06 ZX 14-No headlights
08/28/16 12:23 AM
Yes, I have read other threads here and have checked advised causes.
All of my led on inst panel light up when engine is running. Also the city light blink with front and rear blinkers.
A little history.
Last year was riding in rain and headlights went out, I heard hi/low beam relays buzzing, bought both but did not change. No problem for a year, no rain.
But changed a month ago.
Last week, no headlights, and fuel level indicator was flashing hi-low.
Removed tank and found smashed wires from fuel level float level mechanism . Fixed, fuel ok, still no lights. That shares relay box with headlight. Thought it may have fried box. Installed new relay box, lights worked for about 3 hours.
Removed all head light bulbs, ok, no moisture, etc. still original bulbs.
Inside of light control assly looks good, turn, hi/low beam.
The ground under the seat and battery are good.
NEW
Battery
relay box
hi/low beam relay
turn sig relay
Thank you

14v at all 4 sockets, city lights,frame ground and hi/low beam switch
fuses good,

14v at all 4 sockets, city lights,frame ground and hi/low beam switch, fuses good

I think I read here that you have 14 V at all 4 sockets, meaning at the headlight sockets, where it plugs into the light bulb.

If I have that correct, then it's not the +VDC path that has a problem, it's the other side. The ground side of the bulb electrical path.

Turn the cycle off, and then use an ohm meter to check for low resistance (close to 0 ohms, or a "short") from the negative side of the socket (at the bulb), to ground.

I think it should be pretty close to a short, or zero ohms. If it's not, that's the problem, and start trying to find out why not.

Hey, thanks for responding,
i think i understand what your suggesting, One or more bulb, sockets, ground path,,, could be shorting not allowing path to return to ground'
If i find one shorted, i should follow that wire.

I will try this tommorrow

* Last updated by: lm on 8/29/2016 @ 6:09 PM *

If i find one shorted, i should follow that wire.

More likely, you'll find an open, or a "partial open". I'll explain...

An open is easy to find. Usually, I'm expecting to see a "short" (0 ohms), and it's not. It's an "open (infinite resistance, needle does not move at all. (OK I'm old school, I prefer analog meters and own two of them). An "open" means the wire is not connected from point A to point B. No path for electricity (from the meter) to follow, no resistance (hence, "open), and no measure of voltage when attempting that measurement.

That's easy to find. I trace back to the point that the meter begins reading "ohmage" again, using system ground as the reference (the point measured from). Somewhere in there is a break in the wiring.

From you description, you might find thing this way (an "open").

The harder one is when I'm expecting an open, and I find a "short". That means the wiring is presenting me with wiring that does not belong in that path.

A "partial open" (or it can also be viewed as a "partial short") is where the wiring has been cut, but not all the way through.

I actually expect you to find something like this way, based on what you described so far.

The wiring is "good enough" to present a voltage when measuring voltage, or to present a short, if measuring resistance. But, there's not enough strands (if stranded wire) to carry the current load (the "demand").

Say, If you have a 10 strand wire that can carry 10 amps when not broken, and then that wire is cut to one strand, then the circuit is "demanding" 10 amps, but can only carry 1.

It measures "good": there's voltage, and resistance, but fails under load. These are difficult (not impossible) to find, but it does require skill and step-by-step care.

Measuring each sock ground wire to frame ground, i get about .9 ohms
the pos side gets no reading 1.,,
All ground wire are a black and yellow stripe
Measuring each socket ground wire to ECU GR WIRE socket i get 1.2 ohms
Plus i get the iffamous continoity beep from the meter
.4 ohms from relay socket to bulb sockets
So i found a joint connector, 6 ground wires, blk/yellow,, had some moisture, arcing and melting of the pastic,, box is on left side right above coolant res, follow that harness about 10 inches forward,, there
could be where bulb gr wires meet

* Last updated by: lm on 8/30/2016 @ 5:19 PM *

I suspect this is a place where the headlights 4, city lights 2 ground together ,6 and 6,.....
ohms from light sockets are the same 1.7 at 5 of the junction grounds, the bad wire has only .4.
It appears to be just a ground junction,,, end,, not connected.
Could i cut, shave , twist together. This junction doesnt look available in parts catalog.

