Taking my rear wheel off today which I have never done, but im not too worried about that procedure. I am a little worried about getting my chain and alignment back in specs. You guys got any tips to make this easier? Thanks!

Thanks Hub! So your saying I should get the chain in specs with the bike back on the ground? All I am using is a wheel stand so its either in the air or on the ground. Thank you for your time!

Well I just took my first motorcycle wheel off. I sweated for nothing. Hope its not too bad going back on tomorrow. Might have to get my wonderful wife to hold the brake in place while I juggle the chain and axle in place.

It can be a bit tricky getting the rear brake calliper back in. Patients is the only way. Last couple times I took rear wheel off, I discovered it is not necessary to touch the chain adjusters. Believe all I did was pull axle out, roll the wheel forward until it hits the inside of the swing arm. then there is plenty of slack to take the chain off without loosening the adjusters. Change your tire, put the wheel back in tight against the adjusters and the alignment and tension is unchanged.

Just be careful to maintain tension backward so that the chain doesn't roll off the front sprocket while you remove from back sprocket. Goes for taking off and putting back on.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/23/2010 @ 10:13 PM *

Thanks for the details Hub! Got her back on and everything is looking good. I will remember that Rook because I have been out there measuring for 15 minutes trying to get everything back in alignment. I really appreciate the help guys!

^^ I measured also when tightening the chain the first few times.
It is awfully hard to find a good mark to measure from and then who's to say the mark you use is the sam on both sides? At some point I think I just adjusted each side to the same mark on the swingarm and then counted the same number of 360 degerees turns on each side. You can mark a flat with a shapie and use that to indicate the amount of turn on each side to get the chain to a good tension. Works well when you are half way between marks.

I have never had unusual sprocket ware that might have been caused by misalignment of rear wheel. I always am very particular about wrenching. Being a perfectionist is much better than being a half-assist but I would think you would have to have that wheel in there way off the marks before it would cause any damage.

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/24/2010 @ 7:26 PM *

If you measure it's best to measure the distance from the axle to the swingarm bolt. That should be the same distance on both sides.

Well I measured and adjusted at least 10 times and then ended up getting both sets of hash marks equal which I know you cant trust those, but I measured and got the same measurements so I must have got lucky. As for the chain tension I threw a rag in my sprocket and torqued the axle nut, but the chain was a little looser after tightening so I readjusted and same thing...I torqued the axle nut and got a bit more slop in the chain. It looks a tad loose eyeballing it, but I rode it about 50 miles today which was so nice because I have been having withdrawals since the nail in the tire and it rode and tracked great. I tried listening to the chain the best I could, but couldnt hear anything and when getting on the throttle and letting off the throttle I felt no hesitation, but I am going out again to pay attention to how she shifts. I push up on the chain with very little pressure and its almost touching swimgarm, but if I push at all it has no problem touching. Is the top of the chain suppose to be touching the top on that guide? I THINK its ok though.

"Well I measured and adjusted at least 10 times and then ended up getting both sets of hash marks equal which I know you cant trust those, but I measured and got the same measurements so I must have got lucky".....ahemm...."I KNOW you CAN'T trust those".....are your side measurements EQUAL?Apparently you got one of the bikes that actually ARE correct!Just being ironic...that's all.WHO has told you "you can't trust the swingarm hash marks"?If I read correctly,our manuals say to align using the hash marks.I doubt Kawasaki would go to all the trouble designing a badazz bike like the 14,then get the hash marks WRONG...so they could what?...have a huge lawsuit from someone who got crippled by a drive chain flying off the sprocket and locking the rear wheel?Me No Think So.Maybe it's just me...but I've NEVER EVER had a Kawasaki late model bike that had misaligned hash marks.You just have to eyeball it correctly,that's all.Heathun's got it right.OR...you look through the axle,when you can see through the axle,then that's how ya set the one side mark...looking through the axle.Go to the other side...do the same thing...set the mark looking through the axle.They will BOTH be equal.Guaranteed(at least mine were).UNLESS...your swingarm has damage or slop at the pivot point...which is REALLY unlikely.But your wheel would still be "aligned" with the swingarm. Just use a rear stand,that's all(maybe I've been doing it wrong all these wheel changes?)There IS a small tidbit in alignment...."kick the wheel forward" before making the final adjustment.Just hold yer bike when ya do. Service Manual...pg 2-31.It's gonna be hard to "kick the wheel forward" if she's on her sidestand...but not impossible.(I think Kawi's assuming the mechanic is gonna be doing this work,so they would naturally have er up on a vertical stand of some sort)."To keep the chain and wheel aligned,the notch[E]on the RIGHT wheel alignment indicator[F]should align with the SAME swingarm mark or position[G]that the LEFT indicator notch aligns with".

