Also called the meter bracket. I was wondering what the torque specs were for the two bolts that hold this on? Mine recently loosened up and the nose piece was pretty loose. My service manual shows them but doesn't list the torque specs.

Those are 8mm bolts so min is 10ftlbs - max 13ftlbs.

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Thanks Hub! That doesn't sound like much but I'm no engineer. I'll put 13lbs on them with a bit of blue Loctite unless you recommend less torque.

* Last updated by: jmartin724 on 6/28/2015 @ 5:27 AM *

Hub, if that is the general torque spec, that is probably not for a plastic part. I'm thinking inch lbs if this goes through plastic. Blue loktite if the screws go into metal but if they go into plastic, there's special LokTite for that.

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http://www.kawasakipartsnation.com/oemparts/a/kaw/50aa38c8f8700226a414673e/cowling-upper

11056, right? Looks like 2 8mm bolts to me is my '013 in the box below the meter bracket. I don't recall those being that small on any of my 14? Yep, it says 5mm so yours is 43 inch pounds max, 30inlbs minimum. Whadda know?

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No plastic, no washers or bushings. Steel on steel flanged bolt. Nut looks like some kind of a lock nut. The original part was discontinued and had flanged cap nuts. Part number is 92154b on the bolt and 92015 on the nut. No plastic anywhere. It looks like its the main support bracket for the nose. The bracket is holding a good portion of the weight of the nose. I was originally thinking 20 to 30 lbs of torque. Yes there are two. Yes they are 8mm.

In my service manual it shows them in the frame section for the nose removal.

Oh that thing! i remember some people complaining of those nuts coming loose. i think Grn had his come loose on one of his Gen2s. The gen1 had a plastic meter bracket and i recall some reports of that cracking when the bolts were over tightened.

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I have a 2011 gen1. The bracket is definitely steel or aluminum. So you think 13lbs would do the trick? And yes it 11056.

* Last updated by: jmartin724 on 6/28/2015 @ 8:15 PM *

13 lbs is tight. I don't consider snug to be even close to 13 ft lbs and snug is good for a lot of fasteners. Don't overdo it. Use Loktite and suggested torque or a 20% less (as long as it's not internal) and just keep an eye on it. Most bolts need to be removed a number of times and there's no sense in wearing out the threads in the parts. JM.02

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/28/2015 @ 10:01 PM *

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In that case, I'll try 11 lbs and blue Loctite. Thanks guys!

Rook, page 2-11. Bottom of page. 13.5 is tight. I'd go 13; no need for locker. Why? 8 years of the same hanger and same 2 bolts I don't care what size, do they spin right off no locker? Righteayo one or two bikes out of 1000ands.

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Ok Hub! Thanks

I'm sure the book is right on the money but a little loose on external stuff never hurts. You're the one who schooled me on that, Hubster....then again what are the chances he's going to ever need to take these screws out? 13 ft lbs and no loktite or 11 and use blue loktite. Either way, they should be fine.

I can only think of one time that I ever had a torqued bolt come loose. That was my rear rotor bolts and I think it was because they were TI. That's the only thing I use both Loktite and torque on. The SM suggests both torque and loktite for a few parts. I have a small concern about snapping a head off a bolt when removing it if torque and loktite are used together. I had that happen on an M5 bolt. Over-torqued a bit but no loktite so I'd say that about equals specced torque with loktite. You never know when you might have a weak bolt.

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That screw pitch bite keeps cars together, yes? No fender bolt [stick'em] was used back in the day, nor are the engine cover bolts having a problem falling out of our bike, right? If you want to use locker on such a fine/tiny thread, only run it over 2 threads at the end/beginning, meaning, so the nut just kisses the first thread it goes around, the back threads are dry and will spin off easier. You glob a huge drop and that now covers all the threads. So with the threads in that archimedes bind, a thread of blue, buddaboombuddabing.

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/29/2015 @ 9:13 AM *

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There are always those instances when you should not use thread locking agent. Wellnuts for one and those screws that thread into spinning inserts like the ones for the bulkhead doors (remember, you schooled me on those, too).

No fender bolt [stick'em] was used back in the day, nor are the engine cover bolts having a problem falling out of our bike, right?

I know you're talking about cars here but it's funny you should mention those two examples because those are two instances where my bike's bolt seem to loosen up. The front fender is a definite must for loktite, especially the back bolts that go into the fork bottoms. The valve cover is another place the bolts seem to loosen up. I'll have to keep my eye on the valve cover screws this time. I think that's the whole reason the Gen 1 leaked there. Both times I checked bolt tightness on the valve cover they were less than snug. It's not a place I would use thread locking agent because they go into the engine but it sure pays to check them once in a while.

* Last updated by: Rook on 6/29/2015 @ 9:59 AM *

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