The salvaged shit.

My mistake. 124.9 ohms at the meter. Edit: Don't get old.
The other; 125.1 ohms at the ECU.

The pin wires in white are at the back of the meter. The ohmmeter probe wires are alligator clipped to the safety wire out of the smaller blocks of 17-18. The beauty of this also is I don't have to worry which probe goes first as to what wire.

It's a resistor so direction swings like a restaurant kitchen door. A diode is the one way front door. Probe both ways to check for it showing a one direction flow, or it's burned out showing the same numbers like a resistor swapping probes.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/25/2021 @ 5:01 PM *

Hubster, it is no longer necessary to speculate in the abstract, we now have the answer, took all of 5 minutes to find once I had the seat off and could access the ECU per your prediction. Lettuce remember hind sight is always 20-20 as you've often said. We knew from yesterdays' pin walk at the meter abstract we had a CAN open loop.... as we've been speculating since the beginning, butt wear??? Lettuce look at the ECU harness gray/blue CAN wire now for the obvious answer. Next question, can I get that female socket and broken CAN bus wire out of the connector without special tools? Don't want to add insult to injury by damaging the socket. Is this CAN wire different from any other or is a standard solder splice repair with heat shrink OK? I'm looking at it and it needs to be a bench repair with that wire end out of the connector. Also look at the break in the wire end, clean as a whistle fracture, no broken strands.... butt Y???

If I didn't know better, I would have thought that wire was cut with a pair of dykes, very clean break....

Well, good job everyone that gave their inputs, especially Hubmeister, Now the repair needs to be done right so it will last. The good news is this could have turned out expensive and instead it's not going to take any $$$$, just time.

Those Packrats have sharp dyke like teeth

I have a set of connector pin rearward extraction tools somewhere but can't for the life of me remember where I stashed it and don't remember where I bought it. If I recall, they came in a set for four different size pins. O'Reilly's maybe or a specialty electronics distributor? I want to get the right tool to get that pin and broken wire out. Don't want to risk screwing up that connector and turn a quik fix into a nightmare.

Those Packrats have sharp dyke like teeth

Wow.Good job finding thatKruz.WoHoo!
IF it were me,I'd strip back that connector wire and add a bullet connector.Then a male end on the long wire.They don't come loose,tell ya that.Looks like you may have enough wire left on that input wire.HOWEVER...the connector might not be the best choice.Straight wire soldered in would be better I think.

Hi Grn, yea, I'm sitting back and studying this carefully for the best way to make the repair. I was able to get in and strip the end of the wire going back into the harness bundle but the one that's going into the connector is going to be a different kettle of fish, just too dam short a wire left and too close to the rest of the wire bundle. I can't get in there with my stripping tool, just not enough room without removing the wire and female socket from the connector and doing it on the bench. Sooooo, I've been on the internet all day trying to find an extractor tool locally that will pull the female socket and wire nub out. No luck so far and I live in the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex. You'd think somebody here would have tools to work on electronic connectors?? So next I call my local Kawasaki dealership and they tell me no repairs allowed, entire harness needs to be replaced since Kawasaki doesn't support removing the male pins or female sockets from any of their ECU harnesses, no tool available for this. Well, I ain't ready to give up quite yet, where there is a will there is a way and I'm not going to replace an expensive harness that would involve tearing the entire bike apart for one busted wire. Waiting to hear from the Hubinator, maybe he has some insight into coaxing that female socket out of the connector housing? I've pulled pins on many a Kawasaki connector before but never on an ECU. They may be one way, made to be installed and never extracted, I don't know.

Makes sense Blue/Gray. Thus, no water code but lettuce say the water/tach is Bl/Gr. Maybe the other line will expose the others? Okay, play A and B.

I'm with Grn on the solder flow. You know it's solid-with the crimp, not so much. So A; would be to straight razor what you can't get deep into on the connector side. Harness side, razor the harness tape so you slide the shrink farther from the heat. Looks like it's too fat are those blue crimps, and too short is the one wire.

On the B side, You have a good female pin already home in the connector. Yes, you can pull the, for a better word, the weatherpac rail clip. Get that clip out of the way, the rubber pac ring, chase the tang with the tool. If you have a jeweler's loop, you'll see the tang and more design. But here is the deal. You are going to make an attempt, maybe degrade the [female] clamping effect once all is said and done.

Which means, the female side is going to dropout at the pin to pin. Ask me how I know. So I rather avoid the work chasing the tool somewhere, the quick and dirty is the best alternative for pin end integrity at the connector is solder with a pencil soldering gun if you have one. Lots of work room, then the big guy who cares.

