I know my 14 has always had a surge at idle from day one, especially until it gets warmed up a bit. I guess I notice it now more since I uncorked the exhaust. The CBR doesn't seem to do this, just wondering if this is a characteristic of the 14's fuel injection? May be time to balance the TBs. Hubster, what's you thoughts?

Kruz

i guess it's another kawi thing, lol. the 636 does it too. have you tried adjusting the idle speed to see if it makes a difference? bumping it up may help get rid of some of the surging.

Is your surge occurring at cold idle,or after it's been run and sitting at idle?

The surge is probably from the Tre006 you have. It makes the bike run a different map.

She's surged a bit at idle from the day I picked it up at the dealer. In fact I met Lucky14 at the dealer that morning and he commented his bike did the same thing. It does it cold, I notice rpm is low at about a thousand, then it picks up to 1100 as it warms up and the surging smooths out. I'm not worried about it, noticed it more after pulling the noise restrictor inserts.

Kruz

yeah, i think that's a little low. i plugged mine up to the pc the other day to switch maps and it was reading 1350 rpm at idle once settled. it starts at about 2k. i've always heard that you don't want to get below 1200.

The surge is probably from the Tre006 you have. It makes the bike run a different map.

I do not believe this to be the case. A friend of mine has this same issue and his bike has no TRE. If in doubt remove it and see. Kruz, have you checked your throttle points ?

I bumped idle speed to 1250 and the surging is pretty much gone once she warms up. It's always done this but since I pulled the restrictors out of my Yoshis I noticed it got worse. I love the sound now so the surging is no big deal. It might help to balance out the T.Bs. I haven't done mine yet, everyone is telling me it's a royal PITA.

Kruz

* Last updated by: Kruz on 5/11/2009 @ 7:11 AM *

Wait till you tie both bodies together. Hold on to that throttle once you snap to see if they both settle back to it's even sync.
As slightly off as they were, when they sunk up and I blip'd the throttle, I thought the pistons were going to fly out of the head.

So, if say one bank is leading, then yeah, sounds like a bank of 2 could surge the other side. I'm just saying. Don't know if that cam and head are waiting to explode being that other surge of power you mean.

Sync screw wise, it takes a 90° screwdriver head and a short or working length Phillips tip to reach from the 90° ratchet to the throttle body screw. I use this style driver with a small broken mirror, a drop light, and stick light to get the reflection off the mirror that is sitting on the case.

On a scale from pain-in to the-ass... Ass being right at the top of the scale as in you do not have the patients and that tool setup to some sort of working twist to reach and see, then it is going to be one big A in the ss that you are about to tackle.

Question, Kruz.

Does the bike run a tiny bit hotter than normal?

Isn't the 100-250rpm surge at engine start-up...NORMAL???

The service manual recommends 1050rpm +/-100rpm with engine at normal operating temp..

So isn't anything above 1150rpm at idle on a warm engine..Too high??

Pg. 134 of the Owner's Manual, (1 050 ~ 1 150 rpm)< Is normal rpm range. Anything higher is not hurting anything. Just a harder clunk in 1st. Slightly more gas used. Slightly more hours on the bike is excessive time spent.

According to Kruz, he feels something different than that surge. That is more the norm with his setup. So, he knew the bike was off with the air cleaner; which finally appeared to be the problem. This being dirty ran a little rich. So seat of the 'Cruise' knew something was amiss like the hez is experiencing now.

One hez on the other thread, seems like #2 cylinder has something to do with that hesitation is my guess. No sync could be that far off for a hez. So with the cylinder being cold on start-up, the other 3 warm, it kind of narrows down more a cylinder fire than a really "OFF" sync; where it would knock the clutch basket in the off-sync of 2 cylinders. That means that; one bank of cylinders has one throttle body. It has a one piece shaft, meaning, it has 2 shafts controlling 4 cylinders.

One screw turn moves both shafts equally and that balance is one prime example for > 'Smoothing.' Right now, there is a hesitation upsetting the 'smoothing process.'

Nope Hub, in fact this bike keeps running cooler all the time, two bars above the "C" most of the time. If I stop in traffic I can hit the third bar, still two below "Hot". Throttle response does not seem as crisp when blipping the throttle off the idle stop. This could be removal of the inserts, less back pressure, low end response that sort of thing. Start up cold she hits 1000 rpm, gradually climbs to 2000 while she runs through the warm up drill and then settles back to about 1050. Once she's up to operating temp the idle comes up to about 1200, never did that before, idle rpm was always the same. Also feels like I'm getting a "soft" miss at idle. It started a few months back, I thought it was the Pair valve burning fuel in the cans cause the engine feels smooth. You can hear it more than feel it. I'm overdue now for a plug change at 11K miles, I think I'll do that and see what goes. Something's changed, subtle but changed. I may need the TB synch but Hubster has put me off that for awhile.

Kruz