I use Mobil 1 0w40 European car Full synthetic.....It rated as high as Amsoil....has no friction modifiers as most 40 and 50w oils don't,is fully synthetic, and is 23 bucks at wally world for 5qts. I change my oil normally no later than 1500 miles which is the estimate when most oils loose a fair amount of protection with hard riding. I change the filter every-other oil change at the 3000 mark, but I could very well go 3 changes.

Here is the article. It was the number one thing that will save me the most money on maintenance.....except for the great help I get from this forum.

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

My oil rated #6 on his list of over 200 common oils and the diesel oils were way down the list....Now the question is really "is the oil good enough for the application", more so then "is it the best oil on the list" Rotella has a big following and is cheap as hell, but so is mine and it rates much higher in wear protection. The fact that it is 0w oil will bother some of you but if you look at the cold start. You want an oil that is going to flow as good as possible in low temps like starting the bike three times per week in the winter to prevent premature wear at start up in the spring.

Joel

Wear protection reference categories are:

• Over 105,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection

• 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection

• 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection

• 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODEST wear protection

• Below 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE wear protection

The higher the psi number, the better the wear protection.

SHELL ROTELLA T6, 5W40 synthetic, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4/SM
“Load Carrying Capacity/Film Strength” = 67,804 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
total detergent/dispersant/anti-deposit build-up/anti-sludge = TBD
TBN = TBD
The onset of thermal breakdown is approximately 260*

6. 0W40 Mobil 1 “FS” European Car Formula, ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, API SN, synthetic = 127,221 psi
This new oil replaces the older version called, 0W40 Mobil 1, European Formula, API SN, synthetic. See below for the older version’s ranking position.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This new “FS” version was tested in Summer 2016.
However, a 40wt hot viscosity rated motor oil is too thick to be ideal for most engines. It is best to select the thinnest motor oil viscosity that will still provide acceptable “hot” oil pressure. And you do NOT need to select the “highest rated” motor oil, just as it comes right out of the bottle, from this Wear Protection Ranking List. There are many highly ranked oils here, that will provide your engine with excellent wear protection. So, you have many oils to choose from.

I also went on to test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. This oil did have a 16% drop in capability. But, even at that elevated temperature, it produced an impressive 106,876 psi, which put this much hotter and thinner oil in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category.

and if it weren't for the cost I would use.
5W30 Amsoil Signature Series, synthetic = 134,352 psi
The bottle does not have an API symbol, but it claims the oil can be used in applications that require API SN, GM dexos 1, ACEA A5/B5, A1/B1. It also claims to provide 75% better wear protection than required by the API SN specification (though it does say that claim is in reference to their 0W20 Amsoil Signature Series synthetic). And it claims 50% more cleaning power than Amsoil OE motor oil.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This oil was tested Fall 2017.
The psi value of this oil, which came from testing it at the normal operating test temperature of 230*F, put it in the FANTASTIC Wear Protection Category. And it produced the highest psi value ever seen in my testing, from any 5W30 motor oil just as it comes right out of the bottle, with no aftermarket additives. Very impressive. My test results confirm that Amsoil’s claim of this oil providing exceptional wear protection, is true. This oil could well be “THE MOTOR OIL OF CHOICE” for most High HP engines, including Bad Boy traditional American flat tappet pushrod engines, or for virtually any engine where 5W30 is used.

And I also went on to test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. This oil had only a modest 7% drop in capability. But, even at that elevated temperature, it produced an impressive 124,573 psi, which still kept this much hotter and thinner oil in the FANTASTIC Wear Protection Category.

In addition, I also tested this oil at 130*F, which is an oil temperature in the middle of the range of the Sequence IVA Wear Test (ASTM D6891) = 123,882 psi, which still had it in the FANTASTIC Wear Protection Category, even though this value is about an 8% drop from the normal 230*F test temperature’s psi value. NOTE: An engine warming up, will transition right past this temperature as it heats up to its normal operating temperature.

So, here are the three temperatures I tested this oil at, put together for easy comparison:
130*F = 123,882 psi
230*F = 134,352 psi
275*F = 124,573 psi
As you can see, there is no meaningful difference between these three psi values, and as mentioned above, all three psi values are in the FANTASTIC Wear Protection Category. So, none of these temperatures had any negative affect on the oil’s wear protection capability.

I also tested this oil to find out its onset of thermal breakdown, which was 295*F.

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 8/18/2018 @ 9:16 PM *

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OH, this oil thread! OK I will give Amsoil a try after I use the Rotella that's been in there since last Fall.

As for starting 3x/week in Winter, my opinion is that this will not reduce any ill effects of letting the bike sit until late Spring when you can go out and ride it.

A cold start in a deep freeze will probably take a lot more turns of the engine without lubrication than a cold start in summer. Yeah, You have an oil film in there but it gets washed away from fuel spraying into the cylinders and not getting burned. Bye-bye improved performance of synthetic oil.

Starting the bike contaminates the oil with combustion byproducts. Sure, starting the bike in summer does he same thing and that oil will probably stay in the engine for at least a month getting more and more contaminated but at least you are riding the bike. If it sits unridden, why not let it sit in clean oil?

Starting the bike in cold weather causes condensation and this is even true if you ride it. It's impossible to get the motor hot enough to boil off condensation. How do we know, Some of us have seen the white film that develops on the oil level site glass when the bike has been ridden in winter. In the garage it can be difficult to get the bike above two bars in when the air is really frigid. Steam comes out of the exhaust even after shutdown and Probably the plugs get damp. The condensation is the main reason to not start the bike when its cold.

Those are my feelings. Some people disagree.

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will not reduce any ill effects of letting the bike sit until late Spring

Interesting.....how about if I put on a santa suit and ride the piss out of it 2 times per weeks.....any good?

I really don't like the idea of letting it sit for 5 months.

Joel

You should have been a bike mechanic....all that cash work, Plus if you were lucky you could have had your choice of biker chicks.

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 8/18/2018 @ 11:32 PM *

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.how about if I put on a santa suit and ride the piss out of it 2 times per weeks.....any good?

That is worth starting the bike!

I really don't like the idea of letting it sit for 5 months.

I can see why after the spark plugs problem you had but Mine has always started great after storage as long as I charged he battery to 100% the day before. Mine has sat for 10 months now and it started right up and idled great a few weeks ago. Last winter, I removed the clutch and everything was coated in oil. It looked like brand new in there. Either way you go, starting or not starting, it probably won't make a huge difference. If it did we would know for sure like we would know what was the best oil and what was the best tire and what is the best way to break in the engine.

You should have been a bike mechanic....all that cash work, Plus if you were lucky you could have had your choice of biker chicks.

I would be the poorest bike mechanic in the world because I spend way too much time. The biker chicks would help offset the loss but they'd have to be under 25 before I would consider it. I may be too picky about women too.

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they'd have to be under 25 before I would consider it.

unless you have money for a heavy duty rear shock.....they grow em big early in this part of the country.

Joel

it probably won't make a huge difference.

That is cool I know where to drag my bike if it won't start next year....Wisconsin is one of my favorite places to drag bikes too.

Joel

* Last updated by: ExWifesChewToy on 8/19/2018 @ 11:51 AM *

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