2009 first gen zx14 recently went down low speed all small damage I fondly put bike back together to ride but won’t accelerate under full throttle checked air hose nothing is twisted under gas tank what could cause it to not want to go full throttle?

What side was the crash?

drewmosher

The first thing that came to mind was that a throttle sensor moved. The two sensors on the RH side of the throttle bodies. There must be some kind of voltage tester to determine if they're in spec. I wouldn't move them until you test them. You can test and calibrate the primary throttle sensor with a PowerCommander but if it's way out of spec, the best thing would be to adjust the angle and/or replace the sensor.

It was all left side damage done to the bike. It landed on the left and slid on the left side.

Rook, out of spec sensors spike a code. Bumped out of place is a code sent. Are we inspecting

Think the dyno cover moved and is rubbing? But then again, that would make a lot of noise on the spin. Does the bike rev in neutral... no load in other words?

Bike will only rev to 5k before fallin on its face won’t go any higher unless I only go 1/4 throttle and let it climb slowly any more throttle it will just bog down

Secondary throttle is not opening? Maybe the secondary motor is turning but the plates stay closed. Would that show a code?

Primary throttle is not opening?

Rook, a no open is not following the analog. Said another way, the ECU is looking for analog (many) as in 123456787654321. That was open and closing numbers. Code means digit (one) so the code would read 1111111111111.

Drew, fuel/spark/compression goes like this:
1. Compression... You have a bike that starts so it's not compression.
2. Spark... It keeps revving and does not lose spark.
3. Fuel... Yes you have fuel to run, but with fuel injection, it takes fuel pressure to flow the fuel... It's the fuel pump.

Remove the fuel line, turn key on and capture the ounces. Even by looking at the pump flow, you can watch the flow either drip out (bad pump) or it flows out fast and stops eventually.

So if no codes, it's fuel related so I'd start with the fuel pump.

I checked the fuel pump by disconnecting the hose and turning the bike on the pump works perfectly fine. I was told tps sensor by many people so I ordered one of those if that’s not the problem also told spark plugs does that sound about right?

Never touched my TPSs but as I understand it, you need to turn them to exactly the correct angle to achieve the proper range of voltage. Minimum voltage should be 0% throttle, max, 100% throttle. I don't know how you set these without diagnostic equipment but I remember a guy on here called 45magnum who adjusted the angle of his by trial and error. He marked exactly where it was before messing with it. Apparently he eliminated a low rpm throttle hesitation by doing this without replacing the sensor. I don't recall himm saying anything about a code indicating his TPS was out of range so maybe that only happens if it is very severe. You might want to try adjusting the angle of yours before replacing it. The angle might have been tweaked in the crash. Sounds like it could be dangerous so think it through before you do a road test. you will also need a special tool to turn the setscrew on the TPS. If you're doing this yourself, I would try adjusting what you already have because you would definitely need to adjust the new one anyway. Get a super fine point Sharpie and mark exactly where the TPS was before messing with it.

You should be able to check the voltage range of the TPS with a voltmeter somehow. That I'm sure is how a shop would do it. I used my DynoJet LCD to check mine and it also adjusts electronically without needing to move the sensor. If it's too far out of whack, I don't think the LCD-200 or POD-300 is capable of getting it in range at both top and bottom.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/14/2020 @ 11:49 AM *

If no code then no failed part. It's self diagnosing. So it goes:
1. Connector not connected = Codes.
2. Wire out of connector = Codes.
3. Short to ground, out of range = Codes.

No code, no wallet to pull out.
No code, do not tamper with the senor.

How about test sensor? If it's not reading more than 25% throttle, it must be considerably out of spec. If it's not, you know the throttle sensor is not the problem.

Check the Gen 2 SM. Looks like the throttle bodies subharness connectors would need to be taken apart (which is a chore and a half) and the correct pin touched with a voltmeter probe. The specced range should be listed in the SM too.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/15/2020 @ 5:20 PM *

According to my LCD-200, my TPS was out of spec before using the LCD-200 to calibrate the TPS. I never had a code. the TPS was not far out of spec (read 0.03v less than minimum spec) but it was out of spec.

