Draining overnight so the last drop is out of the engine is now cold. Then starting up the bike to level it off and park it without riding for over 15 minutes, yes, this will induce condensation.
You pour oil in the new filter and let it settle thru the pleats and you fill it more, almost topped off. This way, you're quick on the spin and don't lose so much. Look at the rubber diaphragm in the filter. It's a simple flap that will close those holes so you don't lose prime in the filter cartridge.
Look at the horseshoe [flow] arrow at the oil filter. Out of the 'oil pipe' the pressured oil pushes that rubber diaphragm out of the way. What debris is crushed between the oil blades, [due to suspended shit in the oil], that debris is going to be caught between the pleats inside the cartridge. When you cut the filter open, you expose those pleats. Then, take a pair of diagonal cutters, snip both ends and pull the pleats out of the cartridge; then pull the paper apart to see what is being trapped? Thinks like, the factory bolt liquid locking agent, metal high-spots like break-in debris; trans tooth chips, or gear dogs, the gear's edge where the dog meets that recess, and crank/rod inserts so you can see if the plain bearings are hammered by detonation, normal wear, etc.
You change the oil at shorter intervals so this helps from wearing out those oil pump blades. See, when the crush happens, between those pump trochoid gears, the metal compresses both blade contact points; and when the oil is being closed by that blade, an oil [pressure] loss is going out between the depressions.
Say the filter comes, you top it off, you swap it out with the old one, you don't top it off because the riding season is over. First ride, you read your note at the key switch telling you to top it off before you ride. No condensation changing the filter when it comes.
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