There's a one liner in there saying to"OR" use an alternative means of measuring the distances...so me thinks the use of the swingarm hash marks is Kawi's preferred method.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/25/2010 @ 4:19 PM *

Thanks Blue! My alignment has stayed true after I got it right with the hash marks, but its the chain thats aggravated me a little because it loosens a little after I torque the axle. I think I will tighten the chain a hair over and then maybe it will have the slack I want after I tq the axle again. I havent got a rear stand yet, but im shopping since im new to sport bikes. Thanks for your time man!

* Last updated by: motorpycho on 7/25/2010 @ 4:45 PM *

Okay....your chain won't loosen IF you 1)set the adjusters AFTER KICKING THE WHEEL FORWARD into the adjuster bolts.Loosen the axle nut.(you are doing this on a rear stand,yes?)Kick wheel forward firmly.It should now be against the adjuster bolts.Make sure it is.Now adjust chain slack.Make sure BOTH sides are equal on the hash marks.Check chain slack.If good,and both sides are equally lined up on the hash marks,then tighten axle nut.The wheel CAN'T move forward if she's securely against the adjusters.The key is getting the wheel fully forward against those.Once there,it can't go anywhere.You should be using the adjusters to force the wheel REARWARD somewhat,just enough to have tension on the bolts there and line the block mark up to the hash mark.If you do it like that,it will stay adjusted correctly.If you try to get it aligned NOT using the force of the adjuster bolts against the block,it will not work right.Your wheel will move as you tighten the axle nut.In other words...use the adjusters to move the wheel BACKWARDS to the alignment mark,not pushing FORWARD by hand or foot to line the wheel up.

Be aware...when you go to tighten the adjuster bolt lock nuts,that the main adjuster bolt is going to want to turn as well.Use TWO wrenches on there to tighten the lock nut and hold the adjuster bolt in place.THEN completely tighten down the axle nut and reinstall cotter pin.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/25/2010 @ 5:25 PM *

Thanks blue! I used the adjusters to push it back, but I never tried bumping the wheel against the blocks. Thanks for pointing that out because I bet thats what I did wrong. Your right I saw the adjuster turning when I was tightening the lock nut. I unfortunately havent purchased a rear stand yet, but im shopping. Thank you for all the advice!

Well,glad we could help.You can get away without the rear stand if you follow those adjusting steps.As long as yer pushing rearward on the wheel blocks with the adjusters,it'll force the wheel to where it needs to sit.I suppose you could loosen the adjusters,axle nut,then roll er backwards a tad and hit the rear brake sharply.That would probably get the wheel up against the blocks as well.Then just readjust backwards as I mentioned.Get enough backwards roll momentum with the bike's weight,then lock the rear,and that should be good.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/27/2010 @ 3:37 AM *

You all have been a great help! I really appreciate this forum and all the help you guys have given!

I push up on the chain with very little pressure and its almost touching swimgarm, but if I push at all it has no problem touching. Is the top of the chain suppose to be touching the top on that guide?

