I tighten mine about 12 ft lb with a beam torque wrench. That is plenty tight. It has never come loose.

That big of a thread should take 40 ft lbs without stripping. but it darn sure sounds like the threads stretched. Coulda been the gasket compressing. IDK I never tighten that much on mine. What I do know is you might have the gasket squashed onto the threads if you crushed it that hard. That happened to me and i had to cut the gasket off. I tighten my plug so gently, I have been using the same gasket for the last 7 years.

-so what do you guys think? Man up and loosen and then re-tighten with my new spendy torque wrench to 90% of manual torque or leave it until the oil needs to be changed and then see if I am fucked then?

90% nothing!!! I never torque any external things to spec. Use locktight if you think it will come loose (although probably not a good choice for an oil plug). You will be taking these bolts in and out a hundred times and that's thread wear every time. If you don't work on the bike much, that is the reason for full torque. I use aluminum bolts as much as I can and that forces me to go with 60% torque or maybe less. If it really needs 70%+ specced torque, aluminum is out of the question.

I think it would take 50-60 ft lbs to maybe strip that M10 thread. It's not deep but 40 ft lbs wouldn't do it.

Take a wrench with you when you ride for a while just in case it loosens.

Check softly with a wrench after you do a short ride. Don't check hard and turn it again. If it is stretched or stripped let it stay as tight as it can be on it's own. Why wear the threads to check it?

if it is in fact stripped....do I get a used pan off ebay?

If the threads are loose from stretching, you could probably get away with using a small amount of plumbers tape and that will snug it up. Keep the tape below the inside of the oil pan. I guess a dot of locktite on the top two threads would suffice if you clean all oil off both threads. Try removing whatever sealant you might use before threading in the plug again. Crumbs would be stopped by your pickup screen but that would eventually clog the screen.

You could repair that with a thread repair plug. Basically a threaded M16 plug with new M10 threads in the center. Drill out and tap the old hole for M16 and thread in the donut. I'm sure you use some kind of permanent locktight for the repair threads. OR drill out and thread to M12 and use any M12 bolt as a plug.

I'm guessing on all of these thread sizes so check before you order anything.

How hard did you turn the plug? 30 ft lbs should not damage those threads but it is way too tight and could be a bitch to get out.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/18/2018 @ 4:33 PM *

Regarding your PM about adding spacers to raise the height of the damper to the level of the bar risers, here's a pick of how my Hyper-Pro is mounted. There is a side plate on each side of tthe mount and this plate reaches to the side of the steering neck where it bolts on. There are bolts there and they are not necessary to fasten anything. I believe the clutch line has a retainer fastened with two bolts there on the LH side. Just use a P-clip on the bottom bolt for the clutch line. The top bolt hole is where the damper mount is fastened. The RH side just has a black bolt stuck in there not fastening anything.

Yeah, no matter what you do, a higher damper will be more leverage against the mount. However, the tube cannot be tightened too much or you'll crush it and it's just held in that little clamp. An extra inch and a half of leverage against the mount is probably not an issue as long as the mounting bolts are tight. That tube is going to slide in the clamp before the bolts bend.

And looks like the center mounting bolt is in the part of the fairing you cracked so check Ebay for a tank cover and rattlecan it whatever color you want. Clear coat and polish out nice and level with that Mothers you have.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/18/2018 @ 5:35 PM *

ChewToy--Mr Newbie here, always RTFMing---:-) Manual sez 22ft-lbs for the drain pan bolt.
Should be able to twist it OK with a rachet..good luck!! Might indeed be the washer. Was the washer a new one?
Paul

If it is loose, get this and safety wire it.

https://www.ebay.com/i/282951185673?chn=ps

Or even better, might as well start spending $$ on Pro-Bolts. This is a nice low profile one with a nice long magnet. Price is not bad considering.

http://www.probolt-usa.com/aluminium-sump-bolt-magnetic-m12-x-1-50mm-x-15mm.html

It's M12 for the drain plug. I just measured. I doubt you stripped or stretched. You would know if you were torquing hard enough to do that.

There is probably a boss on the inside of the oil pan. It would take a lot of torque to strip.

I realize the wire goes through the plug but how does that keep it from spinning out?

I would have to use spacers on the tank bolt but I don't see a way to address the part that goes to the frame. Anything I cobble together would likely not be a stable base.