Even if you want to add wire, remember, I doubt that tiny of a repair; is not going to upset the node that far up the harness is the guess. Didn't throw off the resistance when I looped at the meter harness. Ah, nor the jumper wires being added. The study catching myself as I walk it.

Fun for me.

Congrats on the 5 minutes worth.

Lettuce wrap this up by saying, Kruz, did you go messing around with a map is crap, plug and play kind of, or never touched the ECU ever? I knew you had to jump in the lake with the rest of us. I'm just keeping an eye on Bullet and the Proof of the bike... which lost zip for dependability.

An [alleged] self inflicted wound by the owner.

Fucking-A... WATT-A-WOT-A-What A BIKE!

EDIT:
For Plan-B, pull the white-not used pin. Take the jeweler's loop and there you'll see the crib the pin lives in. Tang territory and where to poke... If you go the pin dropout route. You might have better luck, just some wiring leaning carving up a pin crib. Sleep on it.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/26/2021 @ 4:37 PM *

As long as its not a digital signal wire, which I doubt it is, solder or crimp either is fine. I would solder if you can

Okay, headbuttime, gather around. The can't/can be thinktank committee is now in session.

Can't be rats. Would have made it home if not more chomp for the nest. Buy it, Can it?
Can't be dikes. Would be an old set, not sharp, plus the curve of the plastic is surgically sharp and square. Nice set of cutting wires if so.
Can't be another cutting tool. Would be something like a razor, but would saw-like thru the copper, nick the other wires, rather than it be samurai looking now as it looks and that was the tool.
Can't be the last train wreck... you went out with and knows where the keys are?

Wait, don't repair yet. Start it up. Why? The can't be touching together, or the copper would smoke from the arcing of it still being partially connected. No change at the meter face, then it was separated the instant you saw it on the meter face. If say with seat off, it caught your eye and was separated before you touched it? Then dash reads the same water douche fragrance flashing red <<attach pun.

So you caught that at what day and what was the last thing you did back there? That was a right now clean break. No smoking arcing residue. She didn't come over for her cloths while you were not home, crossed one of her tampon strings and zipped it right thru?

Lettuce do the Can Be's:
Cotton string - It can be if you didn't get her off and you did.
No strings attached - Next love me-touch me website contact? Don't date'em so young that comes with strings attached.

Oh my, I bet you to it, Kruz. Funny, I'm going to leave it. I was thinking of betting Crude lunch, but he lives too far. I'm wondering if you figured it out, and beat you to it? No, you still beat me at hello. The ECU side is the easier test. Ohm at the ECU harness side and put the meter connector back on. Now it's real easy to pin both having the straight shot at the pins for the ECU, and a straight shot at the large connector. Mine is thru the harness from the meter connector. 124.9 ohm and match me. Not that you will odds wise, but if you pin-out 1 and 18 at the ECU, you'll catch what the ohm is at the meter. Without scrolling back, I'm 124.9 at the meter pins.

So now is the time to ohm the break at the wire and those exposed wires before solder. Then pin in connector. Read the number. Solder, pin both connectors and is the same number there? Then crude and I will get our answers.

Well, I guess it keeps walking. Good question, and I too have the same what if.
Crude: "As long as its not a digital signal wire..."
Me: Oops, it is. That's why we should match numbers now, and the soldered numbers as the second change if any. But I'm thinking it's non-magnetic like the copper, motherboard is a mess with so many mounds high and length, etc. I'm just an observer of E's why of traveling thru wire/resistor/capacitor/this hacksaw wave/this square wave, and those being up against that solder joint.

We'd have to lunch this, but say I try an analogy like 14.7 and heat. Yeah, we can heat it up to expand, but it closed on 14.7, the basic thermodynamic theory of heat expansion applies, back to 14.7. Took time to heat up. Grab time as the analogy swings over to a wave length.

Can't create or destroy a wave length, but if I say speed slows the wave, wave stretches thru the solder, out the solder's pond or how much time it took to Turkish taffy thru the puddle, return back to a wave length and continue thru the node up ahead, and since the wave did not change, it just swam a little thru the time it took. Same 14.7, same timed length wave length. Time to heat, time to move the same length this side of lighten speed, your honor, it was the tin/lead that gave me data thinking I was looking down at the speedo read. Oh, here it's coming up now. Shit that's fast. Can't tell on this thing.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/26/2021 @ 6:14 PM *