I estimate ~6 lbs of force pulling down on the center of the bottom run of chain to measure half of the chain slack. Using the same amount of force to lift the chain causes it to touch the underside of the swingarm preventing a measurement to be taken as you have discovered. My solution is to measure the upward half of the chain slack applying equal force to the top run. Measure it at the center just as you did the bottom run. The belly pan makes a great support to set the end of a 15" steel rule against. The other end of the rule rests against the undertail mudflap underneath that square section of frame tubing on the tail. You will be able to take measurements of the top run chain slack and the bottom run chain at this location as it aligns the rule to just about center 'tween front and rear sprockets.

Good luck. what a PITA to keep adjusting chain over and over. I did that also the first couple times I tightened the chain. As the chain gets worn in, it will stop stretching and you will not need to adjust it as often. I have not adjusted mine in at least 8000 miles. Too bad I will be replacing it soon.

its the chain thats aggravated me a little because it loosens a little after I torque the axle.

Regarding the axle nut--yup, it does have an effect on your adjustment. I was just talking to Kruz about this tonight. He concurs. For me, tightening my axle nut seems to cause my chain adjustment to be tighter. All you can do is estimate and compensate. You are definitely better off with being looser than tighter. Overtight can be a little hard on the countershaft bearings and it will stretch your chain prematurely. Probably hard on your sprockets and chain O-rings too. ahahhahaha--don't sweat it too much as long you have your chain adjusted within reason. You will learn the best way to maximize the service limits of all these parts like the rest of us are. I am pretty sure I overtightened my chain the first time or two and it has lasted me 20,0000 miles along with the sprockets which seem to be in great shape.

Here's a stand thread.

http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=DEFABC13-1372-66AE-3B8E6FE7D370ACDB&page=1

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/27/2010 @ 11:44 PM *

Okay...I REALLY want to understand this.With the adjusters firmly against the adjuster block,wheel completely forward and adjusters secure HOW does the axle move when tightening?IF you tighten the axle nut going from the 12 o'clock position and turning clockwise,WHERE is the wheel going to move?Ahemmmm....against the adjuster,yes?And HOW is the adjuster going to allow the wheel to come forward? I would be more inclined to think that when returning your bike to it's sidestand(assuming you had it on a rear stand to do this)then the wheel itself has not moved at all...it's the suspension that has settled into a slightly different spot.

This is why you adjust going backwards and pushing the wheel on both sides equally with the adjuster bolts to where it's supposed to be at.If you get it too tight,then you repeat the loosening of the adjuster bolts,kick wheel forward against the blocks,and re-adjust back to where it needs to be by pushing the wheel backwards.This always works for me.The repositioning of the suspension is what is creating the chain to be looser or tighter,if everything else is correct.

And I LOVE my forward handle pit bull.She's(for me)an easy quick solid lift once you get the hang of lining up the spools by lifting and watching on the right side at the fork/spool contact over the seat.It's no big deal really.You're holding the left handlebar.Once you see it in the spool,as long as you don't release the pressure on the handle,she's gonna go right in and up.You get the left spool hooked in to the fork.Lean over the seat,stand your bike up to just about vertical,push down as you line up the right fork on the spool,and then go for it.Once in the forks,she's solid as a rock.To get yer leverage easier(I had to):Cut off the tip of the handle about an inch back,and use a cheater bar in there about two feet long,maybe a bit less.Something stout so it won't snap or fold when lifting.That way you can keep your kickstand down when working on your bike,so in case anything causes it to collapse to the left,yer stand is right there to catch it.Besides,you need to be able to get past your kickstand when removing and installing the lower belly pan bodywork.You can't do that with the kickstand down.I must say...you do have to manipulate the fork configuration somewhat to be able to do what they claim on their site.It's not just assemble and she works perfect.But once you do get it set up right,it's a dream to use.You're able to have control over your bike by holding it,rather than standing behind it.And the cheater bar makes lifting as if she only weighed a hundred pounds.Very nice.

When lowering,hold the left handlebar,grab the stand handle with your right hand,begin to lower your bike.As she comes down and contacts the ground at the rear,you simultaneously lift the handle completely vertical and pull the stand towards you under the rear tire,while maintaining back force on the bike via the left handlebar.Easy Peasy.Just have to get used to doing the movements as one deal.IF you forget to lower your stand(God Forbid)...you are right there to catch your baby before she hits the deck..I know....I did it.Only once.That's all it took to remember that .

