If Rook wants to go thru chain and sprocket with a sprocket cover cavity that dry and clean... We ready for 90w gear oil yet, Rook? I don't want to get started on the WDorks yet.

I've been using a high temp lithium axle grease in the cold weather for the last few years. My thinking is that it is pliable at low temps as well as high so it always is lubing unlike wax which is fairly solid at low temps. Drop temp exceeds 500° F. I NEVER see a drop of this stuff drip outa anywhere when the bike gets hot. It just sticks wherever it flings and stays there til you scoop it out one day. That is the only problem with it, it will fling off, more because it is hard to apply in a light film. The gobs between the rollers end up flying out pretty quick and you have a little mess that won't melt away no matter how hot the engine gets. I'll have to check into the 90 gear oil. sounds like that is more like a viscous liquid that could be applied reasonably thin.

What really IS the advantage(if there is one)to using the oiling deal on these chains.The Chain Wax heats up as you ride...allowing it to flow.And it really doesn't fling off...I can tell you that.So pretty much it's always lubing the seals and such.What do YOU think?

As mentioned above in my response to Hub's comment about the gear oil, I don't think the wax lubes when it is much lower than 50 F. As you observed, the wax doesn't flow until it gets pretty warm.

When it gets 'built up'..it drips(slightly)from that guard and ends up on the floor...but doesn't interfere with anything.Your thoughts?

I don't have a problem with flung lube melting off. I'd rather that than it stick up under the sprocket cover. It's not hard to clean off the bike.

I like wax because it doesn't fling much. I think half the reason it stays on the chain is that it is applied in a thin film. If you apply it profusely, then it will fling off like grease does.

Gear or grease, that wipes right off and can move/fling when in heat or due to centrifugal force.

Yep, petroleum is always liquid even in the cold. It might take hours but it should seep into cracks even at low temp. Oil more so than grease. also, it should melt away if it flings unless it's low temp like the stuff I've been using.

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/18/2014 @ 4:05 PM *

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One thing that has to taken in to account is these are O-ring and X-ring chains, the chain bushing is more or less sealed by the rings to retain lube in the bushing. When you lube a sealed chain you are lubing the side plates and not the bushings, rings keep stuff out too. Better IMHO to use a true chain lube which won't fling off and will keep the plates lubed. Once the chain heats up from riding any kind of straight petroleum based lube is going to come off. ANY kind of lube is better than none!

Washing a ring chain with a high pressure hose is the WORST thing you can do, pressure pushes water past the rings and then the rings keep it in and good-bye chain, quickly!!!

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I always thought...IF the rings there are sealing the links with the factory lube...and it can't come out unless they're wearing out...trying to force grease or anything in there into the roller tubes is kinda...useless?Some swear it gets past those rings and into those link rollers.I would say...IF it was able to do that...then surely you would see factory lube(grey or red)appearing on the inside of the plates and such.If it's not doing that...it's sealed(meaning the factory lube is fine).The friction on the plates(inside)and the rings surface...that definitely needs something to help it.Am I wrong?Rollers impingement on those rings as well.

You are absolutely correct. Spray lube made specifically for ring chains not only lubricates the side plates it also has additives that lubricate and protect the rings from deterioration keeping the grease in and the crud out. Without the proper lube the rings tend to get brittle and crack over time like any other rubber material.

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