Hi Rudy and Hubinator, yes it is a digital signal wire, grey/blue is the CAN bus low voltage wire. Why no smoke at the broken strands? Possibly low voltage is the answer, 3.3 volts on that line if I remember correctly. The book gives us a range of 114 ohm to 126 ohm at the ECU so I don't think the repair is going to throw us out of range here. Even if this was an analog signal wire, I don't think it would be a noticeable change. No other broken wires visible, the light blue is the high voltage CAN, 5 or so volts if I recall. It is a loop so one broken wire shuts down all 6 meter functions as I see it. What was the advantage of a CAN bus system again, reliability? Horse feathers. OK, I'm planning on leaving the female socket in place and strip the wire bare with a razor blade and solder splice and heat shrink in place. I think I'll try rerouting that wire in the bundle for more strain relief. Hub, I did pull only the DFI connector when installing the PC3 15 years ago. I don't recall ever taking the main ECU connector out. Hopefully I'll be back on the road tomorrow. Cheers!

What was the advantage of a CAN bus system again, reliability?

A data separator. Separates all the signals like water from fuel so each does not bleed over each other when data like a code is set. Code the water when the fuel is the problem. Something like that.

Why no smoke at the broken strands? Possibly low voltage is the answer, 3.3 volts

Let the forensics continue. Totally local which is strange. I wouldn't bother with the tuck. Too many bikes with too many tucks from the factory. Once it's connected, who cares about tuck when flow does not care about the path tucked or not.

Good move with the female-pin untampered in the connector.

CAN Bus repair done, everything is working per book now. Getting in there to do the wrist splice was challenging but I think I got a good solid repair. 1/4" wrist splice solder joint with heat shrink and a ty-wrap to support the wire.

* Last updated by: Kruz on 10/27/2021 @ 9:34 AM *

Everything up and running per spec, fingers crossed it stays fixed. Praise the Lord, this didn't cost anything but a little time and effort.

Ah, the clamp gathering. I get it. Nice clean job looks like. No Popeye spinach arm for a resistance variable. Test ride only knows for sure.

The numbers gathering would have been just an exercise, but the meter to solder calls the node interference if any. I doubt it makes an .000000330?'s of a difference if the solder adds something like this many down the zeros?

Again, Meter calls the clean = No water blink, tach on the money. Two jobbers within spec says the meter. CAN Line integrity to complete the loop between the two jobbers = And the Meter Reads?

One down, one to go. That break is something else. We may never know. The one down for me is; the walk on the analog side, say hello to my new machine gun at light speed exits, I'm on the output wire and now up to the 'open.' The key for me was your [alleged coded flashing] test loop with a wet saddle back to the barn.

No water code. Then, the step back with the, 'you had it right the first time' with the deck of cards making no mistake the second try. And then out of nowhere, I swam out to Evergreen for my sneakers, and then to Maersk for my CBD gummy bears, came to shore, kept walking the steps burning out shoe after shoe, and eating gummy's as I walked the theory out.

The CURRENT Break Back Better Economy is going to make you a Triathlete soon. Just gotta find the containers with the bicycles in it. Got my swim in. Got me walk in. Pedals? Bueller?

Oh shit, I walked myself back a step. Break at the mode/trip. Maybe you couldn't call up a code either way? Or half a wire still inline could? Okay, say the mode is disabled so as not to bring a code in or retrieve a code button mode wise. Caught myself on the 'open.' I had the wet saddle home to tell me otherwise.

So for anyone following this, you are handcuffed back again to the 3-amigos aka: both handcuffs are the jobbers, the chain links are the wires and that scenario of the loop.

1. Connector not connected. Can't be.
2. Wire out of connector. Can't be.
3. Pertains more to the sensor rather than a bulb:
a. Signal out of range. Can't be. No ohms value breakouts from either side when middle numbers are found in the resistance values.
b. Short. Can't be. Think... blows a fuse. That's like rub thru the harness and the wire now touching a strand of wire to the rubbed away painted frame is bare metal. Something like that is a direct short-fuse blower; unit you wiggle the harness and no more fuse blowing. You moved a hot wire off of ground. Look for silver on the frame, tape off or magic mark about every 5" knowing where you finished looking at what sections that laid on the frame and all that.
c. Open. And now apply this amigo down to one thing, usually of the 3handcuffs. Same 3amigos of it running. Fuel-Spark-Compression. One usually fails for a no start. Same goes for the E-tree.

Same 3amigos for a bulb on the bike. But when diagnosing jobbers with ohm value readings, 3's sub-tree dropdowns of those 3sub-amigos say; no taillight bulb is out of some value. It just shows in the bulb; an x-ray inside a sensor, and that 'open' can too read, 'signal out of range' for the sensor-think.

Like I said, for some of you, you need to know some basics of FI before you open the book is how I see it. Only thing that book is good for is breakout values and torque number-sequences. I'm saying if you're well versed in the rest.

