So I am putting back together my steering stem after doing the lube of the bearings. The service manual says to tighten the steering stem nut with the steering stem nut wrench (part # 57001-1100) to 55nm then back off then a final tightening to 25nm. My question is how the heck does kawi expect me to tighten to 55nm or 25nm without a torque wrench. Clearly this isnt the type of wrench that measure torque. But then again kawi told me to go waste $400 on a scissor jack that is clearly useless for my 14. in a lot of ways its a poorly written service manual. If anyone can help that would be great! Thx
Jack

So you can't tighten to the specified torque because why? Go buy yourself a torque wrench wich is a must in every tool box. If it didn't have nm settings and only ft-lb, the math and convert it.

55 nm is 40.56 ft-lb or round up to 41

25 nm is 18.44 ft-lb or round up to 19

I do have torque wrenches. 3 of them. But look up that part number I am talking about. How are you going to measure torque off that?

1. I slide my triple up the neck.
2. I spin the first lock ring all the way down till it stops.
3. I then tighten the lock ring as if thinking I do not want to crush the balls into the race.
4. I want that ever so slightly tight, but now I swing the triple lock to lock.
5. I want to see the bearings free to cause the triple to fall on the stopper by itself.
6. I see it bind like that, I have to remember my top crown is going to cause a torque over that bearing.
7. I then install my fork back up the lower stem and find my shadow mark or where it was before.
8. I now lock the [take the easiest path] stem pinch bolt on either the upper or lower crown.
9. I install the next fork tube up the stems and let this one float, no pinch to the fork.
10. I already positioned my lock tab in between the lock rings and see my bend tab is easy to access.
11. I spun my other ring on and tightened it, swung the steering stem from lock to lock no bind.
12. I have my legs ready so when I torque the top crown nut, I again, find the bind on the flip to lock.
13. I let my top crown slide down to the stem without bind of the forks being pinched, but float.
14. I torque down my one pinched leg. 22 foot is the lower stem pinchers, 15 foot are the top crown bolts.
15. I took my front axle, floated the one loose leg up and down until my axle is square to the forks.
16. I now pinch off my loose leg, recheck my axle float and thread spin all line up like butter.
17. I grab both lower legs, swing fore and aft and listen/feel for a knock. I hear a knock, or the steering hangs up tight from locks to lock, I return to step 1 and follow down to step 16 until no knock, no bind, no need for a book torque at the step lockers.

So there really is no way of torquing this nut to spec?

Yes... Grind a big socket with notches say about 6 points sticking down and the rest ground away, I have a homemade ring locker tool.

Book says and I paraphrase:

1. Torque the ring to 17ftlbs so the races are sent home, the races line up, no bind on the swing. Unload first lock ring.
2. Take the first ring lock and run it down by hand. Make sure it does not bind, knock, is smooth lock to lock.
3. By hand... line up the tab ring so the bend tab is easy access. Assemble the second locking ring so it is tight and lines up with the slots to the lock tab. Bend tabs just so it's in past the slots, not home it flat against the locker recess slots. This way, it's easier to repack again, less change of the tab breaking off going back and forth too many times.
4, Torque the top crown to 58ftlbs. Move crowns lock to lock to make sure no bind, no knock.

Read between the lines on page 14-8...There is no torque when assembled. There is torque when homing the new races checking for bind-wink-wink.