Is it just me or is this a really poor design overall?

I have front and rear Anderson race stands which are great quality.
No issue with the front stand.
But the rear stand brackets are thin steel and scratch the crap out of any black anodized aluminium rear bobbins/stoppers installed so they have silver scratches all over them.
Plus look how close the stand bracket is to the black swing arm. The last thing you want is scratches there as well.
There must be a better way.
I want to buy a set of really smart black Yoshimura bobbins/stoppers for the bike but why spend that extra money when they are going to scratch the first time I put the bike up on the rear stand?
Is there some kind of tough rubber boots that can go over the race stand steel brackets to stop the steel onto aluminium contact?
The only resolution I can see is silver non anodised bobbins/stoppers but I want black ones to match my black bike.

I know it's only a small thing but I just don't want scratches anywhere on my bike...

Have any of you guys figured this one out?

* Last updated by: yannih on 3/25/2015 @ 11:48 AM *

Option 1 = Plastic
Option 2 = Rubber
Stick it = Amazing Goop

1. I slit said tube [option] down the center.
2. I slide glue inside the U of the tube at said area.
3. I turn it over and open the tube so it rolls to the lowest point of the stand's hoop.
4. I will glue the rest of the tube later. I now stick both options in their hoops and roll the stand under the hoops and let the first round of glue setup for days if not a good 24 hr.

5. This does not say I can't continue with the both front and rear tubes and glue those down with zip-ties, roll rubber bands over them, etc.
6. This also says I can lengthen and glue all of the extended lengths I want so if I accidentally bump the stand into the bumperettes too soon, they hit the option first and I can be a little sloppy on the entry and no scratches occur I keep the tube length long.

Something like that in the meguyveer of it.

* Last updated by: Hub on 3/25/2015 @ 10:33 AM *

The thing that gets me Hub is why do we have to mess with this at all?
Why haven't the stand manufacturers added a specifically designed plastic or rubber coating to prevent scratching in the first place?
Piss poor effort if you ask me...

* Last updated by: yannih on 3/25/2015 @ 11:49 AM *

I have delrin spools for the 14 with a built in spacer so they clear the curved botom of the swingarm. The Pit Bull rear stand is a bit thicker gauge steel than your lift fork. I doubt that would help much though, we're talking about a sixteenth of an inch thicker. Put some duct tape over the swing arm before you lift and you're safe.

I have black anodized spools on the busa and not a scratch on them. I just wrap them in electrical tape about 3-4 layers before I use the lift. Actually, I leave the tape on them. If it starts hanging down I snip it off or pull all off and rewrap it the next time I need to lift the bike. It's a PITA but it works.

* Last updated by: Rook on 3/25/2015 @ 11:30 AM *

Thanks Rook but again, why do we have to wrap spools in tape and duct tape swing arms when the stand manufacturers should have sorted this in the first place.
I know I'm going on about something thats not a huge deal but it seems so obvious to me...

* Last updated by: yannih on 3/25/2015 @ 11:45 AM *

I have black delrin woodcraft spools with spacers, they shouldn't scratch up and keep the stand away from the swing arm. I say should because I haven't used them yet. A friend gave me a lockhart phillips rear stand the uses the rubber coated L brackets which doesn't scratch at all.

A few coats of plasti-dip works pretty good ...

That must be the actual dip Dip, not the spray Dip. The spray Dip I recently used would be too soft to reliably last more than one time.

why do we have to wrap spools in tape and duct tape swing arms when the stand manufacturers should have sorted this in the first place.

Maybe some spray on bedliner type material would be better then plasti dip.

There's an idea!

Bedliner???
What's the story there?

That's the stuff that is used to coat the inside of the box on a pickup truck. Heavy duty plastic. It has to be very tough stuff. I heard about the stuff prolly 20 years ago. It's a plastic. Don't know if it is brush or spray or either / or but that ought to be about as durable a plastic film as you can get.

I'm sure there are other brands. Can't tell you which is better or best.

http://www.zoro.com/i/G3042137/?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=Cj0KEQjw3M6oBRDnnIywo5i287ABEiQAXRm7S2KEHMzh2wTqWs83Hqf41Y2ox8z3W_0_DFixtq8Ncy4aAruA8P8HAQ

^^^probably pretty hard to remove too.

I have a pitbull stand and spools. I don't have any issues with the stand contacting the swingarm with my setup but the spools (green anodized) do get scratched up with use.

I figure that's what they're for. I don't worry about the spools.

* Last updated by: jtemple on 3/26/2015 @ 6:13 PM *

Bedliner can be rolled on. I have some at the house, I will try to test the theory this weekend.

Bedliner from the parts stores wont last long in my opinion.

I would ask a company like Line-x if they could spray a few parts when they shoot a truck. My truck was Line-X'd and it's some tough stuff.

I also sprayed the inside a buddy's Jeep tub with U-pol Raptor liner. It seems pretty durable also. But would be to expensive to buy just to shoot the spools.

I have powder coating that turns to a rubber type protective finish...
Never thought to try this but I'll let u know when I get time!

06blackpearl
I have powder coating that turns to a rubber type protective finish...
Never thought to try this but I'll let u know when I get time!