Romans, just looking at my latest map number10...

Send me your maps I will study. Do not except trims. I need to see what your TPS is doing.

Replied, after I sent you a note last night I read through loads of posts to find this one, I knew I had read it before, and then you fired it up again here, thanks you have posted some great info!
I have also managed to sort a silencer for now, I have ordered some silencer parts from one of our suppliers to make my own, its ridiculous what they charge for complete exhausts compared to what you can buy them for,anyway I have a modified R1 aftermarket for now. (not so pretty but will suffice for now.But it will keep the PC plod away!(police)
So back to the map.........what do you think

So back to the map.........what do you think

When I made the map you are now running I had the TRE006A installed. Hence the Zero column #'s. This was in effort to smooth out the bottom end and remove the decell back fire. TRE is a 100% fix

I have just re installed the TRE and am using that same map to build upon.

What I need to see is your recommended Fuel Trim #'s. This will tell me if you need to close or open your rising rate Reg. It's important that your fuel rate rises as fast as mine did or map will not be in sink ???? make sense ? Remember YOU Must make sure your AFR #'s are in the safe zone the entire time.

Now, enable cell tracer in the power commander software and mark out all throttle positions.

What I mean by this, is you need to run your bike TPS at 20%, then get the logged info from trims, 40% get logged info from trims 60% get logged info,,,, Make sense ? Important you do this in all rows. When you have done this numerous times this map becomes your made by you for your elevation. Will be sweet.

ROFL, pick a long road for the 100% column, Weeeeee Hot pavement is also important as bike will break traction when you are at full boost. Pulls hard.

Bottom end is a night mare. I now know why most map builders don't spend much time here,,,,it's tough. Subject on it's own.

Another important note ADD and Minus fuel #'s in the PC software. Start off with -3 and plus 15. You do Not want to minus much fuel from that map.

Each run tells a story in AFR and is key to make a perfect map for where you live. If you are already close this is good news.

Play safe. Cheers

Grin use Good Fuel

running on 98 UK spec Ron/mon, there is 102 and 103 but not so easy to get to.
Will do some runs and send it to you in a couple of days
Cheers

The boss has got me house painting today!

Romans, I managed to get out on the bike today to work its about 20 miles each way. I sent you an email.
I lost some fuel pressure on the way back ,went from 42psi to about 39psi. not much but enough for me to see the afr rise to nearly 15 when on light throttle at about 3k rpm. I had just been doing some full throttle 100mph runs
so just caught it!
Ihad read your post and saw your pump..........Well you have to be sure so I pulled my pump out and it was not the same but strangely this is what I found.....pic attatched

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Cleaned the filter out reassembled all and ran the pump, and it was straight back to 42psi....a pain to take out but dam worth the agro!

Anyway sent you another map, gonnamark the throttle to get % closer on tps ......and that backfire is starting to iritate me!
Grin

Cleaned the filter out reassembled all and ran the pump, and it was straight back to 42psi....a pain to take out but dam worth the agro!

Grin, not looking would have always been in the back of your mind.

My fuel pressure always dropped when hot engine heated fuel so do not be alarmed when it happens again. But if drops 4lbs squeeze hose, watch to see if pressure bleeds. Then you have what I have.

Romans, Wonder if you can clarify for me.
I went out today on the bike and did about 300 miles. alot of motorway and much of it steady crusing but some of it was a hard blast!
Its staggering how fast these things can accelerate for a bike which can pussy foot around at slow speed.(Im sure a quick shift would help the overall smooth transition upshifting......)

So if you remember you posted:

If you go to wide open throttle then to 80% 60 % 40 % to all TPS positions in a taller gear this will slow down your RPM climb rate and you can open the Eyes of the sensor.

But, if you touch the throttle just once on the RPM wind down the readings you have just made will be changed and all you have just made is lost. Make sense ? I have hundreds of tests to prove

During my ride I switched on the autotune and came back with a heap of changes + and - and it seems its changing all that seemed to be fairly good that was previously accepted.
My feeling is now I need to go out and do many short runs accepting changes if all is ok after each run.

Whilst doing the runs holding the bike back to a degree whereby the o2 sensor works. For it to get good readings,it accelerates so quickly I would suggest it cant get good readings.(even draging the brakes.....and I dont like to do that!)
Ive probably been in 4th gear doing these runs, do you reckon to do it 5th or 6th? I think I might also go to one of the airfields around here and get some clean runs in.
How long do you think you are holding the throttle at the different percentages?
Do you for example go to 5000rpm , go full throttle and then reduced throttle openings at the 5000rpms
Then move on to 5250rpm and do the same again to all sites, etc?
Do you find these figures change much doing the runs again?
Or how have you been doing it.

Regards from a frustrated Grin

Ive probably been in 4th gear doing these runs, do you reckon to do it 5th or 6th?

6th

How long do you think you are holding the throttle at the different percentages?

WOT at 3000 RPM and let her roll to 10,500. Face in AFR gauge. Up hill works best,,if possible.

How long do you think you are holding the throttle at the different percentages?

As long as it takes to rev up to 10,500. Then move to 80% and do a run. Then do a run at 60% and so on. Rush to lap top and save trim. Pretend your on a Dyno?????

Do you for example go to 5000rpm , go full throttle and then reduced throttle

Never Reduce or map will change

Do you find these figures change much doing the runs again?
Or how have you been doing it.

Bottom off boost is always Changing. When you have good AFR #'s Turn OFF Auto tune in those areas in your AFR table. Below 3500.

What is your fuel pressure ?

Thanks Romans
Im currently running at 42psi which is sweeping around to about 75psi at 6psi of boost. I thought the fueling was about ok around bottom end,just a couple of very slight hesitations to overcome, do you think we can improve on it? It would be good to keep some economy....:)
What method do you set the throttle with at the different % openings,have you marked the throttle and housing?

I realised today that we have a test track at one of our other premises where Im working for the next few days so Im going to ask if I can use it. Its based on an old military airfield from ww2 I think it may be long enough. Ill know tomorrow if I can use it and if its ok for the purpose.
Whilst slowing down do i understand correctly that you do not touch the throttle?.......leave it shut!...?
AND is it best to clutch in where the backfire area might occur, to keep it clean?
Finally during slow down how soon can you switch off the autotune, the earliest opportunity to get a good reading....presumably its only during the wot period you need the readings?

cheers Grin

* Last updated by: grin14 on 7/16/2012 @ 2:59 PM *

,just a couple of very slight hesitations to overcome, do you think we can improve on

Yes, work in progress. When you have it you must turn off Auto Tune in that area or,,,,,.

What method do you set the throttle with at the different % openings,have you marked the throttle and housing?

Small lap top is the best, or mark it out ,,,,, you should call me. Save lots of time. Maybe a motor lol

Yes okwillcall you, may have to wait until the weekend what with time difference and the hours I am working at the moment whilst testing.
Ill check the time difference and let you know when
Cheers
Grin