Just curious.

I'm considering trading mine in/selling and buying a new one.

Just want to make sure i don't lose too much HP. Mine dyno'd 196 btw

Slo,

Unless you dyno'd yours on a certified dyno, and the folks responding to this also used the same 'type' certification' and dyno, you won't be able to compare the numbers.

As exampled, I've found that certified dynojet cells produce within a HP or so from each other, at least on the four I have used. Non-dynojet cells have produced diff numbers, meaning way off/different, like perhaps by 10-15 HP higher. I know a few folks who have used Thunders dyno, and their numbers were considerably higher than mine, by about 15-20, but when they came and dyno'd on the same as mine, I was about 6 HP higher than their bikes, collectively. They were pretty surprised at the 'loss' of HP on their bikes, when actually they had not lost anything.

* Last updated by: JDC on 6/30/2009 @ 7:10 PM *

Slowninja, ain't nothing wrong with 196! I could only wish. Anyway, why trade now? I realize the economy is bad and this could be a pipe dream but...why not wait until September when Kawi releases the 2010 model info. It seems like Kawi likes to do their big updates on the big bores every 4 model years. We are due now. Hopefully, more than just paint and graphics. Maybe an OEM supercharged 14 for 2010! OK...OK I am dreaming too big now.

If thats the bike they release in 2010 i'll buy a suzuki!

2010 is supposed to be factory TURBOED

Slowninja wrote:

If thats the bike they release in 2010 i'll buy a suzuki!

I agree with you. That concept is uglier than sin.

I could see the turbo as they have a history with them but I doubt a supercharger.

Government and insurance companies will put the big kybosh on factory turbo or superchargers to save us all from doom and gloom.

If thats the bike they release in 2010 i'll buy a suzuki!

LMAO! That ugly pipe looks like they stole it off the ZX-10. Whoever designed that atrocity should be taken out back of the factory and shot!

J/K but it is an ugly pipe.

Kruz

Badzx14r wrote:

2010 is supposed to be factory TURBOED

Not considering the additional cost, wouldn't it be better to install the turbo you want to a G1 or G2 rather than to have a factory turbo? I mean, you can get all the hp you want if your willing to pay ~$10,000 (and probabley more for engine beef up). I think I saw one after market turbo that claimed to make 800 hp. <<Kawi or nobody aint going to give us anything close stock.

Rook

* Last updated by: Rook on 7/1/2009 @ 8:53 AM *

177.60 HP 103.74 TQ 09 zx14 Brocks pipe and track map ..

Did you pull the flys on the 09 Smokin ?

hell its about time you came to our little world smokin!

It's still really hard for me to understand how you run those numbers. If the 09 is the same as in your sig, i made almost 20 more hp and 7 more tq, had a 1.46 60' so surely thats not a 'problem' and only went 5.85 on mine at 123. only went 9.02 @ 155 same pass too.

Enlighten me

getting hung on dyno numbers slowninja .. dyno's don't win races .. you 2 got the same mph... smokin just out e.t you .. i would chalk that up to rider weight and gearing and skillz.. and i don't think 2 tracks have a same timing set-up either.. i think they all are off 1 way or another .. BUT unless the 2 of ya'll were running heads-up same track same day ...don't even try compairing

* Last updated by: Badzx14r on 7/1/2009 @ 12:47 PM *

Yes the flys are removed ..

Slowninja
I don't know what to tell you ...

I'm just tryin to get better lol

need all the help i can get.

I just got done running Tommys 06 zx14 on the dyno , Brocks Smeg, Track Map, 87 pump gas, BMC race filter .. 175.15 HP 100.56 TQ ..

Damn.

Guess i need to stop bein scared of that clutch hand...

Slow with your built motor a stocker of any year will feel slow. Put the money into boosting your current ride and you'll have more power than you'll ever need. It gets old getting little gains here and there...and always wanting more. Boost is a one time scratch for that itch

Boost is a one time scratch for that itch

bawahabawahabawhawaha

Slowninja,

"It's still really hard for me to understand how you run those numbers. If the 09 is the same as in your sig, i made almost 20 more hp and 7 more tq, had a 1.46 60' so surely thats not a 'problem' and only went 5.85 on mine at 123. only went 9.02 @ 155 same pass too.

Enlighten me"

Slo,

It's almost impossible to compare (your or any others) bikes dyno numbers, unless you are coming off of the same dyno as the other guy, then you'll have some fairly representative number, for comparison to that bike/bikes, and that's about it. The numbers won't be exact, but pretty close. So your 196 number, higher or lower than another persons off different dynos, even given you have a reasonable tune, don't mean anything, except if you want to argue a "numbers' point of view over beers, for those lost souls who want to do that. O:

But for you, if that number of yours changes due to a mod with tunning to it, then that is info for you, about how that particular mod benefits your bike, or not. And chances are that if that mod effects your bike with that power/TTD increase/decrease, it would effect about any other 14, equiped the same as your, with the same 'about' tune, similarly.

Almost any OEM bike, tested on a same dyno, will likely give you about the very same numbers. Once you move away to different dyno types, un-certified, you can get wildly different numbers. Dynojet keeps their dynos fairly consistent between one another (certified: maintained and settings), so they have pretty good inter and intra-reliability with and between their dynos. With dynojet I used the word reliability and not accuracy. "Reliability" because with their maintained certified dynos, the same bike comes up with very close number, on the same dyno, run after run, or dyno to dyno, given atmosphereic changes. That is called 'reliability' in terms of 'testing'. However, that is no indication that their numbers are the 'correct' numbers, as compared to any non-dynojet, or undertified dynojet dyno, which is a demonstration of "accuracy". Who knows who's dyno, or what dyno has the output numbers are the 'true' numbers.

So, from my perspective, use a dyno to obtain a base for your bike, HP-TQ numbers not mattering, and then you have your base line to know if your mods are about getting you in the "ballpark" for that particular mod. So that baseline number becomes your initial comparison number, for future reference.

Almost all modern same equiped bikes will respond to the same mod with the same increase/decrease on HP/TQ - TTD, dependant on altitude and tuner. From there, after the mods, it becomes fine tuning that can dial in the best TTD. It's pretty easy to get lost in chasing the HP-TQ 'numbers', which can be very misleading, and other than when used for just your bike and changes you make to it, is sorta useless. So mod and tune for best TTD (not HP-TQ), if you are looking for best TTD.

TTD seems to be what you are looking for as I get your post. Hope I understood you correctly.

So beyond your mods/equip for the task, and a good, spot on tune, atmosphere, if all those are 'good' and have been appropriately considered, you'er largely left with technique for lower TTD's.

I have seen pretty dramatic changes in TTD's, just by a change in A/F of .1

* Last updated by: JDC on 7/2/2009 @ 12:20 PM *