Is it generally the stator or rectifier? Any aftermarket ones that work well that dont cost as much as OEM?

This is a pretty dumb question as I know how clean your bikes are, but, have you checked al your grounds to make sure one is not loose?

As to your question, I do not know . Never had to replace one an a Kawasaki..

* Last updated by: chrly on 2/17/2019 @ 4:24 PM *

I replaced the battery and i checked it before i took the old one out and they were tight. Im not sure where all the grounds are. I did a couple of tests per the manual and due to my limited knowledge im not sure whats wrong. The altenator/stator check showed 51Volts exactly what manual calls for. Then i got stumped on the rectifier check because i didnt understand the instructions.

* Last updated by: morgstang on 2/17/2019 @ 5:30 PM *

Well, you are further ahead of teh game than I am..Hope someone comes up with a solution for you soon...

1. Charge battery so it reads 12.8v or less once fully charged.
2. Toggle the dash to read volts.
3. Start bike so it runs with the charged battery.
a. If volts run up to 14.8v and hold steady = It is not the rectifier.
b. If the volts climb past 14v = It's the rectifier.
c. If the volts do not change and hold steady when blipping the throttle = It's the stator.

Buy OEM replacement and eat the extra cash for quality. If said aftmkt parts fail down the road... You could have spent those extra bucks to buy OEM. Now the poor quality is burnt out and you are out of that bulk of cash you could have put towards the OEM. Do not buy twice or turtle told you so.

Signed,
NOLTT

I pick C...when i turned the key on it read 12.8
When i started the bike it dropped to 12.3 and never moved even constant rev at 4K RPM.

Hub...why would the stator test i did show the proper 51 Volts charging when constant revved at 4K RPM?

Aftermarket electrical is all cheap crap the ChiComs have made in Shri Lanka or Bangladesh. If its easy to get to sometimes I will use after market - example: One of the coil sticks was bad on the wifes car and I could not determine which one easily, the dealer/oem was ~$125/each and I ordered all 8 from ebay for ~$85. Yr later all is just find but its simple to get to and no active components to worry about.

I would use OEM on my bike for this part for the reason Hub described

That I don't know, stang. It goes something like this:

If the vo/reg failed, AC would run up the wire, run thru the surface of the vo/reg (if failed) and boil the battery liquid so it would smell like sulfur. The battery case would bulge out from the heat and expand.

If the stator puts out still, the vo/reg would not exceed 15v (for argument sake), therefore you could see the vo/reg holding the 12.8v steady.

If the stator was bad, you'd be running 'total loss' which means you feed off whatever is held in the battery and depletes down as the current is drawn to the lights, ign, dash, etc. So you conclude there is no excess volts reading at the dash so eliminate the vo/reg, and point to the stator.

The charging system uses 3 oomponents:
Battery
Vo/reg
Stator

So to narrow it down, battery is new,[not it], vo/reg grounds excess volts [not it], or the stator output = Bingo!

To understand a 32 amp stator of a harley, there are only 2 wires out of the stator. However, the windings wrapped around the cores, it is one continuous wire. That's why only 2 wires at the plug. If you think about it, 180 degrees or half the side is 16v and the other 180 degree sweep is 16v again. So magnetically speaking, you have N as one sweep, S as the other sweep = 32. If you see a coating on the stator, it is dipped in a liquid where the coil winding on the core is about to coat the copper wire strands with a sealer. In other words, the coating covers the wiring so no wire touches the next wrapped around wire. However, if one of the cores heats up, where the coating melts and exposes the copper wire onto another, you have an induced resistance. This resistance is now lower than 16, but say 12.

So now the N-S sweep is 16-12-16-12-16-12 and so on, not a constant 16-16-16-etc. The 'balance' is lost at the stator.
If you divide 3 wires into 51 = 17. Therefore, one of the phases is under 17v, thus the 'imbalance.'

Take a multimeter, set it to ohm's resistance, or infinity. All 3 wires have to match equal resistance is one, the other is to ground the meter (-) probe to the engine, the (+) probe to one of the wires. No resistance should be noted. In other words, one of the core wires did not ground itself to the core and is now directed to ground. No needle sweep, or digital number reads, then no ground is present.

* Last updated by: Hub on 2/18/2019 @ 10:34 AM *

i'm going to be nice and share something

before you buy pull your fuel tank up and check the stator connection under it by the sub frame and see if it melted the 3 pin connector to the rectifier wire very common .

stang, I would not rule out the v/reg, so the probe process goes something like this.

Pg 16-51 gen2 shop manual:
1. Set meter to 1 k ohm.
2. Black probe(-) shows to hold steady on W.
3. Red probe(+) is going to walk the prongs to get a reading.
4. Hold v/reg body where the cooling fins are facing up, the prongs facing you.
5. Read top line where W and W intersect showing - in the W box. It means I held black probe on W, placed red probe on W in other words.
6. Black probe is still held on W, while red probe moves to BK1. The ideal number between 10-270 is in the middle of those numbers. If the range is reading 9 on the low range, 271 on the high range, call it 'breakout' numbers; which spells JUNK.
7. The 3 black (BK) wires head into the reg as AC from the stator. WATT you are measuring is a one way diode. It keeps capturing 17v over and over x'3 waves.
8. Out of the box is DC. More or less we are saying the rectifier is converting AC to DC. Out to the battery is the W (white) wire. So if we use 14.8v or less showing this range at idle, 17 - 14.8 = 2.2v sent to ground (BK/Y).
9. Again, any hi/low numbers more or less reads somewhere in the middle. Electricity is a balance. So the closer the number-matching, the better the balance is the black box.

So having that much heat to ground, we also have that concentration at a junction box on the frame, and/or wire harness. However, the black/yellow wire heads to a j-box, located at the right front nose area, where the right winker wire comes out of the main harness, look for a taped up square ground-junction box that has melted or not. These would be the BK/Y or ground wires and said BK/Y from v/reg heads into this junction box.

Preliminary tests show the stator. Have one ordered.

It was the stator...

A crispy critter!

Morgstang, I think I’ve seen you over at the ZRXOA?

You are correct sir. I had a 2002 ZRX1200 for 10 years.

And a VERY clean one it was !!

Clean...........but slow. My wife still laughs about the time that Subaru .....

Was that stator Original or Extra Crispy?