Question: has anyone tried painting the Traction Control wheel/counter on the front wheel of a 14R? Mine is corroding already, (live @ the beach and bought bike in Feb 2013 as a left over 2012,Have 5100 miles on it now.), and was gonna try painting black. Wondering if changing the color will effect it.

No brotha have not. It's weird the first thing I do when I get on the bike is turn the traction control off!

Wondering if changing the color will effect it.

Awesome! There ya go Zed!

Post pics when ur done! I like black! I'm down like Grn!

Like to see dem pics too! Mad love!
W

Hub,
Man mad love you bro, but I need a GD translator to understand your crazy ass!

LOL 2k, I get that wherever I go.

We have a magnetic wave form. Each pass thru the open window is the communication blink. The color will not affect the magnetic field in other words.

We cannot let the square of the window be eaten away. If you see the manual, it shows a good tone wheel and a damaged one. It has to do with 'leading edge' time. So if there is the edge of the square of that window is eaten away from the corrosion, it creates a leading edge more in the retard zone. Whereas if there window was square [physically] the leading edge would be back in phase with the other leading edges.

Again, this is peak wave when lead and edge meet. And you know I'm guessing at all this, but it sure makes sense to me when the book makes no mention of leading edge. This is where you have to know a little of just about everything in this book: if you want to get it back up and running or come close to getting some pulse out of it.

* Last updated by: Hub on 7/11/2013 @ 6:43 PM *

If you picture that magnetic field from the magnet in the sensor in its elliptical form, the flats in the breaks rotates through creating magnetic pulse interruption. A 'wow wow wow' magnetic oscillation. The 'snapping' of those fields is nice and sharp, the response is clean. Like a light blinking crisply on and off. Those edges degrade, that interruption snap o the fields will begin to bleed together. System can understand and calculate disparate speed in the field snap front to rear and deal with that. Has trouble with magnetic field bleed over due to 'edge' or 'knife' or 'crease' dullness or wear. I think.

Yep, Whatever the window count? I need to count those times one wheel turn. And if I bleed-into the next window, my square wave is going to intersect, bleed thru that wave, throw a code-27 at the front wheel, a code-24 at the rear. I need 48 counts times 360, and a 45 count at the rear wheel.

My wheel is rendered useless if I count 44.3 or a 47 at said wheel count we add up the eaten away windows. If say a window was distorted, etched away, I would hammer out dent, or silver solder the rot, hand file the window back in place.

Peek a BOO !

Now you see me, now you don't???

Neil

I love this fuckin place! Peek a boo is the crux o the issue! Y'all are awesome. I ain't lettin my ma fuckin peek a boo get rusty. No sir. Not me.

Instead of painting it, what about anodising or electroplating it?
Just a thought.

Neil

Why not powder coat it?

Seems to be made out of a low strength steel that was galvanized. Probably powder coating would hold up the best.
Thanks all for suggestions and knowledge.

* Last updated by: ZedX on 5/30/2014 @ 7:52 PM *

If I round out my hex bolts, I rather take some plastic model paint, take a brush the coating on. Sand it so the paint sticks = Done.

Everytime I am on here my to do list gets longer! Thanks Homies,,,!!!