I've just install some EBC HH sintered pads, do I need to do anything special first time I ride with them to bed them in?

Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
"For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient."

Thanks, the forum thread I found only mentioned doing one lot of 10. I'll give it a couple more goes

I don't recall doing anything special. Mine seemed to work as good as OEM from the start. NOt better, BUT quieter. No squeal at low speed. NOw after about 20,000 miles, they do feel like they are binding a bit when I apply the front brakes...something is not seating perfectly square. Doesn't happen avery time. Prolly should look at the wear on those pads.

So, is this process similar for other types of brake pads (ie ceramic pads)? And Rook, its interesting to know that you're getting low speed/light brake squeal too, I thought it was just my bike cause some salt did a bit of pitting on my rotors :(

Could be salt but I doubt it. I can't see pitting on mine. After a wet ride, I get an occassional rust spot where the pads float over the rotors. That disappears soon. I have heard many people say the 14's front brakes squeel at low speed. It's just a resonation of the pads on the rotor that happens. The EBC HH pads have dimples on the back that are supposed to prevent the noise. Whatever it is, they are quite.

I can just feel that bind now. It's not a noise so much. Not a real bother to me as long as the pads are not getting thin.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/16/2013 @ 6:56 PM *

I always break in any kind of new pads, cars and bikes. Seems to make a difference to me anyway. Can't do any harm, so why not?

^^^don't really think I did anything special but sounds like a good thing to do. Ida done it if I knew the process. I love that process oriented stuff!! The more stuff I deliberately do, the more confident I feel about my work.

I've just install some EBC HH sintered pads, do I need to do anything special first time I ride with them to bed them in?

I wil have ALL new rotors on the 14 soon but I expect to keep the same pads.

Do I need to follow the same process of bedding in with new rotors and old pads?

IDK if you'll find any site that suggests using 'used' pads on new rotors....maybe.I always just eased into my pads...they always worked fine that I could tell.A few hard brake episodes when just past 'new'....seemed fine???That deal up above about breaking the pads in...geez....no way could I force myself to do it that way;)Well...maybe...but...I've never heard of doing it like that...sounds a bit overkill....I think the EBC site has a break-in procedure for their pads and such.I don't remember reading any literature with mine that was THAT extensive.

IDK Grn. ...thinking back now, I did test my new pads and brake lines under max power pretty quick. The rear anyway. The front, I do not try to lock that on purpose but I'm sure I hit them hard right away. Oh well, I did not notice any change in performance at any point. The EBC pads and Goodridge lines were nice as OEM from the start.

I'm sure most shops and manufacturers want you to buy pads and rotors at the same time. The 14s stock rotors will outlast pads for anyone so you're bound to change pads on used stock rotors. That's what I did. I just washed the rotors thoroughly because some people said that the compound from the old pads may not be compatible with the compound of the new pads. People even said that the compound would be ingrained in the rotor so it is impossible to wash away. New rotors were not in the budget then and they are not now so it will be new mixed with old again. Worked just fine last time.

On other non-performance vehicles, usually if I was replacing rotors I would also replace the pads mainly for 2 reasons: there's usually a reason you are replacing the rotors (past service limits, excessive run off, pitting, excessive scoring) and usually that reason is caused by bad pads/wear, secondly, pads are cheap, rotors are not.

Do I think there'll be a big problem if you use old pads on new rotors, probably not. I think the idea is that the pads have mated with the rotors and will develop the same wear profile as the rotors. If you put old pads on new rotors in theory you could start wearing the new rotors unevenly. If the pads are pricey I personally wouldn't replace them and I highly doubt you'd notice the difference between new and old pads.

Thanks. Yeah, a set of pads is at least a couple hundred bucks, I think. If they still have a lot of wear, I'm keeping them.

Seems to me if I were replacing the pads alone, that would also involve a new wear pattern that was different from the old. WHO knows? ... It would be best to change both any time you were going to change either but I'm betting the difference is not enough to justify the cost.

It does seem to make more sense to change pads for the sake of the rotors because rotors are twice as expensive as pads. I guess I could hold on to the old pads and use them when the fresh pads have worn out. The rotors would be older at that point too and probably not as much of a thing to fuss about.

* Last updated by: Rook on 4/23/2013 @ 8:07 AM *

Yeah, a set of pads is at least a couple hundred bucks, I think.

Actually, I see I can get a new set of EBC HH, front and back for under a hundred. I was about to goahead and buy a set but then it dawned on me that I would be changing wheels for touring. That I will do to save on tires but no way am I going to change rotors or brake pads so they all match up. If I am going to run new pads on my old rotors and then switch wheels which will have new rotors... I might as well stick with the old pads I have already run on my old rotors. Same thing.