The part on both sides that goes to the frame is just a flat piece of 1/8" steel plate with holes drilled in it. Easy peazy if you cut out some cardboard and mock it up. I guess they would be about an inch and a half longer for your risers. I would go with aluminum dowel about 1 inch in diameter for the spacer at the fuel tank cover. Drill out a hole for an M6 bolt or whatever it is. M6 x 50mm should do it and you can find that online if Ace doesn't have it.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Unique-Bargains-M6-x-50mm-Thread-304-Stainless-Steel-Hex-Socket-Head-Cap-Screw-Bolt-DIN912-16pcs/964629335?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=571&adid=22222222227085797389&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=197249370632&wl4=pla-316827155414&wl5=9017663&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111838760&wl11=online&wl12=964629335&wl13=&veh=sem

I see M6 x 60 online if you need that long.

There's no guarantee with a steering damper. It probably will help but it might just fail. They set them up how ever they work. You can even have a bar end damper if you want.

I will have about 5000 miles on the oil, but it is synthetic so it should be ok.

It didn't do bad but was nothing special

Rook, I bet you didn't read that blog I posted about the oils....did ya?

by the way Rook....I tweeked your Map so many times I lost count and it fucking pulls so hard right now I am a little scared of the bike.

Whom ever said a map couldn't make a bike haul ass didn't have the right map.

The only time my bike has run poorly is when I had AutoTune correcting for idle on a cold start and it made a 16 AFR.

yes, my limited knowledge of the Auto tune comes from you so until you are impressed with it.....I am saving my cash for other stuff.

thanks
Joel

I'm impressed with it. It's the only affordable option for self tuning. It's just slow and this makes it quite risky to use if you want to tune your whole map on the street. If you want to adjust your fueling, Autotune is the safe way to do it. ..Safe for your engine anyway.

I'm impressed with it. It's the only affordable option for self tuning.

My understanding is that it needs you to be in each cell for a long enough time for it to correct the cells parameter. since there are 500 plus cells and you have to hit them all probably multiple times during a ride multiple times, that is one long and strange ride with some super slow and super fast driving.

I am going to have to wait on the stabilizer until I can afford the the Ccott's....460 plus tax is the best price I have seen so far.

Also, if I am lucky enough that the oil pan bolt is able to back out of the hole. I will put in one of the anchor plugs you mentioned and put a couple of new crush washers on first and set to 15 pounds and stop when my wrench gives me the 10% early warning.....so aprox 13.5 ft/lbs.

oh, and what I did on your map was to change all cells that were positive to zero and left the negative ones be. I did this because I am not moving the volume of air that you are because of my stock exhaust so I figured My bike is still retaining some of the stock richness, which this is hopefully balancing out.
Anyway the results was no flat spots that I could tell anymore.

Joel

My understanding is that it needs you to be in each cell for a long enough time for it to correct the cells parameter. since there are 500 plus cells and you have to hit them all probably multiple times during a ride multiple times, that is one long and strange ride with some super slow and super fast driving.

For cruising, Autotune works well. It takes about 2 seconds for it to correct the AFR. Of course, if the bike had previously been tuned as described above, the AFR should be very close to perfect until the weather changes or you ride at a different altitude. If you are racing you'd want to tune for those exact conditions but it makes no difference you can feel. There are many things that are changing constantly throughout a ride such as engine temp, humidity and air temp. The AFR is always fluctuating by about .5 but there is no palpable change in performance.

If you're happy with a map, you don't need Autotune but if you want to make sure it's perfect, Autotune is the best we have available and it works, it's just not instant. Other than cruising, it definitely won't work well if you just ride the bike. You need to do the tuning runs for specific TPs just like they would on a dyno. Backing off the throttle causes all kinds of false data to be sent to the module.

I am going to have to wait on the stabilizer until I can afford the the Ccott's....460 plus tax is the best price I have seen so far.

Also, if I am lucky enough that the oil pan bolt is able to back out of the hole. I will put in one of the anchor plugs you mentioned and put a couple of new crush washers on first and set to 15 pounds and stop when my wrench gives me the 10% early warning.....so aprox 13.5 ft/lbs.

