I'm pretty green with ZX 14 so bear with me on this.

Laid my bike down tore up the center and right side of my faring, right headlight broken off bracket, vehicle down sensor damaged, bracket for rear brake pedal broken some minor scratches. In the process of putting her back together, my first purchase was a vehicle down sensor so when I received it in the mail I installed it but it won't start. All the electrical seems to be functioning (short of the missing headlight and the rear brake pedal switch for the taillight) but no engine turn over. The display does not show any error codes; where am I going wrong?

* Last updated by: NiX on 1/25/2014 @ 3:43 PM *

I have dropped mine as well and I am quite certain there would be a code if the vehicle down sensor was tripped. That should clear itself in a short time. after the ignition in switched off and back on.

Are you sure you do not have the engine kill switched to off?

(I've scratched my head for an hour or so only to find I forgot I switched off the kill switch).

Engine kill switch checked (and rechecked) key cycled off and on multiple times. It's a shot in the dark but, I wonder is there another safety sensor I'm missing somewhere possibly since my rear brake bracket is broken and the switch thats mounted under it applying electrical power (lights and power to the brake maybe) isn't connected.

I also found digging through forums that my battery power has to be pretty well maxed (12.6), so it was around 11.? and since I don't currently have a trickle charger I took it to Auto Zone and left it over night; still no go.

Check the kickstand sensor, and clutch lever sensor (or at least try starting in neutral), check the wires for the kill switch (maybe they got damaged?) check the starter button as well (stretching here, but there's not a ton that will stop the bike from even cranking).

I'm going to take a guess at this, eliminate one variable, sans, I'm not working with a battery under 12.8v to feed 5v to the ECU. Not being there checking things; not knowing the rest of the missing parts; vital info not sent forward; I'm shooting in the dark. So I'm going to approach it like I'm going to turn the key on, watch the meters begin to sweep the needles all clean, meaning, zero them out to a 0mile-0tach setting.

The sensor tipped into some lock/no start scenario. The crank is looking for a count, has it saved in a volatile state. Turning the key of only saved the last volatile. In other words, it's like you set the radio to a news station. So every time you turn the key on, the station is saved in a 'volatile state.'

When you remove the battery cable, it no longer saves the last saved signal or news station. Thus, you never lose the ability to reprogram the station over again. This is a non-volatile state, meaning you can't wipe out the stations.

That means, you may have to accomplish [a flushing of] the volatile x's 2? Here is my thought. I'm on the assembly line, I install an ECU that has been sitting for a week, there is nothing left being saved once the test ECU was cleared for service. The sitting on the shelf is bleeding that volatile down by sitting. So say the tester shuts the ECU down by kicking the tip over sensor, the box shuts down, he yanks the box off the bench harness, stamps an OK on it.

You pulled the harness off the ECU is 1. Where is your sitting time? That still means you rather bench bleed it by 'grounding' each of the ECU's pins. This takes that week of any energy stored in the ECU a mute point. So that is Step 2, we use a test light, alligator clip a corner pin in the ECU. In that one section of pins, begin to touch every last pin to that test light's other ally clip or needle of the test light. This is going to suck any kind of saved volatile back to the non-volatile state.

As if you bought an ECU over the counter, she fires right off. It says no code flashing like yours. But there is a bad saved [volatile] number is my guess? That's how I would clear one kind of guess at the variable. That means I installed a new, cleaned ECU of any number saved. Now, the bike can start counting all clean and begin @ 0 again.

That tip-over switch is a tricky fella.... Once the angle meets the dangle.

NightMare & Hub,

Sorry for the delay, it maybe the weekend before I have a followup response on both of your suggestions.

Nightmare & Hub,

Problem solved; I started researching possible causes that you guys recommended. I first considered the kickstand, but since the bike went down on the right side I ruled it out but played with it anyway. Then I went to the engine kill switch because the handlebar on the right side now has a little play in it so I consider that might be the problem. I removed the engine kill switch found no issues with it, but after reinstalling the it I traced all the wiring from the kill switch and noticed a connector that wasn't fully seated. I re-attached it, turn the key and heard what I assume is the fuel pump relay or the fuel pump itself engage and I said "I think I got"! She fired right up no problem.

I'm glad to get it started but I must say I will miss "Daytona bike week" this year I haven't purchased all the faring pieces yet.

Laid my bike down tore up the center and right side...

Love the hindsight. Kill is hooked up to the fuel pump. Whatever you found was right switch related. Last memory saved was the tip-over sensor and that number. Upright, this sends another number = Should start. Since you found something loose as in connector, the kill is pined so that should have broken off? If not, where is the switch being damaged? And then...

...

I removed the engine kill switch found no issues with it, but after reinstalling the it I traced all the wiring from the kill switch and noticed a connector that wasn't fully seated

Weird how it took a crash to dislodge the connectors with that force, but not thru all that vibration since you owned the bike new or used? That means someone was in there at one time? Factory is getting sloppy? Where was that built?