I replaced my fork seals whilst installing my Traxxion AK20 kit.
The old ones seemed fine, but it was recommended if they had more than 5k miles on them to replace since its easier at the time. The bike also got transported recently and looked like the tied it down pretty hard, so I though it was a good idea....

I followed the SM and the various web instructions and the odd YouTube.
I have a proper 43mm seal driver (from Traxxion) and these are OEM seals.
I never really found any guidance about how much force should be used to drive the seals in.

I noticed tonight the tubes are slightly oily, and there was an oil drip on the left side.
I was very careful not to cut the seals as I slid them on the tubes.
But maybe I didn't drive them in hard enough?
The spring clip snapped back in - I thought that was enough.

I'm thinking of pulling off the front fender and trying to drive the seals a bit deeper whilst still on the bike.
Any thoughts on that?
If I break the forks down I'll have to dump the oil to get to the seals - its brand new oil!
I have some spare fork oil, but not enough for a change over.

Do you think I need to pull them down and recheck oil level (PITA)? I could do that without dumping the oil.
Just need to keep everything upright while I get the cap off and springs and spacers out.

If you got the clips in then the seals are in far enough. Did you tape over the end of the fork tube before you slid the seals on? That edge can cut the seal lip. There shouldn't be any drips or wetness. And you didn't use those "Leakproof" seals? Those things are crap IMO.

Mad

No I didn't use tape on the fork tubes, but mine weren't that sharp.....
I was super careful sliding the seals on.
Seals were N.O.K. brand.

Strange that both are leaving a film on the tube....

You did put them in the right direction right? Which means that the open side is facing UP towards the fork body when the forks are installed.

Mad

Good question!

They are installed with the closed side to the washer, open side to the dust cap.
Seal driver slips into the gap so I assume that is correct.

I took off the front mudguard (that's aussie for fender...) and slid the dust shield and circlip off.
I used the driver to push them up, just to make sure they were all the way home.
There is a good 1.0 - 1.5 mm gap from the seal to the recess for the circlip, so they seem to be well seated.
I reassembled and then cleaned the tubes with contact cleaner.

I went for a 15min ride, deliberately did some hard braking and popped a couple of small wheelies.
When I got back there was a slight film on the tubes. If you run your finger over the tube it comes back with a very light smear. Seems better than it was..... but not dry.

I'm booked for a track/training day next Wednesday.... non refundable.
Wonder if I should replace the seals on the weekend.....

The open side of the seal should be towards the inside of the leg (up on inverted forks)

Forks should be bone dry. If there's residue, your seals are not doing their job.

I found (and stole) this pic of a fork seal replacement.

It looks like the way I installed the seals.
Open side toward the dust seal...

That doesn't seem to match what you said Danno?

* Last updated by: oz14 on 2/14/2013 @ 12:15 AM *

I haven't done mine yet (1st set of inverted forks I've owned) but lots of conventional forks and the open side of the seal always faces the wet side (inside). Yours are leaking, so you're gonna have to pull them down anyway. Can't tell from the line drawings and the photos in the shop manual, but as long as you put the new ones back in the same way the old ones came out.....

I have learned so many things the hard way that whenever something goes wrong that was fine before I laid hands on it, I assume I screwed something up. 99 and 44/100ths% of the time, that turns out to be true.

* Last updated by: Danno on 2/14/2013 @ 4:37 AM *

P.S. The seal in your stolen photo looks upside down to me. If that were a conventional fork, I'd bet on it. The coil tension spring around the inside of the seal perimeter has always been to the wet side. Someone's gonna have to explain to me why it wouldn't be in an inverted fork.

* Last updated by: Danno on 2/14/2013 @ 4:42 AM *

Thanks Danno.

I also subscribe to the theory:
Never assume conspiracy that which could be explained by ignorance or stupidity

I was pretty sure I put them in the way they came out...but as you say, I touched it, I probably broke it...

I tried to remove the original seals with pliers by pulling on the rubber. I thought it was less likely to mar the rim on the fork tube. It didn't work, but it did pull the coil tension spring out, so that thought was in my head when I put them back in.

As you say, I'm gonna have to do the whole freaking exercise again.
At least this time I can take some pics.... I'll put together a simple howto for the traxxion kit.

I just hope I can get new seals for the weekend. Parts around here take 2 days for everything.

If it's like the picture you definitely have your seals in upside down. That explains the leaks.

Mad

IDK what I was thinking.

Mad and Danno called it. Pulled the forks and put in new seals.
Work as designed the correct way around

Apart from this distraction the AK-20 kit is awesome mod.
Now I'm gonna go learn how to ride - fast n smooth!

YAY!!! Now go out and have some FUN!!!

Mad

Mad:

I note that you decided to have the service dept do your seals.

Mind if I ask what they charged you, line-by-line? (Fork Seals, T-Sync, Sparkle Plugs, Valve Adj., etc).

Just wondering is all, and tell me to go to hell if'n none of my business, that'll be OK, too.

Thanks,
Bob

Hi Bob,
I'll get all the details when I pick it up tonight. I know that the fork seal job alone was going to be $270-290 start to finish. I haven't asked what the rest will run. It needed to be done and it was already in the shop and I've been working a lot of O/T so......

Mad

Hi Bob, Sorry it took so long, my work computer no longer lets me go online...
Here is the breakdown, done by a very good shop by a very good tech.

Fork seals- $35
Spark plugs- $40
FORK SERVICE- $225
Leakdown/ compression test- $50
Valve adjust ( all needed it) $500
Labor- sync and others-$300

Discount for the first T-body sync ( found their gauge had a crack in the hose) -$100
The found that all the valves were tight. He set them all at the middle of the range. Makes me think that they were not adjusted when I bought it, although I was told they were. So, now I have a baseline to start from and it is running fine.
Hope this helps.

Mad

Mad:

It's kind of you to provide the info, thanks very much.

My .02 is, these prices look not only reasonable, but a bargain. Esp. the valve adjust cost.

Hmmmm, you are the fellow whom the tech doing the T synch said something like: "It wont sync on #1, we should check the valves." Right? I think that's what I remember...

So, the tech had a busted vacuum gauge tool, huh? Hmmm. well, at least it's done, and they're "right" now. ...and you got a discount!

Yeeah, this is the shop that Dave Moss started. Now Jim and his wife run it when Dave is at the races. They used to do only suspension work but now are full service. Nice people and they don't mind you going in and chatting with the techs.
CATALYST REACTION
San Carlos CA

Mad