I don't think it's stripped but it may be very tight by the time you remove it next. Should be fine. I'd just go with one washer. Two might crush only half as much. I don't think they crush much at 13 ft lbs anyway but mine has never leaked. Check out my oil change tutorial for my exact recommended torque for filter and plug. I'm pretty sure it was 12 on the drain plug but it has been a long time since I changed oil.

http://zx14ninjaforum.com/messages.cfm?threadid=BF8429A6-D56B-84E2-1A155B51563CC500

I believe the reason I started torquing the drain plug and filter looser is because it was so damn hard to remove after 2 months of being torqued to spec. The filter would crush and required two wrenches set side by side to remove without twisting and cracking. I'd have pull like a sumbitch to get the plug to break loose. The filter is threaded until it just touches the mount and then 3/4 turn----about as tight as I want to try by hand.

oh, and what I did on your map was to change all cells that were positive to zero and left the negative ones be. I did this because I am not moving the volume of air that you are because of my stock exhaust so I figured My bike is still retaining some of the stock richness, which this is hopefully balancing out.
Anyway the results was no flat spots that I could tell anymore.

Good thinking. It can't hurt to put a 0 in a cell because that's no correction. That's true, the whole map is probably safe from making your bike run lean if your air flow is less than mine. You have a window between 3000 and 6000 where your stock fueling is probably leaner than mine was because my flies were 100% open at 3000. I don't know if my full system balances off your stock fueling for flies partially closed.

I don't know if my full system balances off your stock fueling for flies partially closed.

You do know I took out my flies back when I first had the mis-fire right....plus I had to drill one out....so those fuckers are never going back in.

Joel

I stripped one on my 07 once.I bought a tapered bolt to go in there.I think it also cut 'new' threads as it was tightened.Worked great for 50k plus miles.I hand tighten,then run in to snug the bolt.I stop once it snugs fairly tight.It will expand as the pan and all heat up.It's possible your washer hung up on the bolt threads,then moved to where it's supposed to be.Sounds like it to me.

It's possible your washer hung up on the bolt threads,then moved to where it's supposed to be.

well it was a shock to feel it give way at the end of my tightening. It didn't even seem like a crush washer was there. It was thick and steel colored. I think it was a regular washer....who knows with the lack of maintenance the dildo that owned my bike did....Never seen clutch fluid look like beef gravy before.

Joel

I am not sure how many threads are in the pan but if it is like a ZRX you have about 3 1/2 threads to hold the bolt tight and the oil pan threads will give up long before the bolt does.
I have used the rubber plug that squeeze tight with an allen bolt without problems.

Good luck with what ever way you go to fix it.

Overnight, the puddle should show up. Once you pull the threads there is enough distortion for the oil to seep past the washer. So the deal is to wipe the bolt with a paper towel. Brake clean if you have to. Next morning you take a clean towel and if it's yellow it's a leak with damaged threads. If it's dry, you just crushed the crush washer more is all.

Torque hardware till you have a feel for it by hand.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uyuZhj3fnw

no, like I said 600 plus miles since oil change and no leaks. Just too scared to check it now....would much rather deal with it at the end of season. Worst case scenario is a new pan and taking exhaust off and I can do that with a header upgrade at the same time. Just need to wait until Novemberish.

Joel

You won't need a new pan.Just a self tapping bolt...

You won't need a new pan.Just a self tapping bolt...

good news.

thanks
Joel

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 8/20/2018 @ 12:22 PM *

Unless it's "cracked"

Might as well wait to see if it starts dripping oil
on your back tire before checking out thoroughly.

Might as well wait to see if it starts dripping oil
on your back tire before checking out thoroughly.

Ouch piken. Yeah I think I would want to know too.

Dave

Whom ever said a map couldn't make a bike haul ass didn't have the right map.

Let me guess your ass dyno is better at rating than track performance

If you are going to be the hooligan wheelie guy, you might want to
consider upgrading the Gen1 oil pan to a low profile pan anyway.

You do know I took out my flies back when I first had the mis-fire right.

Just pulling the flies doesn't solve the whole problem (it made no change at all on my bike). The stock fueling is still there unless you tune it. IDK what the 06-07 fueling was like 3000-6000 rpm. Maybe it was programmed rich which would help make my 08 mapping work for your 06. People did run with flies out and no fuel adjustments on 06-07 bikes and they said it was a lot better than flies in. Kaw might have made 3000-6000 fueling rich knowing people were going to pull flies.