Hi Guys, this is my first ever forum entry and I hope I am doing it right, I need some help.

I have an 09 ZX 14 w ~5k miles. I have only had it a short period of time when I decided to turbo the bike. I went with Cycle logic which uses the IHI VF22 turbo(sprung at 8psi max) and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, rest of the motor is stock. I have all the dynojet goodies, PCV, WB2 w/autotune and the LCD 200. I used the Muzzy iginition advancer to retard the timing by 4 degrees for reliability. Installed the bonniville pro for speedo healing and to rid myself of the 186mph limiter. I am running pump gas (93 octane with NOS octane booster). Oh, recently had the bike dyno'd to make sure the AFR were in order and to keep the bike reliable (i can provide the results if it might help diagnose the problem). My bike is not a racer nor do I use it for track days, I am just an old fart that loves the feeling of torque and top speed mix in every now and then.

So, On a weekend ride last weekend, no real abuse at all but I did hit the rev limiter twice which I normally don't do, I normally shift at about 9k when getting on it... please remember, street bike here... but when stopped at a stop light it was noticed that smoke was coming out of the crankcase breather hose. being a turbo bike the crankcase vents into the atmosphere and not the airbox.

rode the bike home, even got into boost a couple times and it still felt strong. Decided to to a compression test to make sure I didn't hurt something, and behold...

With the bike warm, all plus removed and the throttle WOT here are the results:
#1 = 150 PSI
#2 = 75 PSI
#3 = 170 PSI
#4 = 110 PSI

Made me want to throw up... I thought I was doing everything correct and salf and have a reliable bike. I only got 800 miles on the turbo before this happened.

I am looking for advise. first off, what did I do wrong? second, how do I fix it? and third how do I keep it reliable still using pump gas?

I have learned so much from this website and i would appreciate any help you guys cud provide to getting me back on the road and reliable. Oh, one other thing, I was loging the ride with my dynojet equipment if anyone thinks that would help with the diagnosose..

Thanks

whoops, forgot a few things which may help:
-massive crankcase pressure
-No overheating or coolant loss
-Plugs are dark, look like some of my old 2 stroke bikes
-No exhaust smoke (seems strange with the lack of compression)
-no motor noise, still purrss

just more info, Thanbks again

What BOOST,,,,, please tell me you have gauge. Scary

-No exhaust smoke (seems strange with the lack of compression)

Any oil flowing from crank case vent tube ? #'s can't be correct.

Oh, recently had the bike dyno'd to make sure the AFR were in order and to keep the bike reliable (i can provide the results if it might help diagnose the problem)

Post Picture of results.

I'm thinking .8 bar left,,,, New .5bar right.

Look, they come out with a blade runner, I'll be first in line. Push-nudge Uncle Bobby out of the way I see him at the head of the line. You guys are way ahead of the curve on me in this field. Uncle Bobby has that shit all over it.

Boost comes to shove, you know I'm going to tweak that pressure someway, somehowedoit here at, kneeinjuryforum. I guess some of you got down on your knees, got rammed tunneledid we?

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Thanks for the replies Roman and Hub.

Yes, I do have a boost gauge (max boost pressure has been 8PSI and I usually don't stay there very long), fuel pressure gauge and I log, RPM, AFR, TPS, duty cycle on the fuel injectors, boost levels using the analog input to the PCV, gear position and lambda (which I don't know what this is right now)using the Dynojet LCD-200.

Oil from crankcase? not actual oil spurting out but more like smoke and obviously after a while the vapor does turn to an oil residue which covered the left side of the motor just above the countershaft sprocket.

I thought the same thing with the numbers but I have checked them with the motor cold, then cold with WOT, then warm, then warm WOT. There is some variation between the different results but the trend is the same, the compression tester is not an expensive one but it does screw into the sparkplug threads and has a good o-ring for sealing against the head.

The actuator on my kit is the one on the left.

Hub, I have read your reply about a dozen times trying to understand the point that you are trying to make, I am sorry man i just don't understand what it is you are saying or how it helps with my situation.

I will post the Dyno results when I figure out how to attach it.

