Killa,
Get ready for basicspin your head off. It is way too simple in step. I just can't get ALL the steps figured or configured.
I can only go by what I read in shop manual abstract. Since this is basic old style as if Busa's Electronic ignition is Kawi's Digital ECU is an ECU.
Since the early 1980's, base setting says short this wire so you can set your timing plate. That same concept back then is more old style as if you can see the ignition's revolution changes.
First there was the little cup with two windows. Then the magnet to make that hall effect window open in the correct [quote]Full Advance[unquote]. That more had that saturation time at the coils then out the gate or out the window heads the spark.
Before the dyna sore there were points. The cup with window had no advance springs like the points style. Out the window that goes. Comes the vacuum or IAC or MAF sensor. Now, you open her USA in your chevrolet, you pop a paper clip in this connector opening, go back to the front of the car, set base timing. Go back to her sore ass, bend over, turn the key off at the column, pull the paper clip out at the connector under the glove box.
Now, did you sort of see what I just did with old electronic ignition timing for a car? Only thing is; the 14 is preset up the ass. No need to preset shit because everything has a preset resistance. Once that is broken, it is replaced.
This digital 14 is less busa old style, turn the key on. Is there a 00o or a o00? Well, it has to be set like this o0o. YOur TPS will now be in sync... Don't tell Kawi to eliminate that pinball waste my time with your antique electronics.
We are now in digital. ZIt is now in an ON/OFF self policing. It shows a code if the senor fails. No busa dial to set the tps. It sets that limp if out of spec or that base timing sets itself; no matter how I say it. It moves right up to full advance and now swing the distributor to time the car's engine.
Timing is set in that retard fast advance not smooth sending number as that of analog off the MAF or intake sensor. It all will go limp in that on/off, meaning, it is going to run rich and limp so it does not ping on load.
Will it stop the pop? Some. Why? Because it sets a hard and soft code setting. It sets an on or off kind of simple as that. Either you are on that stock, no code setting, or you will hit that hard code that pops a number in the gear select window.
If you watch that AFR meter video, I am moving those codes to limp, you can see the hard no pop = 16.5AFR
If you see it swing to 18 AFR, this is the stock soft setting.
16.5 = Rich
18 = Lean
16 = No pop with ignition in retard, limped rich so no ping being fat on load.
18 = Pop with more air less gas [fills that void] cooling off that bang to be heard.
TRE = Timing Retard Ex=tre Fork Diving LIMP out the tank rich @ full advance no matter what, they both hit the same [full] advance!
Sound logical and semi simple off Ivan's pimple?
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time