Side Stand removal and Lube

The side stand is positioned directly below the countershaft sprocket which is always spinning off lube that runs down onto the pivot joint of the side stand. The side stand is is basically self-lubed as long as you take the trouble to lube the drive chain. Still, the service manual suggests lubing the side stand pivot joint. It is a good idea to remove the side stand every year and clean and lube the pivot.

Tools:
Rear stand
rags
pliers
protective goggles
kerosene
3/8” drive ratchet
17mm socket
17mm open end wrench
axle grease or similar lubricant
white lithium grease
medium strength Locktight

1. Lift the bike on a rear stand.

2. Wear eye protective goggles. With the leg in the upright position, pull the spring forward and over the top pin on the stand leg. Cover the spring with a piece of cloth to prevent damage to the finish of the spring. Remove the plastic tube and clean dirt from the coils of the spring. Replace the plastic tube to the spring.

3. Use a 17mm socket and a 3/8” drive ratchet to loosen the pivot pin of the side stand. The nut on the back of the side stand bracket should catch after a half turn or less. Back the pin out part way then tighten it slightly until the nut on the opposite side is free. Remove the nut and then continue to remove the pin and the stand leg.

4. Use a rag and kerosene to clean the grime from the pivot areas on the stand leg and the side stand bracket. Use a high temperature petroleum grease or white lithium grease to lube the pivot on the front and back surfaces. Lube the inner surfaces of the fork on the side stand safety switch, also.

5. Apply white lithium grease to the pivot pin.

Apply medium strength Locktight to the threads of the pivot pin.

6 . install the side stand leg to the side stand bracket engauging the pin in the fork of the side stand safety switch. Insert the pin through the pivot holes in the stand leg and the side stand bracket. Thread the pin through until aproximately 3-4 milimeters of threads protrude on the inside pivot of the stand leg. Thread the pin locknut onto the pin threads. Tighten the pin using a 17mm socket and 3/8” drive ratchet. The OEM pivot pin is to be torqued to 32 ft lbs.

I replaced the OEM sidestand with an after market stand made of billet. I did not torque the pin because the aftermarket stand is made of a much softer metal. I tightened the pin into the threads of the inside of the leg pivot. The locktight and the lock nut should be enough to keep the pin from coming loose.

7. Use a 17mm open end wrench to draw up tight against the inside surface of the
pivot.

The side stand safety switch fork interferes with the normal fitting of an open end wrench to the lock nut. I was able to tighten the the lock nut by placing the wrench on the nut with the handle parallel to the bolt (rather than perpendicular as is shown in the photo above). I turned the wrench by placing a screwdriver through the closed end side and levering the wrench to turn the nut.

Adjust the height of the side stand. My stand required a 4mm allen wrench. I used a bit of medium strength Locktight to keep the set screw in place.

8. Wear safety goggles. Install the spring using the same technique as was used to remove it.

9. Spray a few drops of WD-40 onto the coil to prevent rust from moisture that may get trapped inside of the tube.

Weight Difference Between OEM and Aftermarket Side Stand