about heating the nut..I've done a little with some map gas but I'm worried about melting any rubber seals on the shaft... what do you think.

good news,managed to crank out a few more psi and wah-la! nut came off, good thing I already ordered a new nut because this one is toast! thanks for all the help...

WOW Hole E crap, Edge glad yo got that stubborn SOB off of there. Here I thought everyone was exagerating! I guess I was a little lucky to turn that thing with my 24" strong arm and a 6 point impact socket. It was about as tight as any nut I have found on this bike but no match for my bar. Just be careful not to lever the bike over with a long handle and DEF use a 6 point and not a 12.

yeah Rook, I'm no newb when it comes to wrenchin and trust me when I say that nut was tight enough to foil even Conan the barbarian!

BTW, I am riveting the chain on right now. I ended up with a 16/41 (down one in front), bought a 120 link DID ZZZ chain and I'm surprised at where it puts the mark on the guide on the swingarm. After the chain is together it will hit somewhere around the third hash mark back and there is no way to get it closer than that. So when you said you wish you could have gotten your chain shorter maybe it wasn't as possible as you thought?

for anyone interested
16/41 combination requires 180 links of 530 chain.

I used a RK chain tool kit BTW and worked great especially for breaking although I would feel better if I had the spacers and rivet guage you had in your EK kit, Rook.

Replaced both sprockets and chain today and the tutorial was a great help. I would second the suggestion to only remove the long bolt from the clutch slave. By just removing that bolt the clutch slave stays attached to the sprocket cover.

Rook's how-tos are great!!!

I used a 600lb 3/4 impact gun from Lowes.Was a Kobalt.I had a 1/2 inch gun from Matco.Didn't even touch the front sprocket nut.The Kobolt got it first time.I got the 16 tooth on it and it's too much hassle to change back.By the way everytime I did this on two ZRX's and this bike I held the clutch lever in and put a zip tie on.That way you don't have to worry about the fluid leaking.I like the 16 tooth and 55 series rear tire.
Craig

I am so glad these things help people. Sometimes I wonder how many folks actyually even get to look at these.

I held the clutch lever in and put a zip tie on.That way you don't have to worry about the fluid leaking.

I did that too for a time. then i released it and guess what --went out to the bike after it sat a couple days and first thing i did was grab the grip and squeeze the clutch. oops. it was as good as new after I put it back together and gave it a good bleed.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/27/2012 @ 4:35 PM *

OMG after seeing all these horror stories It made me not want to do my front, but I broke down bought a 16 tooth and prepared for battle lol borrowed my buddies good snap-on 1/2 impact let the pressure build in the compressor and I'm all set to start going to town on the impact and wouldn't you know i barley pulled the trigger (less than a second) and the nut was on the floor I don't think it was very tight at all cuz then i took it to the rear axle which is at 94 ft lbs and it took like 5 sec to get it broke loose. But as Rook mentioned about the plastic gasket on clutch slave be careful if re-using cuz mine snapped when putting it back together so now Im waiting on a new gasket to get here.

wow, you had luck with the countershaft nut, GOOD DEAL! Mine was not awfully hard either. careful on the Riffleman now for sure!

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/6/2012 @ 1:41 PM *

rook yea I'm thinking the front end will be really light on its feet now lol

I was expecting that it would just roll off from a dead stop without giving any gas. It is not like the bike is going to throw you if you are reasonable. I was afraid to hit it hard for quit some time. After I got used to the gearing for a few months, I started to really appreciate the power increase. Now I feel like the busa with OEM gearing is pretty bland compared to the 14. The gearing really changes the character of the bike.

You'll have to let us know if yur 16T front whines. You know, I think even my 17T SuperSprox is starting to whine. It is almost in audible with the pipe and earplugs but I noticed it yesterday for the first time. It starts right at about 55 mph. It's quiet enough that I can forget about it now but maybe it will get louder in time.

Just rememebered, scotty, /....IDK if you read tghe posts after the write up but "conneaut" said the long clutch slave cylindeer screw is the only one you need to remove. The other sprocket cover screws can be removed and then the sprocket cover can just hang there by the clutchline w/out removing the slave. Never tried it but next time I will.

