hey everyone hope someone on here can help me. i have a 2006 zx14,all stock. its got 10xxx miles on it and all the service is up to date. upon start up the engine knocks horribly and continues to knock even when at operating temp.the knock is coming from between the #3 and #4 cylinders but it seems to be in the crankcase and not the top end. The knock raises with the RPM's so im thinking that its either with the crank or with the balancers. i have done a compression test on all the cylinders they were all within spec and all within 10%. i also did a leakdown test-all good 6-11% throughout all the cylinders. checked the valves and didnt have a single out of spec valve. im in the process of pulling the engine i have about 3 hours into the job right now but i know that many more are to come.if anyone has any input let me know. thanks

6 to 11% leak is junk. Remember, the key is the 10% window for leak or compression. One cylinder is off 10%, it is tear down time. 1 to 2% is ideal leak, you are race ready.
The knocking was more an updated piston to stop that break-in noise on the '06 models. I had that knock on my '06. Yes, keep tearing the bike down. At least you can swap the rings, or it may be a rod going, who knows, just speculation.

updated piston? and 2% leak down on a street engine? get real... the knock isnt a slight knock its so loud that u can hear it well over the exhaust and im willing to guess a rod as well. i will have the engine out tonight and the cases split by tomorrow

Let me ask you what percentages you've been looking at with a fresh engine, tight ring gap and all? 8 to 9% is tear-down-leak-down. I did not make the numbers up. These are generic numbers for compression readings and leak readings. Yes, there was an updated piston to stop a few nagging noises.

If the knock is that loud, good call! Geteardone!

* Last updated by: Hub on 12/4/2011 @ 12:53 PM *

ok u got me i didnt take that into perspective. i will let you know how everything looks once im inside. any tips as to splitting the cases would be great. i do have a service manual but as you more then likely know they dont give insider tips ha

I'd say that you had an oil starvation episode in the past. It's probably the #3 rod bearing. My 06 has 43000 on it and no bad noises at all.
Good luck and keep us posted.

Mad

The book pretty much shows you the steps to unload and reload the torque sequences. There may or may not be a time when you are stuck or when you get stumped. But if you do, start building another chessboard like Rook's valve shim procedures. Photos and things to be addressed in your thread here, will help us all be on the same page. More eyes you have helping, the easier the finished product.

ok so far so good as of right now i need i think im in need of a puller to pull they rotor off the crank other then that i will be splitting the cases as soon as i get that off it will be apart. im gonna post some pictures of the cylinder head....on #3 the valves look almost wet and the rest are dry looking...i dont know what that means since leak down was ok and compression was great. will post pics asap

my bad its the #2 cylinder

also if anyone notices....how carboned up my #1 cylinder is ???? does anyone know of a good/reputable place to buy rings/gaskets ect besides bike bandit?

Support your local dealer. Bring the part numbers with you. Think about this. Look at your exhaust valves and spark plug tips. They are burning tan and that says there is no carbon problem. Keep thinking now, every time you light off that cylinder, it is carbon blowing against the head and piston. There is no extra carbon if each cylinder is shooting about the same amount in the other cylinders. Right?

i will check with the dealers but we are in a recession so money is somewhat of an issue and im following you with the exhaust and spark plug tips but you are losing me with.... "every time you light off that cylinder, it is carbon blowing against the head and piston. There is no extra carbon if each cylinder is shooting about the same amount in the other cylinders. Right?" can you put this into standard terms not hubbish pretty please ha

i will check with the dealers but we are in a recession so money is somewhat of an issue and im following you with the exhaust and spark plug tips but you are losing me with.... "every time you light off that cylinder, it is carbon blowing against the head and piston. There is no extra carbon if each cylinder is shooting about the same amount in the other cylinders. Right?" can you put this into standard terms not hubbish pretty please ha

Science terms:

You cannot create or destroy matter. Are we on the same page about that?
You cannot make a way to have that gas enter, explode in a sealed area, then escape as if it wiped it's ass of carbon, your pistons are clean? No, it does not happen like that.
You have to see we are in a solid/liquid/gas state, but we are not freezing gas here.
You have what begins as a liquid, is now heated.
You begin to see this turned from liquid to a gas.
You begin to see that sea change you can't change a thing.
You have this infinity of solid is the carbon dated in your photo.
You have this fresh, 'I thought so,' thought; like orange juice fresh frozen...

OK, we freeze that in the brain now?

ok so your saying...theres nothing i can do about it cuz it is what it is. and yes pistons look good not excessive build up and not burnt looking

* Last updated by: daytonboy on 12/8/2011 @ 12:46 PM *

Correct. It is what it is. It is a hot paste. There is even more in the exhaust system. The head chamber is clean if you want to compare areas. Go scrape the inside of the exhaust header. Condense the drop of fuel. If it turns to a solid, is it not about as hot as a boiled solid? It layers every time a drop comes in [to be] vaporized.

But, that vaporization still means; 'you cannot create or destroy the drop.' You more cut and paste it like here is me period and now I hit send.

smart he is (yoda voice).....i need a puller for the rotor unless there is a shade tree/other way of getting it off without compromising it then its lickity split for the cases

Really? Are you saying that you tried to split the case and one side of the case half is stuck or hitting the rotor? Unless there is a bolt to remove to split the case you need to remove the rotor? Did you try splitting the case yet or are you reading the manual page saying it needs to come off?

yes im reading the manual since i have never split the cases on a 14. do you think that i could leave it on and still split the cases? i dont see why not but i also dont want to hurt anything

I'm not sure but I think you can leave the rotor on and split the cases. The rotor will just remain on the crank. Right fellas?

Mad

yes im reading the manual

Here at, double you-double you keep the rotor on-dot com, proceed to split the case with rotor on... Say nothing to no one.

#3 and #4 big end rod bearings are smoked so are both of the rods. now what ? plastigauge and bearings and rods? im also thinking about sending my crank out to falicon? and opinions?

sad to her like that, looks like oil pressure loss, did you do a monster wheelie

Crank will need a love job as well as the rods and all the oil galleries and pump

do you know the cause

Good luck daytonboy