And if you can't understand the abstract, then going in, you can't understand the difference between analog and digital are those two steps of knowing most of that book as one complex, simplified animal is FI. I had Ivan at DFI 14 ears ago. That was some fun catching his act.

Signed,
NOLTT

Good job on that Kruz.Great to see ya up and rollin again
Now I'm wondering how that wire got clipped like that.It's a clean cut.Did you ever move that wiring before?Maybe unplug that connecetor?Possibly pinch that wire somehow and bend it without realizing it?Maybe it's brittle and snapped clean off?IDK.VERY STRANGE to me if it's never been moved or messed with.I'm not counting out a possible rat in there though.That wire is on the outmost part of that harness.Easy reach for a furry.They like the plastic coverings.Yet no sign of consuming bits of it.
And those other wires...they're right there easy reach also.Just weird.Any sort of heat source around there?The wires in that broken one look new.(undamaged)
I'm also looking at that one in your lower pic,the one right above it(blue wire).It seems to have almost a copy of the bend the broken wire had.You might want to check out the integrity of that one also.Any cracking of the insulation.It looks like it's slightly got a crease in the insulation where it bends into the connector.
15 year old harness.That's a long time.The wiring may be brittle.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/27/2021 @ 11:48 AM *

Ah, the clamp gathering. I get it. Nice clean job looks like. No Popeye spinach arm for a resistance variable. Test ride only knows for sure.

Popeye spinach arm....Hubster you're killin me..... I've see those types of solder repairs before, looks like a dirt dobber with diarrhea laid down a bead on the wire and then someone tried to cover it up with heat shrink, kinda like sweepin a pile of dirt under the rug before your in laws arrive. Heck, I've even been guilty of a few like that in my time.... Wasn't proud of it but they got the job done.

The numbers gathering would have been just an exercise, but the meter to solder calls the node interference if any. I doubt it makes an .000000330?'s of a difference if the solder adds something like this many down the zeros?

I don't think these CAN busses are as sensitive to repairs as everyone is thinking, everything seems to be working just fine, will ride it and let you know the final call but I suspect a digital signal doesn't care much about any small change in voltage or circuit resistance. Analog is a different story.

Grn, that is the great mystery here. Lettuce bee clear, I never touched that ECU since I first plugged in the Power Commander 3 back in December 2006, look at the dirt on it... almost 15 years ago and that was only the smaller DFI connector on the left side in the photo. The main connector was never touched, so it's anyone's guess as to watt happened here. Watts even more odd, if you Google ECU wires failing on a Kawasaki it comes back zip, like no one ever had a failure there. That's also what my local dealer said, never seen a fail there. I dunno, still scratching my head but you notice that busted CAN wire was kind of off by itself away from the main harness. That's how I found it and why I ty-wrapped it to the bundle for support after the fix. It was not under tension, in fact I shortened the wire by doing a 1/4" wrist splice and there is still extra wire there. I'll never know, what happened, I've ruled out sabotage and critters. No teeth marks on the wires and it's probably easier to get into a bank vault then my garage. I noticed that wire was very stiff for a multi strand product and was hard to bend. No, I think the wire just vibrated for 15 years and strain hardened the copper strands until they fractured.

Im too lazy to look at the circuit diagram but my point was as long as it some analog signal in to the analog to digital converter you would be fine splicing it. I assumed it was analog input and your work confirms.

Good job on the fix and running it to ground!

crude, I can see what you're saying, but let me give you the easier picture of the circuit system. The house wires at the telephone poles. The 3 wires off the poles to the house electrical box. The neutral line or ground, then both 110 lines into the house.

So the neutral wire was never down/disconnected/cut. But one of the 110v lines came down. So imagine comm low is 110v and comm line high as the other 110v house line. No necessarily ground was fixed but one of the 110v lines think.

The walk you took was not 'running it to 'ground' per say.

Just meant finding the root cause not chassis ground ffs.

Cruz, by the way what is the most probable root cause? My short list, besides the pacrat would be defect in the wire before or at initial assembly

Rudy I honestly have no idea, that ECU connector had never been touched since that bike was built at the factory in 2006. My only explanation was the CAN bus lead was a tad long and not supported by the rest of the bundle and vibration/strain hardening of the copper wire occurred. I did notice that wire was abnormally stiff and resisted bending, so it could be the copper wire itself could have been out of spec. Other than that I have no explanation and the fact that no one else on the forum ever had this problem is puzzling. The bike is 15 years old but annealed copper just doesn't harden up on it's own. Maybe Hubbish can postulate a cause?