When grn's bird was captured in flight, found another snip of the bird closer to the bike, I was so impressed with the clarity, I put the Wooly on hold. Now I hold a shit load of accessories that are way overpriced, but that's another story of injection molding, the machined blocks costing about 20 grand or say a guesstlmate? So the rest is sheer profit once those steel blanks keep on injecting, because they were paid for long ago.
With the absorbing sequence of how do I meguyveer this puppy like my 3 cameras, I threw more money at the injection molded parts. You look at a bag and it's 20 to 30 a pop: it adds up. So when I see all those position$ on cars and whatnot? You're looking at cases of beer not being purchased this weak is I have to buy those weak ass parts.
It seems the history with this unit was intended for underwater purposes. So the vibration in the water is cushioned. Out in the air, with fast air, and hard bumps, this thing will move if not well secured. And with my anal moves, I need to stabilize this puppy much better than it sitting static on the 'thumbwheel towers' call them?
I have yet to work on a video with this pro3 unit. I've been reading up, pushing buttons, watching screen, erasing video, handheld push button playing too; it's all new. With time for glue to set, other R&D moves to condition myself to learn all these wide/narrow/speed settings, it's going to take some time to see all the possibilities.
What I've learned so far is how long the battery lasts? I have the 32bit size mini card, let that guy fill up with the most pixel capacity. I watched the [main] battery bars disappear, but it kept on running with [tiny reserve bars] in view. The mini card filled in 1.1 hours. So there is no problem if say you run a piggyback battery. No, I did not run the 3 with its own battery supply.
Speaking about supply, I also bought the pro's car charger. I bought 2 cigarette lighter stations at radio shack. There is one in front of the gas tank, the other at the back thru the seat frame rail sections and in between them. Which means I took a dremel and ground out the plastic cover to expose the charging jack. So I can run the 3 with the bike feeding the batteries. I can keep the cam on for a long time and just hit the handheld when needed. Then again, that handheld will need charging too.
With the charging stations completed, it is showing me how little I could move the heavy camcorders, how many meguyveers I'd have to do to the R to match the 14's camera mounts again. All those steel mounts again? This is so much easier. At what price? I guess this is like the company, Caterpillar. Who else makes the parts? So you are stuck with no alternative.
I had a funky, yeah it took pics but it was a garage sale plastic camera and would work and then wouldn't sorta. So I removed the tripod mount, glued it to the back of the water tight plastic panel. I can now mount the 3 on a tripod. I also glued an old bmw key on the back as my tether hole. I also grabbed the hand strap off that garage cam, laced that thru the key hole. I'll bend another key so I can glue that to the side, lock both the hinged cover to the case. Run a key ring thru it, then one of those tiny spring clips and tether it to the bike somewhere? This way, if the hing were to let go, the main latch may not be able to keep the door in place. So I added some insurance and a second tether.
Which brings me to the 3rd tether. As I meguyveer more parts like the thumbtowers, I have to salvage a mounting clip hinge body, salvage another hinge for the top of the clip, meaning, there is my 3rd tether tied into the back of the cover. Here, I salvaged another tripod mount from the old camera's meguyveering. I screwed that into the back of the cover, run a [?I don't know yet the bridge?], or a stability bar from the back of the cover to the salvaged clip and sticky mount.
Up to this point, I have power to the batteries, towers for vibration points. And to point up this charging issue: we have nature working this balance all the time. So with battery A (pro) and battery B (piggy), say batt-A is 6.3v and batt-B is 6.1v. We are going to cut the batteries in half so that balance will be cut to 6.2v right off the bat you squeeze them together. Now, down the road to chargingville? 6.1 is going to drag down 6.3. If 6.1 is all she wrote, she is going to be pulling current off the .3v side. So eventually, the stronger 6.3 batt is going to [eventually] be weak bye .2v. In other words, either pull batteries and individually charge them off the cig lighter: once you stop recording and/or stop riding for a bit? It takes only a few minutes to recharge them. I'm going to keep that piggy as in peak shape, so I may pull over and individually charge them. If say you were at some race filming? When no events are happening, jump in the car with the charger and cables, keep them charged by themselves. It's that little extra voltage you just may need to capture that one good shot.
The only issue I see is either my computer can't deal with this much data, or I'm playing with the wrong seconds? It skips. Don't know if that would happen in their free program or moviemaker? I'm still setting up cam positions and tether points. So I'll take this mini card to apple or bestbuy and try it on their towers? See if I need to send Wooly even farther back on the waiting list. Maybe this happened to you first time out and figured it out?
* Last updated by: Hub on 7/11/2013 @ 8:45 AM *
The salesman was saying, "It's time." And I know the tech leaps every 18 months: was some guy's theory, which came true. So with the latest gopro, I needed the processing to match. It was cheaper to buy than refurbish this old one. Figure with 2 or 3 parts like a game card, processor, motherboard and for a few more coin it was better just to tool-up new. 
Which one comes first?
.Or where exactly the cam was seated on the fairing.IDK...I modded some of the housing(s)...so they aren't stock.You know..trying different stuff.I have some extra bits if ya need em....let me know.
