I want an OEM oil filter for my 2024 ZX-14R.

Motorsport shows part # 16097-0008 for 2024 ZX-14R. Also fits 2008 ZX-14.

Revzilla shows part # 49065-0014 for 2023 ZX-14R. They don't have 2024 model as a selection yet. Revzilla shows part number 160097 for 2008 ZX-14.

Two different part numbers both OEM. 49065 costs twice as much as the 16097.

Why the different part numbers if they're both OEM filters for the same bike?

Which should I buy? Is one better than the other?

Any oil filter that will work on any year ZX-14R will work on my 2024, right?

* Last updated by: Rook on 10/12/2024 @ 1:32 PM *

Not familiar with 2024, Rook. Could be another jobber selling gross after gross and got a deal on the bunch. Could be the cost of doing business today will all the food prices and almost everything else on the rise.

Only way to tell is to cut one open and match the older one. I cut open a fram filter and it was well made. Could try a fram.

Then again, maybe the diameter grew and old wont fit a new model... just guessing.

Thanks Hub but nah, I read a few stories about aftermarket filters not quite matching the thread pitch and people mucked up the threads on the tube into the oil pan. I'm sticking with OEM on any filter. The only exception might be for race purposes only and I really mean racing, like you do it one race day and then put it back to stock for ordinary use. That's filters anyway. I know you'll agree with me on that because you're the one who taught me it! I believe, it's not worth the risk for everyday use to have .03 seconds gain in performance you can't notice without a stopwatch.

All I have right now is the 2012 book and it doesn't specify the part number for the oil filter. It does show in the illustration an oil filter with a hex on the cap like a K&N so you can use an ordinary socket to torque it. Maybe that's the difference in part numbers. I'll have to give Revzilla a call and ask about this.

...and the part number is probably printed on the filter installed at the factory, isn't it. ?? I'll have to look.

16097-0008 is the factory Kawasaki oil filter number.

Thanks mokaw. The more I look, the more OEM oil filters I see with different part numbers. Mostly 16097-something. The suffix seems to refer to the country it was made in but I kind of doubt if that makes a lot of difference. I would pay whatever they were asking if it were made in Japan but I don't think any are anymore. Kaw outsourced like everyone does. Fine as long as Kaw is watching the quality and I'm pretty confident they are or else they wouldn't have outsourced in the first place.

For about the last 5 years or so I've been using HIFLOFILTRO racing oil filters. Part# HF303RC. Excellent oil filter.
I had heard only good things about these filters and I'm highly satisfied with them.
Do some research on them if you'd like.
I'm not sure, but if I remember right, Kawasaki OEM filters are now made in China.
Correct me if I'm wrong.
I believe the different numbers after 16097 refer to the length of the filter - short filter or long filter.

* Last updated by: mokaw on 10/14/2024 @ 4:58 PM *

I believe the different numbers after 16097 refer to the length of the filter - short filter or long filter.

Hmmmm...IDK. I believe I saw 16097 with three different suffix numbers. I also saw MADE IN CHNA and another that said MADE IN THAILAND. Looking at a parts fiche, it just shows 16097.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/-oIwSkUqcCI

Thank you Hub. I spare no expense on my bikes. I'm sure I wasted a good amount of money and a heck of a lot of time but it's all worth it for peace of mind and personal growth too. I go OEM on filters and I'd do it if it cost twice as much as aftermarket. I only change the oil filter once a year anyway. LOL I could change it once every two years with the mileage I put on the bikes but like I said, I spare no expense.

SO it's cold as you what her in Michigan and getting about as late as you want to wait to change oil on your bike for storage. I found, you change oil below 65°, that f--ker is going to condensate and you should have just left the old oil in it and changed in spring. I have about 350 miles on the new bike. It's going to be 76° here this weekend. I think I'll run the bike and drain the oil. Fill with whatever motorcycle 10W-40 I can find locally and order the right filter. If I'm lucky enough to get a day over 65° after that, I'll run that fresh oil into the filter and the motor. Otherwise it sits with 350 mile oil in it like it will sit all the rest of the summers of its life.

here's how I see it: you keep a bike a lifetime and god forbid it get wrecked, it spends a cumulative 20-30 years in storage. You might as well store it with clean oil. Now summer when you ride 500 miles, that bike sits all summer with dirty oil but it's not that dirty if you only ride 500 miles. ...so if it sits one winter with 350 mile oil, that's probably better than 0 mile oil with condensation. Moral of the story, change your friggin oil before October and store the bike. Start it up in June. There's no real reason to ride a bike here between September and June. Your lucky to get foiur or five days over 70 degrees.

serendipity: https://www.slashgear.com/1313139/best-oil-filter-brands-ranked/

Saw a video with regular oil and syn. I'm sold on syn of any type, Clutch slips, it goes away after a few hundred miles. Still run half 40yr old straight 50 and the other half syn.

I was able to buy a 16097-0008 locally and I picked up some Honda GN4 10W-40. They even had a drain plug gasket. I'd have preferred Kawasaki Performance oil but they're both for 4 stroke motorcycle engines and both JASO so I'm sure there's not much difference. All I can see is that little sight window on the clutch cover but I almost swear the oil that came in the bike is Kawasaki green in color. I'd like to get more of that stuff someday.

Saw a video with regular oil and syn. I'm sold on syn of any type, Clutch slips, it goes away after a few hundred miles. Still run half 40yr old straight 50 and the other half syn.

I haven't much personal experience to base it on but I believe in synthetic for reducing engine wear. I also believe if there's any potential for a leak, synthetic will seep through it more readily than conventional oil. I'm waiting until at least 5000 miles before I switch to synthetic. That was recommended 15 years ago. Although a lot of automobile engines come with synthetic in them from brand new, I don't know if motorcycle engines have changed as much in the last 15 years.

The video I saw shook up new and high decade sitting oil. The new oil did not bubble and they showed the old oil bubble up.

I tear open every filter I change and it shows clean, spec free debris between the pleats. Been using half old/half new cans in every 14 I've gone thru. The beaters coughed up more specks than the broken in book bikes.

Never go past 4,000 rpm for the first 600 miles... says book. I'm a believer on low rpm break-in's. It's not the oil used... get it?

The book says you can exceed the recommended break in rpm briefly if necessary. I guess I found it necessary. We'll see what my pleats look like after 400 miles. You use a razor knife and not a hacksaw, any other tips for the dissection?

Snap-On cutting sheers, and a straight cut chisel to begin the opening/draining.