Hey Rook thanks for the write up.
I followed this and changed my chain and sprockets but when removing the cover I only removed the long bolt in the slave cylinder and left the other ones so the slave cylinder remained attached to the cover. Did not lose any fluid and clutch works great.

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^^Thanks for letting me know about that time /hassle saver, conneaut14. Only thing, then you have the whole cover hanging there but that should not hurt. Could wire it so it does not hang on hose if that is a concern.
I would go back and edit this valuable tip in but at this point, I'm not about to redo pics. Thanks. Next time I will have to try that.
With your method, I think you would still get air in the clutch if the lever was pulled. That was the mistake I made and the reason I had to bleed clutch.

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Yes the cover does hang right there I wrapped a couple rags around it and tied it back.
Thanks again for your write ups they are a life saver

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/7/2012 @ 3:14 PM *

lol yea rook i seen that after id already pulled all 3 of em out

rook all i can say about the 16-43 combo is WOW!!! I had the front end up in the air going into second every time lol this gearing ratio makes that 1/5 turn a lot more tricky

I like the shorter gearing too.
The nice thing is that it is cheap and fairly simple to do. The front is a bit of work but once you've done it, piece of cake.

Thank you very much for posting your experience Eric. I am very glad the tutorial helped you.

Oh, and the countershaft nut.... A long 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and a pipe through the wheel took care of it. I did have to drop the exhaust to get room in there for the pipe. It would be much easier with a high mount single side system.

The OEM cans have been off my bike for a long time now but I can see how they might be in the way of placing a bar through the spokes of the rear wheel. I have also heard of people using a partner or hanging weights to apply the rear brake to immobilize the rear wheel. Seemed a bit iffy to me given the fact so many people report the countershaft nut being so difficult to turn. ....and since you brought it up, might I reiterate the importance of being VERY CAREFUL when turning on that nut with a 2-3 feet of bar to increase leverage. It is a real tip over risk. Alway s go easy and be paying attention.

Very nice write-up. I didn't remove the clutch cylinder. No one has put up a youtube video so, I decided to make one. Enjoy...

http://youtu.be/aRMNw4mm3mg

Thanks for posting the link fasty. Also for the tip about the clutch slave cylinder....yes, by all means leave the bolts in except for the top one that holds the sprocket cover on....This shortcut will eliminate any chance that the clutch slave will open on its own and require bleeding. Only drawback, you have to let the sprocket cover hang on the clutch line but no biggy--just wire it up to something so it's out of the way.

nice write up rook! will say what a pain removing the lower plastics are on this bike. surprisingly my front sprocket came right off , although was using a kawasaki impact gun lol! that may be the trick :) left the clutch cylinder connected to the cover so hopefully wont need to bleed it.

I knew it was going to be a bitch so...........

I sprayed penetrating oil into the the nut and heated with a small torch til it boiled.....sprayed it again and heated again........can right off with a a 1/2 impact at 120psi.

Impact is good if you need it but a 24" strongarm was enough for mine. No penetrating oil or heat. Whichever method is used, I think it's best to do the bar through the rear wheel trick with engine in N.

I think it's better to grind the pins down until you can pry the outer plate off with a screwdriver when removing an old chain rather than using the riveting tool to press the old link out. When you are trying to press out one old pin, the rear plate has to bend (not too likely) to let one pin slide out while the other is still in place. This leads to broken push pins and is unnecessary. If you grind the master link outer plate enough, it can be pried off and the rest of the link with both pins will slide right out. Save your tool for riveting the new chain together.

i already had the impact so it was the first tool i used and worked great. and yeah i agree danno, i took my dremel and cut the heads off the 2 pins with a cutting disc and just stuck a screw driver in there and smacked it with a hammer and the link popped right apart within sec's.

also cycle gear has a sale going on right now omn a chain breaker/rivet kit, says its regular $89, on sale for $29. snagged one up to do the rivets. http://www.cyclegear.com/CycleGear/Accessories/Tools/Multi-Tools/brand/STOCKTON-TOOL-COMPANY/Chain-Breaker-and-Rivet-Tool-Kit/p/36518_00000

* Last updated by: thebiglebowski on 3/31/2014 @ 6:38 PM *