Here's what I'm saying.
Crank - needs a relation to cam sensor to ECU.
TPS - is in relation to sub sensor and ECU.
WTS - what and what are tired-in to the water temp sensor?
That's watt I'm saying.
Now, see how the accidental click to gear was the gauge stopped popping the code?
See how the clutch lever pulled in >>> stopped the shutter?
See how that flip-flopped was to trigger something in the ECU. See how it goes back to the ECU? See how all that clutch lever pulling before the occurrence, not the clutch switch, not the temp switch? Temp switch is not on the blink until??
WTS spikes but goes out is the [phantom]-code triggered. But to replace the water temp sensor, let alone take a reading, you'd have to find the manual, the color wire, the prong out of the ECU, the other wire loop, now, touch those two with an ohm meter and match readings against the book. Not good however. Look at the resistance you'll add from WTS connector to ECU harness and up to the ECU connector. That, or find a way to touch the 2 prongs of the WTS, or is it 3 prongs?
Water temp is hard to get at. Do I want to mimic my problem? I would think to remove the temp connector off the unit, set the code and now duplicate it on the road ride.
Also when around 10,000 rpms in 5th and 6th gears she stuttered.
See how that temp begins to rise at that higher rpm and we have problems? So if 3 wires out, the first goes to the ECU, next to a ground, the other to the dash, but someone else is used to run that temp wire to the dash.
So back to the only guy showing it's teeth is the WTS. The 10k rpm making heat, the sensor sorta in range and out of range, why no temp spike at the dash when that happens? So again, that disconnect is going to make some strange heat, feel the panels or the hot air coming out, or this same bucking is going to mimic the symptom and maybe you lucked out it's a temp sensor? And the process to do that is drop the nose in hot water, read the range out of the prongs, and that's before you buy a water temp sensor is drain the coolant so pulling the sensor out is less messy, unless you swap parts fast, top off the loss during the swap.
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time