Kawasaki full syn when I can find it!

Moty's from Japan...
an oil of quality makes a lot of difference
definitely worth the extra cost...

2 most popular oils used are the ...

Mobile 1 4T = 10.00 qt / $40.00 gal.
Rotella T6 = $20.00 gal.

I use Rotella T6

* Last updated by: piken on 8/2/2019 @ 9:07 AM *

I've only used Kawi conventional oil and Rotella T6. IMO, the T6 does not work any better or last longer but it is less expensive and it is synthetic. If a more expensive synthetic lasts a lot longer, I might switch to that. I do like the idea of having fresh oil in there more often though.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/2/2019 @ 4:59 PM *

---

This should be Cleenfouteen's new avatar:

This is just like a business going bankrupt, stiffing their employees and creditors and opening up under a new name the next day.Ronny Rayguns would be proud.

---

Your amazing,did you think that up by yourself?Whatever it means im sure its important to you.Must be some of that string cheese theory you babble on about.Must be one of those idiot savants,like rainman.That guy really got inside some folks head apparently.All I do know is its comical,grown men acting this way I mean.I have done nothing to anybody,glad I have thick skin.Keep it up,Seems like you enjoy it for some odd reason.Its creepy as hell tho,your stalking and all.Enjoy your day-bumpfire

Creepy, alright webstalker

---

If I really thought you gave a shit about oil.....

But I know for a fact all you care about is stirring up shit and harassing people you don't agree with.

Many motorcycle forums are ruined by people like you who insist on rubbing their dirty laundry in everyone's noses so they can suck up to those who agree with them and fuck with those who don't.

I participate in motorcycle forums because I love bikes, riding and maintaining them and learning from others while I pass along knowledge others have passed to me. If I want to argue with a bunch of low-IQ rubes, I'll hang out on Faceplant or some other forum where idiots love to puke their chickenshit philosophies all over and take up bandwidth with their drivel. I noticed with your new identity, you went straight to Off-Topic and started saying the same stupid shit to the same people you got kicked off for in the first place. Being a fanatic is redoubling your efforts when you've forgotten your purpose. Since you don't have anything motorcycle-relevant to say (An oil thread, really?) why don't you just stay down there babbling and insulting people until you get booted again? Shouldn't take long, even with your new passive-aggressive shtick.

* Last updated by: Danno on 8/9/2019 @ 1:11 PM *

---

Rotella T4 15-40 is JASOMA/MA2 rated. I'm a cheap and I've used it for years. Can't beat the price and availability.
I was reading on "Bob the Oil Guy" that Bikers are using Mystik 15-50. It is more expensive. Someone said that it does not "shear" like 40wt.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3250414/Mystik_15-50

In my old days of riding of my air-cooled Bikes I ran straight 30wt in the winter and straight 50wt in the summer.
Oil is a personal preference discussion.

This should be Cleenfouteen's new avatar:

I thought that was just for starting an oil thread!

I use Rotella T6 full synthetic. It's inexpensive enough to change every 2500 miles and it;s synthetic. Seems to last about as long as conventional oil but no longer. I don't usually have the opportunity to ride in ambient temps over 90 F but it seemed to work well at that temp. 2500 miles, the shifting does start to get a little clunky.

* Last updated by: Rook on 8/11/2019 @ 11:26 AM *

---

Hi,
Not sure if this has been covered yet, but would you guys recommend flushing the engine before an oil change.
I see so many oil flush products on the market and would like to give the engine a clean before adding fresh oil.
Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks

Multi-weight oils are detergent and good oil filters remove most of the dirt, down to microscopic size.

Engine flush is for old, neglected engines and I would never put that crap in a well-maintained, high-performance motorcycle engine.

---

I'd avoid those engine flushes, maybe if you had an old vehicle that had been sitting on a farmer's field for decades sure but on the zx14 the wet clutch means you should be careful about what you put into the oil pan as some additives (or cleaners?) can ruin the friction plates.

