I want to remove the flies on my 07 zx14 and am wondering if their are any instructions with pictures floating around out there. Also wondering if I should go with a PC?

* Last updated by: jrp0629 on 2/24/2010 @ 8:37 PM *

Look up at the "STICKY" on the main Performance section you posted here in. Take your time. Do not let the shaft move or strip'see'zzz!

Brand new phillips screwdriver. Heat it with a torch until it can sizzle water and then let it sit in the screw slots for 1 minute. That will melt the locktight and it will come out pretty easy. Don't tap to seat the screwdriver or bendzeeeeeees -- maybe.

Be mindful of how you are going to get those screws out once they are threaded out of the holes. Magnet tool helps.

I put a rag down in the stack,just in case!

OK thanks guys. Would you reccommend a Power Commander after I pull them, I have a set of slip ons and am going to put in a K&N.

With the recipe combination you have, there are 5 Tuning Options you can choose from is adjust seasoning for taste:

1. Gonna race it on the weekends? Then, yes.

2. Gonna putt on the street, never see trackday-1/4mile-street race for the life of the bike? Then, no.

3. Gonna go play with your buddies, hang your balls out faster that they can ride? Then, yes.

4. Gonna say it will be rare you wind it up that long is WOT it every once and awhile? Then, no.

5. Gonna fool yourself thinking you need that much HP, someone on a 600cc gonna whoopiss your ass? Then, yes, at least I know I have plenty of HP next time.

My main style of riding is street riding, the chances of the bike hitting any type of track is slim. My main concern is doing engine damage if I don't put a PC on. Thanks

My main concern is doing engine damage

If I had any concern about engine damage, I would be stressing a fuel bump with your mod selection. This is not the case with your setup.
If you were open exhaust belting out over 120db, and open ram without air cleaner, then I would be justifying how you need to move the [fuel] sooner with the faster air about to beat you to the valve close. Then yeah, that is slightly lean if you want to return to any performance is jack up the fuel so some goes in and not so much that leaner proportion of air.

Besides, we are talking about an 'open loop' bike. Open loop is more tunable than closed loop. All the air/engine pressures/water temp sensors run without the 02 sniffer in the exhaust pipe closing down what you just tuned up. If you say the bike runs rich all stock and you can see the dyno's A/Fratio move away from said middle line, crosses that center fuel feed need I say more?

Wink-Key-Stinky-KeyFob is you are dreaming a smellyvision map for me is this one is way stumble over rich'did it to my bike I'll be touching the exhaust tip is sooty my luck key charm is use the fob as a handy wipe. Are you running with the subthrottles in play? Then no, you do not need a piggy. Pull them out like me? Then no, no engine damage there either. Air is too slow with the pipe still muffled down/air cleaner still in place kind of low rpm street cruising gonna whip it up for a split second is no, you still do not seem in my opinion, to be close to needing a bump in fuel you in the steady, slow street riding putt-putt speed limits mostly.

One thing you can do is match your gas tank mileage between stock and your new setup. Who beats it past the gas station will tell you who has the better tune. If I am running up and down a hill and the bike sounds like it is on a dyno, I should have blown up that setting [w/out pig]. The stock air cleaner not sitting in ram position, rather a K&N setting [farther away] instead, where it did no harm said engine. The hack settings do harm? No. Running one pipe that was letting out enough db w/out closing it down with a you know what? She is spooky quiet at idle is I guess that setup did no harm either. And you know what that muffler bearing is all about is to drag your eyes reading down to hear > Me har-de-har-har-ing it up in my helmet, controlling wheelie at the same time going...

Anyway, I'll show you one side of your tune where I have either matched your tuneup or exceeded your tune setting; beat said rpm to where there should have been engine damage somewhere bye now is a hole in the engine case, the bike cannot take the tune or abuse? Bike is fine here. Or say, I should have melted a piston showing lean detonation with said combination in play? Oh, I can hear engine knocking, but cars have been knocking w/out a knock sensor long before they were invented and they are still running. There is a lot of throttle romping on my end. Don't you think I should have damaged my bike by now?

You are probably like me. When no one is looking, we kick the stones out of the way for a few feet, we rip the road up like a measuring tape rolling back in we are done. Then no, no engine damage will occur, we throttle a little like that all day long [is me].
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If you think we have established that your tune can be left alone as it is, I'm going to throw you a loop and ask you if you like the peppy tune you created w/out piggy, or would you like a smoother running bike? If the piggy play and your setup are combined? Guess what...

... The right piggy map or that smoothing layer you can cover over the stock tune, can cause the bike to run a lot smoother even if you have the throttle body syn within spec or as close to smooth running as possible. You can always improve what is already tuned stock.

It [the tune] just keeps going and seems to never end. Say nothing.
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At least you have more options down the road.

Thanks guys!! Got the flies out without any problems and bike all put back together in less than 1 hour. I think it really helped to heat up the screws with a soldering iron before trying to take them out. Next step is to see how it runs and feels without a Power Commander and go from there. Thanks again.

The screws on the flies are not Phillips............J.I.S.
They look like a Phillips but there is a difference. Google J.I.S. screws.

Wow thats good Info, JIS (Japanese industrial standard) No wonder people blow the screws out and have to drill on them and shit. Its different than a phillips. Do they have the little dot on them?

* Last updated by: buck20 on 3/27/2010 @ 4:11 AM *

Now that's good info!I had NO idea.Thnks-(course,pulled mine ages ago-with the phillips-yes,I had to drill one of the heads out-but no problem-just coated the stack with grease and set a small rag in there first).But it was a drag.So close...and yet....

It's still a good idea to heat the screw with a electric Weller and clean the tip so nothing fills up the
the J.I.S. drive. The loc-tight is still holding it some even with the correct J.I.S. screw driver. It's
hard to find a J.I.S. driver with a hardened tip that is magatized. Years ago I saw the Dot above larger "Phillips"
looking screws on my Honda and wondered :Why" is that there? Japs did not do that for nothing as I found out
many years later. ZX-12 fairing screws, Phillips drivers removes finish inside drive and hello Rust from rain etc.
Glad I could help.
Louis