Thanks

I don't know if this worked or not but it is supposed to be the last run on the dyno.

I reckon its nipped a ring Im affraid.......

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But wouldn't it be blowing smoke out the exhaust? And, if I damaged a piston wouldn't you expect bad compression reading on just one cylinder. Just seems strange that 3 of the 4 cylinders are out of the servicable compression specification... I just wasn't hammering on it that hard. I don't know what to do, maybe a leak down test?

Oh, one other thing. None of the spark plugs had any metal flakes on them, they were dark in color like it was running rich but no other abnormalities.. I'll see if I can upload a pic. still pretty new at this

Do you reckon its lifted the head and wants the gasket doing?

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I don't know grin, would that explain the excessive crancase pressure? no coolant loss or overheating? no smoke out the exhaust? Is there something or some test to perform that cud help me narrow into the problem before tearing it down?

According to Chris Jones if the motor is torn down the pistons should be replaced because the OEM pistons are "junk". Any recommendations for a good turbo piston?

I have also read that the stock valve springs need to be replaced as well, any thoughts on this?

Thanks

Did you guys remove the crank case vent tube from inside the oil pan ? Plastic tube ring a bell ? Mine has been removed, if I stay in boost for extended periods of time oil mist comes from the filter ? Could this be what you call smoke ?

If not, crank case pressure will push oil up the tube.

Hub, I have read your reply about a dozen times trying to understand the point that you are trying to make, I am sorry man i just don't understand what it is you are saying

It will take some time too learn Hubbish. It's pretty wild, but I now understand every word lol. Don't speak it yet ?

Look, they come out with a blade runner, I'll be first in line.

If H-D can make more HP with less cc's, Imagine if they planted a blower device, be it super or turbo charged, I think I might tinker with the product to see what you gentlemen are discussing? I have no clue what hose goes where? Therefore, it would be fun to follow the OEM trail instead of the aftermarket titty ringer some seem to be in. I can odor a part over the counter, not listen to one more stinking excuse why your parts are not compatible.

Push-nudge Uncle Bobby out of the way I see him at the head of the line. You guys are way ahead of the curve on me in this field. Uncle Bobby has that shit all over it.

This was more an inside joke for the long term regs or long term taking in the forum on the outside. He was a moderator at another world. I drop names about turbo, he knows THE people I happen to know being it is a small world after all. When it comes to detail and finished product... Need I say more. I would think a turbo kind of guy would gravitate to that bike. I've raced a heavy blade back in the Riverside days. Get a front straight? Look the F out the way or run over you I can't stop the boostay lots of HP! I'm INN!

Boost comes to shove, you know I'm going to tweak that pressure someway, somehowedoit here at, kneeinjuryforum. I guess some of you got down on your knees, got rammed tunneledid we?

This is sentence wrinkling, where I continue the; If push comes to shove, you figure I can't leave my hands off of the product line. I find something about that bike's way of working what is uncorkable, via, ignition, fuel massage, etc., you might find a different approach but a safe approach of modding from stock configuration. And when all is said and done, I will look the fool screaming to use OEM parts is parts so the bike becomes more bulletproofoo-foo fooling around with someone and something to do with turbo parts? I did not read the story at another website. I can't comment. I can though, assume one side. I may be wrong, but either way... Did you stray from the OEM with some other parts inside?

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The return hose in the oil pan has been removed when the oil pan was off for drilling and tapping.

Speak Hubbish yet? I am really trying to understand but without much success.

Hub, thank you for breaking it down into layman terms so the new can can understand. Fact is, it's more clear but still only as clear as mud... I'll keep trying.

Thought I would post a picture of the plugs, for some reason the picture makes them look a bit rusty but that could be because it's been raining here all day..

Look at 2-4 center electrodes. Those are sparking off a lot of arc than 1-3. That is some strange shit.
Look at the oil ring around #2. That is your lowest compression cylinder. Lots of knock you can't hear. What do the top of the pistons look like?

There should be a V in the center of the piston dome [for machining purposes]. Detonation can meet that spark and, well, hammer the piston dome, collapse the grooves over the ring, lock it; oil comes in the chamber to fire and you know how hot oil burns? Hotter than gasoline. The 2-storkes run with that mix, but you mix the right ratio? Boom!

