Have been looking for a set of shorty levers for my 2017 ZX14r ABS SE for quite a while. Anyplace that I could find that actually showed the ABS SE showed the same part # as the regular model - which I knew wasn't correct. I asked my sales guy as Motosport to see if he could find them. After talking with the various manufacturers Vortex was the only one he could find that said they had it.

When it came in it was definitely not the correct lever for my model. Vortex contacted me and said they thought they had it - that the brake master cylinder was the same as on the H2r. They shipped that one to me and it fit perfect. So if your looking for levers for your ABS SE Vortex has them - or you could probably order the brake lever for an H2r and the clutch for the ZX14.

If you get one, watch that clutch lever especially if it wasn't made for the 14. If it doesn't go on as easily as the OEM lever, it might be pushing in the rod. The clutch will slip under hard load.

I did, that's my bike. I checked that both sides are off the rods.

I put some CSV on thE gEN1

I had a heck of a time finding matching levers for my 2016 se. Finally switched to brembo rcs masters, but crg doesn't make carbon levers for brembo clutches. Very disappointing experience. I heard from a few sources that the zx14 and busa needed the largest masters available at the time, but I've since heard of other people using 17mm brake and clutch masters which are much more common..

Thanks for that info.

I have a pair of Pazzo's I'm selling and didn't even think about the SE's having Brembo kit on them.

I'll need to edit my ad description.

Rook - so it turns out that while the lever would come off the rod it was still putting a little pressure on it. I've got about 5,000 miles on the bike with that lever on - and it started slipping at about 6k on a ride Saturday (3 times and I caught it quick each time - sensitive feel from my road racing days). Took it off yesterday and put the stock one back on and went for a ride - no slip. But I really didn't like the feel of the stock lever so I pulled them both apart and I took the rod out of the master cylinder and compared. In the stock pivot pin it went deeper and it was a somewhat loose fit - you could spin the rod in it. With the one from Vortex it just jammed in there and wouldn't bottom out or rotate.

So I took the pivot pin out which was a hassle all by itself. It's held in with a tiny little snap ring and I don't have a pair of snap ring pliers even close to being able to get that small. Worked it out with tiny flathead screwdrivers (took about 30 minutes ). Then I drilled it out slightly to a larger size and a little deeper - compared the two until it would go in the same depth. Note that the stock pivot pin is flat in the pocket (they must do it with an end mill), the Vortex was just a regular drill bit. It's brass so it drills REALLY easy - take it slow.

Took it out for a ride today and success, no slip . I'm going to call Vortex this week and let them know.

* Last updated by: SteveStLaurent on 9/7/2020 @ 11:35 AM *

Note that the stock pivot pin is flat in the pocket (they must do it with an end mill), the Vortex was just a regular drill bit.

That was the exact problem I had with Some Chinese Pazzo copies I have. There are flat tip drill bits you can buy online. I recall a comment on a thread from years ago where a guy just laid his Pazzo on a drill press table and drilled he bushing a tiny bit deeper. Then it fit. I imagine a flat tip bit catches very easily so I guess shave a little at a time rather than drill. Never tried it myself. Sounds like you got it with your pointed bit. I suppose that cone shaped bottom will wear deeper over time faster than a flat bottom would.

The problem I had with my Pazzo clutch lever causing slipping was that the MC pushrod was not in the bushing hole. I think I installed it improperly. I could clearly see the pushrod had worn into the aluminum of the lever and the bushing hole was turned way over to the side and had frozen in place from accumulated grit. I removed the bushing, cleaned it up and lubed it. I installed the lever carefully and verified the pushrod was in the hole. It works fine now. I just did a WOT run to about 150-160 yesterday and no clutch slippage.

I'd get yourself a small cir-clip pliers at O'Rielly's. The one for $11 with interchangeable pins is the way to go. It has small enough pins to take that clip out. I'd remove and clean that bushing every year at least on the clutch.

Worst case I can just make a new one. Just some round stock with a slot cut in one end so you can turn it if it gets turned around and a hole in the side. I'll just monitor the wear when I do my yearly clean and lube - made note to check it in my maintenance log.

You could make a new bushing. I don't think the slot is too important if you install it properly. The hole would be the hole depth and location would be the critical thing. Brass probably would be a good metal to use to avoid wear. I imagine brass would wear easier than the surrounding aluminum. I do not think the bushing in my ZX-14 Pazzos is bras though. It's not a brass color.