everything fitted perfectly the first time and design of the brake cylinder and brake light switch mounts was top notch.
I noticed when reading other rearset reviews that this particular accessory was needed to be purchased here and an extra modification or two was required to be performed there.
Not these.
Straight on.
All linkages were very solid and all bearing high quality with no slop or excess movement.

The look is extremely smart and I really liked the symmetrical look of the heel guards supplied with the kit. So many other rearsets come with left and right heel gaurds not matching and some even come with none!

The pics below of the rearsets installed also show how I left my carbon heel guards on under the rearsets which required a little modification (to the carbon fiber parts) but I thought it was worth it because I liked the look better. The right cover also covered more of the brake cylinder (check earlier pic in this thread to compare). Obviously this does not need to be done and would eliminate any external modification if left stock.
The total range available is 20 mm up and 20mm back (in between distances are supplied above in one of my earlier posts). Mine are set all the way back and up.

I went for a ride yesterday and loved the difference these have made. I feel they automatically get me into a better riding position not to mention the obvious benefit of further clearence.
When I get a chance I will make some minor adjustments on clutch pedal height.
I have added a pic from the first ride with the new rearsets taken by one of our local photographers who hangs out where the motorbikers ride.

Negatives.
I do not use GP shift but if that was required I can't see how this would be possible without modification due to clearance issues with the side stand. I know this may turn a few people off and should definitely be checked if you require this shift mode.
Plus the tightening bolt on the actuating arm that comes off the clutch spindle was on the inside (front side) of the fairing making it a little hard to get to and necessitated a couple of the left fairing screws to be removed for access. But if someone does get the GP shift happening and the actuating arm is rotated 180 degrees downwards then the tightening bolt would then be more accessible and on the rear or outside of the fairing which is probably the way they designed it as racers had the majority of the say on how these were setup.

A couple of further points.
I am reviewing for ZX-14 only as this is the bike i have.
But not for the ZX-14R.
So please do a little further research if you have a 2012 or later.
Also I have no affiliation with this product or manufacturer.
These are just my opinions.

Lastly the purchase service was excellent from a New Zealand gentleman living in Japan. He was extremely helpfully but the rearsets did take approximately 5-6 weeks to arrive as the manufacturer had run out of the ZX-14 version and so had to be made. However once shipped the waiting time was minimal. I'd say it was shipped airfreight.
I can also pass on his details should anyone be interested in purchase or further enquiries.

Overall I am extremely happy with these and think they were worth every cent I paid and every extra day I waited for them.

Hope this helps and please let me know if I can answer any questions you may have.

* Last updated by: yannih on 10/19/2014 @ 6:11 PM *

I do not use GP shift but if that was required I can't see how this would be possible without modification due to clearance issues with the side stand. I know this may turn a few people off and should definitely be checked if you require this shift mode.

Some have repositioned the sidestand spring to the inside like a Suzuki sidestand. You need to cut and reweld the pins the spring hooks onto.

Sato makes a special GP shift pedal. Never tried it but it seems like it would work without modification. The rear heim joint is situated on top of the pedal instead of below it.

Plus the tightening bolt on the actuating arm that comes off the clutch spindle was on the inside (front side) of the fairing. But if someone does get the GP shift happening and the actuating arm is rotated 180 degrees down then the tightening bolt would be more accessible and on the rear or outside of the fairing which is probably the way they designed it as racers had the say on how these were setup.

I'm sure they will give you miles and miles of excitement and pleasure. Those Strikers look very nice. They remind me a lot of Satos. If the design is pattened after Sato, you may find the rear heim joint and the front nut on the grub screw coming loose. I LokTited the rear heim joint. It almost came out twice on my busa. The front grub screw nut, I'm not sure I would LokTite that because that might make it very problematic to remove or adjust the pedal height. It won't fall off if the nut comes loose....mine is always loose on my busa. Perhaps some plumbers teflon tape on the threads would lock it in place...or just wrap the tape around the back of it so it can't back out.

$499 sounds like a great price to Australia. I paid about 400 in the US for Vortex and I believe my Satos were about 500.

Now that last pic really makes me want to get out and ride.

Frost this morn. Busa is going into storage. 14 is getting put back together...maybe in a couple weeks.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/19/2014 @ 7:40 AM *