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/9/2011 @ 9:20 PM *

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Hey, I must be getting better at Hubbish, I actually understand enough to ask some questions..

I guess my eye is not trained to see what you are seeing Hub. I do see the oil ring around the #2 plug but i don't know what to look for to diagnose "sparking off a lot of arc" ?? what is it that you see and what does it mean? and most importantly how do I avoid this in the future?

I haven't pulled the motor apart yet so I don't know what the top of the pistons look like.. I want to make sure I have a good understanding of the failure mode before tearing it down.

I tried to lessen detonation by retarding the timing by 4 degrees (using the Muzzy mechanical advancer/retarder) and running 93 octane pump gas, from a very busy gas station and adding NOS octane booster. In the very beginning I was running 111 octane race fuel (leaded) mixed 50/50 with 93 octane pump gas but Dynojet said the leaded fuel would damage the bosch o2 sensor.

Thanks Hub...

Romans, I forgot to ask, where did you get the actuator pictured above on the right hand side? Please don't tell me Cycle Logic?

And, do you have any internal motor mods? pistons? valve springs? iginition timing? cam timing? I just want to make this motor reliable and yet have the fun of boosted power..

Thanks

Romans, I forgot to ask, where did you get the actuator pictured above on the right hand side? Please don't tell me Cycle Logic?

Lol, answer is no, but I did buy a spare pump off E-Bay from him or his wife or whatever. It was sent outright away with a thank you lol. He may not have known it was me.

No else sells that little pump and I looked every where.

I also bought the Arm off E-Bay and Gear driven pump from another vendor which I have yet to install. Once swap is done he is no longer needed.

The arm came 0.5 Bar and is threaded. Turn threads one full turn in = 1 pound More Boost Carefull Boost greed is yummy.

well guys, should I just perform and autopsy on the poor ZX14 motor to find the root cause of the failure? or should I continue to look for answers based up the data I have in hand?

Just found out that you can't pull the juggs off of the ZX14 to replace the pistons. Looks like a full teardown and rebuild. I have split the cases on much simpilier motors before, replaced crank and rod bearings but I have a feeling I may be a bit over my head with the ZX14.

while inside the motor what should be replaced to make this a reliable motor. Chris Jones says, "pistons, main and rod bearings and the bolts/nuts the hold the connecting rods". He had a name for what type of bolt/nut there are but the jist is they are only good for one torque..

I have also read the valve springs are week and should be replaced. What else guys? I only want to do this once and have a reliable low boosted motor that is mainly a commuter but does get ridden briskly on the weekends..

Thanks

You need to look at this as any other case split. Same theory, different looking parts. With that said, go slow. Tear down things as normal. Report if you have a problem or can't figure out something, there are enough tech savvy guys here to help out.

First, check to see how straight those rods are? Then, if the pistons collapsed on the rings, we know det was the cause. There is con rod bolt stretch and if the second time around shows out of spec, then yeah, change the rod bolts.

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Thanks Hub, I appreciate the advice, I guess i will give it a whirl and see what happens.

Hub? when analyzing the picture of the plugs you said that "that is some strange shit". Can you expound upon that? is there something I can do to stop this "strange shit" from happening?

Romans? you had said on the "be careful" subject that "I must admit wild looking sheet ?" are you talking about the Dyno results? perhaps the AFR? I spoke with Chris Jones again about this situation and he promised to send a copy of a Dynorun where the AFR is just about flat and at 11.0 to 11.5 and that's how it should be...

I think it's time to put on the lab coat, stretch on the surgical gloves and start this exporitory surgery to find out why she "stroked out"...

We are in a sequence type firing order. It says that each suck off the IAP (intake air pressure), you are going to receive an individual serving of said fuel to said suck off the intake's sensor. Think like this. I am sending in 4 individual fuel signals via a vacuum pull off the IAP. We work with one number(s) kind of input. You do not have your compression reading at least in a balanced order, so goes the fuel sequence into something like this:

Cylinder #:
1. Shit
2. Bing
3. Bang
$. Boom!

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