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/28/2010 @ 1:46 AM *

With the adjusters firmly against the adjuster block,wheel completely forward and adjusters secure HOW does the axle move when tightening?IF you tighten the axle nut going from the 12 o'clock position and turning clockwise,WHERE is the wheel going to move?

The only thing I can think of is that the force of torqueing, being done on one side only, causes the axle to cock a tiny bit in the swingarm slots. The side you turn on is pushing against the block and the adjustment remains as set on that side. The other side is forced back a little bit if you are pushing down to tighten the axle nut. I imagine if you lift to torque instead, that would force the blocks against the adjusters on both sides. Most will choose to push down to torque because that allows the use of their weight. It only takes a tiny amount of movement to make a noticeable change in the chain tension.

Some things aren't worth pondering. You just know what the effect is and deal with that.

Pit Bull forward handle I use all the time because it is plain unuseable for the big heavy busa with low positioned spools. I almost dropped that bike on the forward handle so I just went with the superior stand which is the Heindl. The PB forward handle will work for the 14 but it is no safer than a rear handle IMHO. Put a block of wood under the side stand and lift away--there will be superior leverage. Forward handle is too close to vertical == no leverage. Very hard to lift a 14 with stock pipes, impossible to lift a busa. Heindl is safest IMO. Works for everything.

One more--if you like a 55 height tire, that will wedge against that crossbar on the forward handle PB. You need to raise the lift forks on the PB forward handle to free up more space but that also makes it harder to lift with.

It's a good stand but not up to the expectations I had for Pit Bull. Strong but not well designed from a functional standpoint --IMO.

http://www.zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=8AA74779-D56B-84E2-1918A7360E8381E9

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/28/2010 @ 8:51 AM *

Ya...it will hit with a 55.To get past that,you position the handle extension out some so it rests on a block there when lowered(or use a socket on an large wrench).This will keep the stand from fully moving rearward just enough to clear the tire height,and still be secure from rolling forward.

Good vid scott...the little trick with the pin in the wheel is kinda cool...I'll have to try that some time.

It will clear the kickstand as advertised,but the fork plates have to be positioned(when assembling)off center just a bit.That's what I meant when I said "some fork manipulation" is required to get it assembled to the working configuration. I turn the socket end down...that hits first,stopping the stand from moving all the way back.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 7/28/2010 @ 10:00 AM *

BTW, just tightened chain on the busa for the first time today. The axle nut has NO cotter pin or nuthin' to stop it from falling off. ONLY 72 ' lbs of torque. I think I will be considering drilling a safety hole and dropping in a linchpin.

??????????pretty thoughtful Suzuki is.

Think about this Rook.

Kawi recommends adjusting the chain slack while bike is on side stand.

If you adjust the chain slack while the bike is on a rear stand you have to adjust with a little more slack. I adjust mine on a rear stand too.

If you don't you'll have to little slack and could ultimately affect the rear travel by reducing it.

??????????pretty thoughtful Suzuki is.

If you adjust the chain slack while the bike is on a rear stand you have to adjust with a little more slack.

Aha! --because part of the weight of the bike is taken off the suspensions by the sidestand. With a rear stand, the weight is supported by the suspensions (front and rear) only so the chain is tighter. Thus, needs a bit more slack for correct tension.

Here's a tip Hub gave me a couple years ago. If you really want to find the perfect tension for your drive train, wrap a strap with a ratchet tensioner over the seat and hook to the floor. Compress the rear suspension as far as you can. Ratchet it the rest of the way until the shock is fully compressed. That is the farthest your frame will ever flex and the most tension your chain will ever have. You can safely adjust the chain to 0" slack and when the rear suspension is opened back up, it will be as tight as it can safely be set and still be safe from stretching/snapping if you ever go the full travel of the rear suspension.

Never tried it. Not sure I would want to hold my rear suspension at max compression for an extended period of time but it would be interesting to find out how tight is tight really supposed to be.