60-80-100 PSI Averages vs. the 10% Rule.
100 vs. 80 = 12.50% is 2.50% over the 10% window of rebuild
100 vs. 60 = 60% down of 40% is who cares about the math.
100 vs. 90 = 10% tear it down she is done.
100 vs. 9% in leak down, above was hand held compression readings. This says 90 is that 9 in leak is still a 10% weak cylinder we have a poor idle, poor old slide is going to be pulled more up to compensate than the better cylinders. That's carb sync or throttle body sync who cares.
That single carb is still going to pulse a bad idle or not a smooth idle. And you are right, if you can work some bike back together, then do the same with a car... We need to pull the plugs next time. Easier on the starter. We want to static prime the oil system. That means we rebuilt the engine from the ground up. Threw in the oil and tumbled that engine in all sorts of positions you wish you could do that to a car engine.
We just accomplished the splash shuffle tumble. Hope we tumbled a lot of oil like now hand crank it upside down kind of already greased the shit out of the bearings so that has plenty of coating on it. Couple of 360's upside down and have the walls all pistons didn't need that kind of oil up top so I dry assemble knowing I'll tumble the 4 quarts in there upside down and side ways.
All that shit before it goes into the frame. Then we run down the street in top gear plugs out. With the turkey pan under the oil filter, I'm watching for that oil to come see me at the corner, I now have a hand primed, I got my lines right, no 3000 rpm that can burn the shit out of an engine within seconds, not a run down the street under I haven't a clue if that is 140 revs in a minute times 3000 fast ones?
So in engine theory 101 under motor guy 2.2, it is never a gas start to prime but a toe stepping messing with the oil prime. So, if you run a half a block or less and that filter hole is pushing into the filter, I think you got the lines correct, not crossed. And yeah, buy a few cases because you need some buddies over to push the next car down the road and back. Unless you have a battery charger and a good battery to turn that new engine over a few times is the charm.
Yes, boobie, you are hearing the lower end is my guess as you described. The pistons may have been treated to a splash lube but that heat at the top end was getting dry so it has to travel into that wall somehow. And before I forget... Whatever you buy next, bring your compression tester. If the seller refuses and you buy a 10%'er that needs work... Better buy it at a steal or get those numbers and pay his price kind of Catch22 on both your ass is.
Tormenting the motorcycling community one post at a time