New owner of a 2014 ZX14r. This makes my 15th bike, and I am coming off 2012 Ninja 1000 and before that a 2010 GSXR 750.

I chose the 14 because I wanted a better bike for touring, which includes aggressive riding. I've done my fair share of track days and while the 14 checks pretty much all the boxes for me, its lacking suspension. I've done Ohlins shocks in the past, and fork internals from GP suspension, but one thing that is baffling me is the ride height on the 14. Many complain about cornering clearance, so here's my conundrum.

Penske and Nitron both offer ride height adjustability. Penske can build one 12mm longer, and Nitron allows up to 7mm longer. Nitron can also make it longer by any length I specify. I want to raise the rear, but leave the front where it is. Faster turn-in and more cornering clearance is what I want

The problem is, how high can I go?

Sounds like you know enough about suspension. I run a 190/55 rear and lowered the front 0.5 in to improve turn in. I think the /55 raises the rear ~.5 in. If it was me I would be talking to the guys at Racetech in Anaheim CA about the changes also. Just off the top it seems raising the rear more than about 1 in is going to change more than turnin? Assume you set the sag correctly or biased it a bit high?

PM Trailboss on this forum he instructs and tracks his 14 in the Seattle area, he should be able to give you better info.

The Ohlins shock can be increased in length a little by threading the pivot down. A 200/55 will help some too. Don't think a 200/60 will fit. Why don't they make extension links for the 14? They have that for the busa.

As a thought...before you drop the dime...might try having your stock suspension really set up for your weight, riding style, etc. I had mine done by a guy in San Diego (Dax) who owns SportBike Suspension Tuning...and I honestly was floored by the difference in handling, and it only cost $40 and maybe 45 minutes of my Saturday morning.
Timo

http://www.sportbikesuspensiontuning.net/

Your name is familiar. Are you the same CDG from BCSB?

Thanks for the replies....

Swapped the rear tire for a 55 series before even riding the bike, and for the record, the difference in height is 9.5mm (or 3/8"). It helps, but not enough.

@timomasalin - Well versed in setting up sag etc, at 215lbs without gear, I'm close to maxing out my spring anyways

@Erikir - Yup, thats me, same guy

I'll shoot trail boss a PM!

* Last updated by: Cooldaddygroove on 11/16/2016 @ 3:03 PM *

Got your pm and replied.

The stock suspension on the 14R isn't sufficient for track pace if you're over 200lbs. I had my rear maxed out while running a 200/55, and I still hung up the lowers constantly. I was hanging off like a damned circus monkey just to hustle that fat bitch around the course in any sort of a respectable time.

As I said in the PM, spring rates matched to your weight (front and rear) will allow you to achieve proper ride height without maxing out your adjustments. Then you can look at adding ride height as needed. The long wheelbase, combined with the relaxed steering head angle on these bikes leaves a lot of room for rear ride height adjustment without creating stability issues.

One thing to remember is that the width of the cases is what kills our ground clearance. Upgrading your suspension, raising your rear, and running a 200/55 will all help to give you a few more degrees of clearance... but you're still going to be working HARD just to keep pace with intermediate supersport riders mid-corner.

Thanks TrailBoss. Any advice on "How High I can go?" Can I go as high as 240mm (1.0") higher in the rear?

Swapped the rear tire for a 55 series before even riding the bike, and for the record, the difference in height is 9.5mm (or 3/8"). It helps,

That is probably the difference in total height of the 55 and the 50. Thought a 55 was 10mm higher total. If so you only have about 5mm increase in ride height but it helps. A 200 will add a couple more mm and I promise you, you will notice that.

Can probably raise the rear a few more mm with a KA544....probably the same shock fits the Gen2.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/18/2016 @ 2:43 PM *

Honestly, man, your best bet is to buy the shock with as much adjustability as possible and then dial the rear height in till it feels good.

Soupy's.. you want +3", you got it. Would love to see pics. Might get these myself.

http://soupysperformance.com/soupys-zx-14-custom-raising-links.html

Also, the mount can be shimmed.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/18/2016 @ 6:09 PM *

+3"?!?

ZX14SM!

I would try it just because it would look sick as all hell. Easy adjust without removing anything.

...but what if you feel lowest setting, +1" is to much? You're stuck. hope soupy did his homework.

* Last updated by: Rook on 11/18/2016 @ 8:51 PM *

Brocks window links have been redesigned and are superior to Soupys links. Some guys report failures with Soupy's links. You can order custom lengths from Brock as the drag race guys want to lower the bike while the road guys like to raise it.

* Last updated by: HanksZX on 11/20/2016 @ 7:45 PM *

thank you Hank. will check it out.

Ok, Nitron says they can build the shock "up to" 25mm longer. One of their dealers in the UK recommends 15mm. Regardless of length I will get 7mm of adjustability.

At this point I feel like its a crap shoot. 15mm or 25mm?

Couple of thoughts here:
Before changing stuff, set your sag. This gets the chassis geometry where it should be.
Most bikes have a rising rate shock linkage. Before assuming that 1" longer shock will raise the rear 1", disconnect one end of the rear shock and take some measurements while raising and lowering the bike (chassis).
Also, when the shock manufacturer says you will get 7mm of adjust ability, have them define that. Are they giving you 7mm in a positive direction, 7mm in a negative direction, or 7 mm in both directions for a total of 14mm?
I had a turbocharged Honda Blackbird and had a triple click Penske set up at the factory in Pa. with a shortened shock body and both positive (longer) and negative (shorter) adjustment. Forks were shortened internally 1/2" with Penske internals. It took a lot of screwing around to get the ride height set to where I could enjoy the horsepower of the turbo with a stock length swingarm which was great in the twisties and also enjoy those top end pass's without a rake induced wobble. I'd be careful about raising the rear to much if you like top end runs.

Thanks for the completely useless post

Thanks for the completely useless post

What an ungrateful bastard.

You are not paying people for advice, they are just trying
to be friendly and to help out.

A thank you would of been more appropriate.

Fuck off.

* Last updated by: piken on 12/1/2016 @ 8:52 AM *

+1
Was kind of thinking the same thing. 5 posts? What a dick!

Ok, I might have been a bit harsh, but as soon as I red "Well you might want to adjust your SAG first", it just rubbed me the wrong way. Sorry to HanksZX.

RESET...now's the time for a reset.Everybody calm down. Saying 'might have' is pointless.Everyone here thinks..'I was' is a bit more acceptable...???Carry on.

Okay...I'll bug off now.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 12/9/2016 @ 11:51 AM *

Ok we all reset.
Sorry Cooldaddy, I don't know if your a dick or not and shouldn't have said that. Welcome to the forum where a thread can explode at any moment.
Dave

"Ok, I might have been a bit harsh, but as soon as I red "Well you might want to adjust your SAG first", it just rubbed me the wrong way. Sorry to HanksZX."

Thank you...not a problem.
I generally try to help guys with a mindset that there are people of varying skill levels reading my posts.
I in no way meant to demean your knowledge and tried to add some of my experiences for you to consider where I was coming from. Sometimes I type to much...:)

It's all good!

Santa was good to me....Nitron R2