LSL Frame Sliders Install

LSL frame sliders are designed to prevent damage according to every bike’s specific crash characteristics. The ZX-14 LSL frame sliders have a two point frame mount which distributes the shock rather than transferring it to one point directly behind the slider. LSL sliders have a plastic cushion that is designed to soften the initial impact of a crash and also prevent spinning of the bike as it slides across pavement. The main slider puck may never contact the ground if the plastic cushion endures the entire slide. The plastic cushion can be replaced and the sliders may avoid damage as well as the motorcycle.

The ZX-14‘s body panels are wide and they require long mounts which act as levers in a crash. For this reason, any slider on a ZX-14 might actually cause frame damage that is worse than the fairing damage the sliders prevent. It is best to go with sliders that have a good reputation such as LSL or not use sliders at all.

Tools:
front and rear stands
8mm hex tool socket.
2 1/2” x 4” x 3/4” soft wood block
floor jack
ruler
nonpermanent thread locking agent
6mm hex tool socket
torque wrench
12mm socket

Right Side

1. Remove the foremans, lowers and side fairings (see FAIRINGS REMOVAL). Place the motorcycle on front and rear stands so that it is parallel to the floor.

2. The holes on the right side marked by the gold pointers in the photo below are on the front engine bracket under the airbox. The top hole has nothing in it. The bottom hole is an engine mounting bolt and it should be broken loose using a 8mm hex tool socket. The Left side front engin mounting bolt may also be broken loose at this time but DO NOT REMOVE ANY OF THE BOLTS AT THIS TIME AS THEY ARE SUPPORTING THE MOTOR!!

4. Cut a 2 1/2” x 4” block from 3/4” soft wood. This will be to placed under the oil pan as a backup measure. I normally do not lift under the motor to support the bike but it would be an emergency situation if the motor required support and the rest of the bike would be supported by the stands.

5. Place the block of wood on the center of a floor jack and raise the jack enough so that the wood block touches the underside of the oil pan. Avoid placing the wood block over the oil drain plug or the drain plug guard.

6. Using a ruler, measure the shank of the large (10mm thread diameter) bolts included with the sliders and select the one with the 50mm long shank. Also select the smaller (8mm thread diameter) bolt with the shank that measures 25mm.

7. Using a 8mm hex tool socket, remove the OEM engine mount bolt and it’s washer. Do not remove any other engine mounts until the right slider mount has been installed securing the right engine mount. Do not remove the pink factory thread locking agent from the threads. It is reusable if the OEM bolt should be reinstalled.

8. Place the right slider mount. Apply nonpermanent thread locking agent to the small bolt and thread it into the top hole using a 6mm hex tool socket. Apply nonpermanent thread locking agent to the large bolt and thread it into the bottom hole of the bracket using an 8mm hex tool socket.

Torque specs: top slider mount bolt to 13.5 ft lbs
bottom slider mount bolt 44 ft lbs.

9. The sliders go together as shown in the picture below. The 10mm threaded bolt with 125mm shank passes through a spacer, nylon cushion, slider puck and post. The larger diameter of the post goes against the back of the puck. Install the slider assembly to the slider mount using an 8 mm hex tool socket.

Torque spec: slider assembly mounting bolt 25 ft lbs.

Left Side

10. Make sure the floor jack is still under the motor and that the right hand side bolt that secures the engine mount has been torqued as described in step 8. Use a 12mm socket to remove the subframe bolt and washer from the left side subframe member. Use an 8mm hex tool socket to remove the engine mount bolt and washer below it.

11. Place the left slider bracket. This part is designed to be used with the OEM washer between it and the subframe. Pick out the bolts with 65mm shanked, 10mm thread bolt and 8mm thread 30mm shank bolt. Apply non permanent thread locking agent to the threads of the bolts. Use a 6mm hex tool socket and an 8mm hex tool socket to draw the bolts up evenly. Refer to step 8 for torque specs.

12. Refer to step 9 to assemble and install the left slider post, puck, nylon cushion, spacer and bolt.

Weight

The slider parts weigh 1 pound 9.3 oz.

The bolts weigh almost an additional 3/4 lb. The total weight of the LSL slider parts installed is 2 lbs, 3.1 oz.

