Does anyone know if the two bolts that fasten the passenger peg bracket to the frame are the same bolt as the two bolts just ahead of them on the frame?

The heads of the forward bolts are a bit more bulbous and perhaps thicker. I can't tell if the shanks are longer, have shoulder, different thread pitch, etc. The rear frame bolts are too tight to remove without heat so I thought I'd ask if anyone knew before I busted a nut taking one out.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/22/2013 @ 3:07 PM *

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Parts page it at bike bandit dot com. Look to see if they show dimension sizes between bolts and then you'll know.

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Same part number same parts is parts in other words.

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Ahhhhhhhhhhh11

Thanks Hub...

It has been a while since I have recieved your common sense answer to one of my ridiculously simple questions. Thanks once again, buddy.

We'll see what BB has to say. I am certain the head is very slightly different between the two bolts. I can see that. the important [part is the shank which we cannot see as of yet. But I shall check BB as you, in your wisdom have suggested, oh Hubmeister-nator.

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we have 9253A on the top rear frame bolt and 9253B on the bottom one. Must be a long and a short is my guess. The drawing looks like the top bolt is longer.

..aaaaaaand....we got a 92153G for both the pillion footrest bracket bolts.

92153 seems to be the part # for any socket cap screw. The battery box is also 92153, for instance.

Reason I am asking is because Ia m interested in replacing the OEM rear frame bolts with Ti steel bolts made for passenger footrests. They do not make bolts for the rear frame so I was hoping the foot peg bolts would work. I guess I am going to have to take the bolts out if I want to know for sure how well the footrest bolts might work. Braek out the soldering iron. Any other tips on how I might extract those rear frame bolts with their thread locking agent? The problem is that they are cap screws and those are horrible for putting a lot of force on. I'm afraid they will strip.

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I get a 1/2 drive breaker bar, size it down to 3/8 size allen socket and a 6mm (I believe) is the hex size. I use a short shaft hex, then I load/unload the bar. I never back off of the tension, plus I never push that hard to oval the hex.

So the hand is pushing at the elbow of the 1/2 drive so as not to pop out. The other hand is doing that up and down torsion until the bolt twists, shrinks away from the sealer and poof, the seal is broken, the hex begins to spin. A little 3/8th ratchet is not going to do it, sans you stick a pipe on the end of the handle and torsion away as if it was the 1/2 inch handle.

* Last updated by: Hub on 4/22/2013 @ 9:03 PM *

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I regularly use a hot air gun to warm the area, (as cloe to the bolt as possible) and dont use any kind of flame of course.
It should have the usual (kawasaki version of a Loctite 243) then you dont need to get it to hot,but the more the heat the easier, and then do as hub says.......
Grin

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yep, heat and Hub, you are right. I already discovered what happens with a regular length bit on a ratchet. That levering down wile turning the bolt forward is a strip-TEASE waiting to happen. A short bit will not get the risky lateral leverage that a long bit will get when you really lay into it.

nope, I didn't rip the hex out of the bolt yet but I saw it ready to happen. The bit was stuck wedged in there. I had to turn it backward to dislodge the bit from the screw hex. I am suer it will still come out but the locktight needs to be softened up and more careful force applied to some other kind of hex tool than what I was using. Perhaps if I grab a 6mm bit with a vise grips so I can turn real close to the screw head... and some hot, runny threads will help...

I need a soldering gun anyway. Off to Harbor Freight today.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/23/2013 @ 8:20 AM *

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This is where you hammer the hex head so the metal forms the hex tighter. Take just the hex socket, line up the hex to hex, tap the socket back into the hex of the bolt. I'm not saying to hammer flat the hex. I'm saying to hammer back some metal so the hex cannot reenter the bolt head. You do not want to hammer in metal into the hex in other words is less hex sitting deeper into the hex of the bold.

And if that 6mm is rounded from all the wrenching, better turn the hex around or buy a new tip so the wrench hex is flat on the sides or those hex's now are too round. Get it? See how it would oval out the hex head?

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I just had a look at those bolts and I see the bottom of the hex hole is not flat. There is a concavity to the bottom of the hex hole.

I'm not saying to hammer flat the hex. I'm saying to hammer back some metal so the hex cannot reenter the bolt head.

So, you are saying place the hex bit in the hole and tap the back of the socket with a hammer to push the bit in a hair deeper than it would go without tapping...do not tap the bit in all the way so you flatten out the bottom completely.

And if that 6mm is rounded from all the wrenching, better turn the hex around or buy a new tip so the wrench hex is flat on the sides or those hex's now are too round. Get it? See how it would oval out the hex head?

yep, looks like the bit is ok shape but i see the points are not as sharp down on the tip as they are up where the bit never touches the inside of bolt hex'. might as well get a new one.

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