* Last updated by: lm on 8/30/2016 @ 5:54 PM *

actually, looking at main schematic, it only shows 2 joint connec that has 6 wires, I think The one i am messing with,,,,schemat is is showing 1 wire from it,, hi to low beam relay,,then to all light ground wires

* Last updated by: lm on 8/30/2016 @ 6:41 PM *

I think u have really helped and taught me a lesson
your previous response of resistance cutting in half..
If i measure direct from bulb or relay to frame ground i get 1.7ish
if i start with bad ground wire from joint connector, then go to relays or bulb, it cuts in half or less .4
the other 5 wires in the connector will give 1.7ish

* Last updated by: lm on 8/30/2016 @ 7:03 PM *

You're definitely in the right place. I can not determine, from the paritial print, where exactly the joint connector picks up the neg. battery, or frame, ground point.

So, I can not explain to you why the difference from 0 ohms-to-0.4 ohms, or to 1.7 ohms. That is, it's close, but not 0, you see?

One wire of the bundle looks to be in bad shape. In the picture above, the wires closest to the "right" side.

Now, be careful. The 1.7 measure may be indicating you're measuring *through* one of the headlight lamp elements to ground, if those connectors are still attached. Maybe. You can disconnect them, to be sure one way or the other.

You get 0 on the meter display when crossing the meter leads, yes? (A "true" zero).

Yes, you can cut the "joint connector" off, and re-bundle the wiring *if* you have soldering abilities. That's a bunch of wire, you'll need a hot iron to do it. 50 watt+ should do it, if you're patient. Do *not* cut it out, if you don't have: The tools, the ability, or the solder. That is, do *not* just twist these together with a wire nut.

lm,

Glad you found the root issue, if you want to replace the connector what you could do is look in an auto parts store for a weather proof electrical connector kit, you basically just crimp (or solder) on little pins to the wires then insert the pins into the connectors and you're done.

If that doesn't work, you might want to try talking to Cory, he salvages ZX14 rolling chassis and might be able to help you out with replacing the connectors. I've picked up a few parts from Cory in the past and would recommend him as he has good prices and excellent customer service.

http://www.402bike.com/

PS: If you can, it would be a good idea to cut off an inch or so of the end of the wires just in case they are damaged underneath the plastic jacket.

Un able to post scan of schematic from work.
From left of joint connector on schematic
1ST to headlight hi relay to low relay to all front lights, hi,low,city turn signals
2nd to horn button, 30 amp fuse
3rd goes directly to another joint connector # 2
4th goes to camshaft posi sensor,speed sensor,side stand switch, frame gr under seat & regulator / rectifyer
5th frame gr next to batt
6th to fan motor and to black wire in relay box-new { headlight circuit within} under seat

* Last updated by: lm on 8/31/2016 @ 3:05 PM *

the measure ments are with bulb removed,
from bulb sockets to frame ground, 1.7 ohms
from bulb sockets to bad wire .4 ohms
from bulb sockets to good wires 1.7 ohms

* Last updated by: lm on 8/31/2016 @ 10:10 AM *

I understand y u would say dont twist wires together, but looking at the schematic, they are connected electrically together

I understand y u would say dont twist wires together, but looking at the schematic, they are connected electrically together

What I mean is, it's OK to cut, strip to bare wire, and wind them together or use a wire nut *as a test*.

Solder them all together to make it permanent, don't leave the wire nut permanent.

OK?

Yes, that makes sense, look above i have updated explaining where each gr wire from the joint connector goes to, i cant add a pic at the moment,,
Thank you for your responses

FnA,,, YOUR AWESOME DUDE, thanks a million
just have to fig out a permanant fix,, just twisted and capped now.
your advice pushed and encouraged me to go furthur