I agree with Danno, especially if you change 3-4K miles

---

Yeah.I did.I only saw a difference in length between changes.The syn went longer by a few K.I'm runnin semi syn right now...Kawasaki 10-40.Works well.Always let's me know when it's getting used by the shift action.

Funny you should mention this. Got on the bike yesterday and ran a loop testing audio mic's and jacks. Didn't wanna spook the traffic because this is a one way out either way. So I laid low. Up and down two canyons so I was forced to shift. This is the short version of a 50min. loop. Foot cam as well but not this vid.

---

Hi,
Not sure if this has been covered yet, but would you guys recommend flushing the engine before an oil change.
I see so many oil flush products on the market and would like to give the engine a clean before adding fresh oil.
Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.

Yackou, I have never flushed a motorcycle's engine when changing the oil.
However even though it's only a small thing, maybe consider an oil plug with a magnet on the end.
I have one and whenever I change the oil there is always micro metal particles on the magnet.
Better on the magnet than floating around in the oil...

* Last updated by: yannih on 9/27/2019 @ 11:49 PM *

---

Has anyone went from full synthetic to dino? Whats your opinion on overall transmission smoothness compared between the two? I change yearly, around 2500 miles. Just wish I had the smoothness at 90 degrees as I do at 60.

You mean dino to full synthetic? Sure. The synthetic will leak easier if you have any leaks or are close to having a leak. I'ver also went back to dino oil after using the full synthetic. No problem.

I use Rotella T6. I can't tell the dif between that and dino oil even immediately after an oil change. The Rotella needs to be changed at 2500 miles just like the dino oil too. I can tell the shifting is not as smooth around that mileage with both Rotella and Kawi conventional oil. Rotella's inexpensive. Other synthetics might be better.

I used a very expensive race oil once. It was amazingly smooth but only lasted 500 miles and then was like normal oil.

I'd skip the flushing product. Change oil and drain then refill and circulate a second time if that will make you feel better. I doubt it would be much cleaner than the initial oil change.

However even though it's only a small thing, maybe consider an oil plug with a magnet on the end.

I use one of these now too. Mostly black dust clings to the magnet and that's all. The only time I had any visible chunks was when I slammed it back down after missing a shift at high rpm. I think the magnet is more for monitoring engine wear more than anything. The oil pickup will screen out large pieces if you have those and the filter will catch the micro particles. The magnet just grabs steel particles before they can get filtered so you can see how much and how large they might be. I suppose that helps keep the screen and filter clear too.

* Last updated by: Rook on 9/28/2019 @ 3:40 PM *

---

This bike needs an oil change. I stepped up the video speed a touch.

---

This bike needs an oil change. I stepped up the video speed a touch

The first time you get those shoe laces tangled around the shift lever is always a fun surprise.

Ambient air temp matters, cool mornings it runs smooth as silk.Coming home in 90+ heat it seems different. Hard to explain.

I think you explained it, just forgot the science of molecules expanding. Cool air condenses. Molecules are closer. Flame-front tumbles like dominoes. Hot air expands. Molecules are farther away to fire the next tumble.

---

I just wanna know if I'm joe-average and enjoy the performance of this bike like everyone else. You guys and gals surely beat on it every time out, no?

---

You guys and gals surely beat on it every time out, no?

Like a red headed step child.

You guys and gals surely beat on it every time out, no?

Only in 1-2 gears, cant take the risk and attorney expense of another 54 mph over the posted limit (was in 3rd gear)

But at the 1-2 track days each year you bet - redline every shift if possible, I know the bike is designed to take it if it smooth shifter and not thrashed

wrt to the OP and oil, I tried Motul 300V several changes ago and this load has ~5200 miles on it and it still shifts like new. About to dump the juice and send a sample off to Blackstone Lab for test and material analysis

* Last updated by: cruderudy on 10/2/2019 @ 12:44 PM *

---