Unless the LCD is indicating inaccurate voltage or if the ECU cares less about perfect voltage than the LCD, there should have been a code. Never saw a code. Did and still do have 0% throttle problem in first gear and LCD doesn't indicate less than 2% throttle when the bike is warm. I'll figure this problem out, the point is that the ECU might need to have significantly more of a discrepancy in TPS voltage than is required to produce a problem in the real world.

...although not achieving a high enough voltage to register more than 25% throttle seems like it should be significant enough for the ECU to give a code.

...although not achieving a high enough voltage to register more than 25% throttle seems like it should be significant enough for the ECU to give a code.

I would sure hope so or the engr that did the fault management software made an error.

the point is that the ECU might need to have significantly more of a discrepancy in TPS voltage than is required to produce a problem in the real world.

it should be the opposite, fault management code in the ecu should detect a problem before it could cause a real world problem and damage or break something.

I dont know whats causing the problem but trouble shooting the big stuff like swapping the ecu with a different one would rule that out and them because his pump is working and he has spark I would be looking at partially fouled/clogged injectors that cant respond to the fuel management curve the ecu is pushing

"I would sure hope so or the engr that did the fault management software made an error."

I would like to hope so too but the oil light don't come on until about 3 psi.

The tip over sensor don't come on until the bikes laid there for 3 seconds.

"it should be the opposite, fault management code in the ecu should detect a problem before it could cause a real world problem and damage or break something."

It should but see previous comment.

The TPS is least hassle to check. If that's not it, check the injectors. It seems more likely a fall would tweak a TPS than clog injectors....but you never know.

The GPS sometimes takes a second to respond to a gear change.

Overall, the sensors don't seem very sensitive...not to what they're supposed to do anyway.

The speed sensor is wrong...the tachometer is arguable....what else???

Clogged air cleaner?

When I rigged the actuator [stepper motor] to a remote location, I had to dial-in the sub sensor. With key on, I moved the sensor till I saw the code go off. I then knew where to center the drill hole for the locking screw.

See if this makes sense. You know those Christmas lights that flicker? It's like someone is flipping the switch on and off. And can speed it up. So say we use the tone wheels bolted to the rims for the k-skid and/or ABS models. Now imagine the speed of that flicker and it pings back and forth, like thousands of times a second. Look at that window on the tone wheel. Look at the closed window next to it. Draw a line so there are thousands of lines in that window and closed window. Call those pings as the wheel moves past the sensor.

Each line represents time. Induce a wheelie. The front wheel immediately slows down and that means those thousands of visible and invisible pings of line have slowed down. That's how many times it is monitoring that incremental movement of that pie cut of that tone wheel. The calculations are pretty much at the speed of light almost so imagine the incremental move has been calculated and discharged to ground and is calc'ing the next input.

When it happens [the slowdown] the ECU recognizes it so fast, the 3 movements; fuel pressure/ign retard/sub close change and down comes the wheel. By the time you see the code on the dashm call it CAN-com lag for a better name. It's the communication line from ECU to dash, right?

So me moving the sensor and watching the dash, I just waited a few seconds and each time the code remained, I moved the sensor again. That's pinging all the time once the key it turned on. So if you can imagine each sensor is being pinged thousands of times a second, it knows or is reading a resistance range of a set value(s). That wire wind or hard part heats up and goes out of spec, the ping calls the code.

ECU wise, someone had a stumble at 3k and it turned out to be the ECU. This, no throttle response would be another black box glitch. And yes, I followed a sensor-no start/starts and dies from heating up that showed the correct values.

Maybe I missed something, but a crash is; plastic first, frame brace second. How could a crash mess up a sensor? You know how deep the sub and tps are located to call some sort of damage to it, or goes out of adjustment due to a crash?

Mufflers and headers pinched closed? Pull mufflers and run header only?

How could a crash mess up a sensor?

If the sensor is calibrated by pivoting on a bolt, it could have pivoted from the impact of the crash. It was LH side so it's doubtful anything hit the sensor.