Hi Guys, I am bringing my 14 in for a new front tire, new brake rotors/pads and some steel braided lines. A 2008 with 19,000 miles, should I have the fork oil changed or wait until it is time for seals? If so, what is recommended? Thanks

I would say Definately, and replace the oil in the rear as well. Rule of thumb is 10k, Hub can elaborate of tell me I'm wrong. Is a dealer doing the work? How confident are you in their abilities? Now would be the time to do any re springing for your weight if needed.

Put your location in your profile so we can see where you are, and maybe make a better recommendation.

Rear shock [oil] is not replaceable. Front fork oil is every 12k. Pull the forks, turn them upside down and let them drain out by pumping the cap and rod to pump the internals dry or as much as possible to empty the chambers. The fork cap is bolted to the rod; the fork moves up and down and that rod is like the pump but is stationary rather than moves as it pumps. So what you are doing is not moving the fork but moving that rod to pump oil out.

There is fork oil coming out that measures half of a can of kyb oil is it? At the kawi dealer, there is replacement oil recommended thru kawi in other words. Half of that can fills the one fork, the remainder fills the other fork. The measurement out of each fork was pretty much even to the kyb oil container, meaning, the oil in the can was enough to do both forks.

So if you are having a front end done like tire and discs, might as well keep the regular maintenance going and repack the front steering bearings along with the fork oil change. That steering bearing interval is every 7.5k.

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/30/2014 @ 8:04 AM *

Thanks Hub, will do. I actually have a dealer in Hicksville, NY that does pretty good work. The best part is that the owner has 2 ZX14s so he knows the bike very well. He wants to sell me a set of 14R wheels with the polished lips. I still can`t decide what to do. I don`t like the CF look. Galespeed makes a forged aluminium wheel that comes polished. That might look good. Any issues with the Goodrich braided brale lines?

While we are on the subject of fork oil, can anyone tell me what weight oil my 2011 uses?

KAYABA 01 (KHL15-10) or equivalent SAE 5W

480 mL (16.2 oz.) each side when drained. Different numbers when rebuilt.

YW, blue... late.. missed the post.

* Last updated by: Hub on 10/9/2014 @ 7:54 PM *

Thanks, Hub. I was also wondering what you think about backing off the preload adjusters to take any tension off the fork caps before removing them?

No need. Here's my deal. Come fork oil maintenance time, I remove the forks, hang them upside down and since the coil winds are wound via a rod, there is no tension on the cap like the old days. The leg drops down off the threaded cap w/rod and you are ready to pour it out. You can pump the fork legs to purge the oil out of the channels as well.

What I found out is that I measured both fork oils and they were even at the drain. And when I refilled the container back up, I could literally use one kawi brand fork oil container, split it in half and they dialed right back onto the mark I made at the containers.

While those were draining, I cleaned/repacked the front steering bearings. That's pretty much the loophole of using that measuring tool to spec the bike's level, but it's so close... I'm not about to anal the levels.

So you only need to twist the top piece off then?That makes things much simpler.;)

Here's a question then....everytime the fork compresses...it leaves a tiny amount of fluid on the piston,right?Does this mean the oil in the forks is consistently being 'used up'?And does that also mean it's 'supposed' to do that?Mine leaves a very very light trace of oil where it moves like that.I don't think it's leaking...better not be...I replaced the one side once already.Still have it...all it really needs is a seal.I just didn't want to deal with trying to find someone here at that time period.Wanted to get out and ride...not wait for some shop to get er dun.

How easy IS it to replace a seal(the lower-upper fork leg seal)?Looked pretty intense from what I read about it.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 10/12/2014 @ 7:40 PM *

To assemble the fork with a new seal, the seal has to be in place and ready to be installed and that's this tool needed.

Mine leaves a very very light trace of oil where it moves like that.I don't think it's leaking...better not be...I replaced the one side once already.Still have it..

Sometimes it's a pitting at the chrome. Condensation creeps in, rusts from the inside and pushes the finish out. This sharp bust thru needs to be addressed with a jewelers file and knock the rise off so there is no sharp protrusion to cut the new seal. Feel the leg up and down for that nick or rise in the finish.