The OEM parts removed to install the sliders weigh 3.6 oz.

Net weight gain of 1 lb, 15.5 oz.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/23/2015 @ 9:40 PM *

Rook, you do the BEST "How To's" I have ever seen. Thanks from all of us.

Mad

you got it , man!

Thanks for the tutorial, these are the frame sliders I am getting for my bike!

NINJA ZX-14 MotoVlog

^^^I believe they are one of the best choice. I did my homework on these.

Hey Rook could you post some pics of the sliders on the bike I'd like to see how far they stick out past the fairing I've noticed a lot of sliders don't stick out much past the fairing.

Sure, conneaut14. I will shoot some today and I'll measure with a ruler too.

Here ya go Con. It is hard to tell exactly what sticks out the most by shooting a few feel away. You get SO much perspective distortion. I had a hard time telling myself.

Aint that beautiful?

Sticks out exactly 5 15/16" from the black frame engine mount. I am measuring from the lower hole.

...but what about the lower portion of the side fairing behind and below the V shaped side vent?? That looks like it protrudes farther than the flat top area behind the directional light. Looks mighty close with the camera. Maybe that is going to drag?? What would be the sense of saving the top if the bottom drags? You have to replace the side fairing if one or the other or both drag. I see why you want to know how far the sliders protrude Connie. I never even thought about that.

I feel the upper side and the lower side. Sense of touch is better than sight alone. The slider does feel like it would save the whole side fairing.

Let's step back a bit and have a look.

looks like the slider is the farthest protrusion.

definitely

other side is good tooo

way back 50 feet with zoom should eliminate just about every bit of perspective distortion. Looks good for the whole side but the pipe is going to eat it if the bike falls.

We see how far they stick out perpendicular to the bike. The only question I have now is if the bike falls, will it land and drag perpendicular?? The back of the bike is thinner than the front. I guess the swingarm or spool would drag on the right. Would the side scrape? IDK. Maybe some day I will stand a piece of plywood up along the left side of the tires and lift it until it touches the bike. That would give as good of an idea as possible what would drag in a fall. Right side, the bike would slide on the pipe and the slider.

I don't plan to test them out for real

* Last updated by: Rook on 5/9/2012 @ 3:27 PM *

Looking at the pics, I think the lower would drag no matter what. You would need the sliders to stick out like cruiser crash bars to save those.

I noticed your 1/2 inch drive has the port on top for oil... Craftsman hasnt done that in 20 years.
You take good care of your tools obviously.

I noticed your 1/2 inch drive has the port on top for oil... Craftsman hasnt done that in 20 years.

Good observation! They sure don't make tools the way they used to.

NINJA ZX-14 MotoVlog

Thanks Rook

I noticed your 1/2 inch drive has the port on top for oil... Craftsman hasnt done that in 20 years.
You take good care of your tools obviously.

LOL I inherited that and a bunch of other tools from the former fatherin-law. The Family Tools! Bitter/sweet memories. He is such a good guy but damned if he would ever turn a wrench. No doubt, that is a good part of the reason that ratchet is still like new. I believe it belonged to his father. Maybe I will pass it along some day...IDK?

Hey Rook
I just installed the LSL frame sliders, they came with two black bolt covers, how do you remove them without destroying them? Thanks

IDK what you are talking about. If you mean the delrin sliders on the pucks...? ...those should just press right out of the aluminum dome part aftre the puck is removed. ...at least that seems to be what i recall.

Here is a pic of the bolt I'm referring to but w/o the black dust cover cap. I'll get a pic with mine installed tomorrow.

must be something new. Mine did not come with a dust cap. Look just like the pic you have. Bolt is visible. Seee my pics after the tutorial above.

Really like these. Old thread but these LSL are relevant !

Looking at the pics, I think the lower would drag no matter what. You would need the sliders to stick out like cruiser crash bars to save those.

I agree. Was looking also for something that would save the tail/exhaust? would need some huge rear spools.

I was sold on them because they are suppsed to be safer for the frame in a real crash. Since I've installedthem, I've heard at least 2 reports on here that the frame cracked with LSLs. iMO, there are no safe crash sliders for the 14. They're good for a driveway tip over but may cause more damage than they prevent in a real crash.