I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible (outside of reflashing the ECU) to change the fast-idle speed? I've installed a Akro 4-2-1 full system, PC5, ignition system, TRE and K&N air filter and set the normal idle to ~1,000RPM.

But, during start up it used to idle around 2,000RPM and is now hitting 2,500+ RPM which seems a bit high to me (1,500 is a lot more reasonable IMO). My main concern for wanting to do it is the same reason you don't jump on the gas when the bike is cold, cleaerences are still out and oil isn't flowing as well as it could/should.

You probably didn't set you TPS and idle speed. Do a search on this forum. I use Ivan settings!

Yes, you can change the idle speed. Mark in your [own's manu] book how that tiny screw was positioned before you go messing with the factory setting. When the actuator ratchets open the main plates, it ramps at that plate up to your 2,500 rpm. You want to experiment with it or would you rather ride the hours away you looking like a squid letting a worn in bike expand and all that?

Are you going to take off like a squid blasting the neighbors, or will you putt away to warm it up? No, I want to sit in my driveway and run the hours I could have been slowly putting to point B. I want to freshen the air is sit here at point A so as to not work me down the road upon start up.

Does my act look like I deserve to ride this bike is someone calling me a squid is step on my calamari carbit and make 3 wish is I never modded my bike and have to deal wit disshit. WATT a NIGHTMARE!

So in order to close this out, its actually really easy to adjust the fast idle. I was checking my valves and had the throttle bodies out and decided to try and figure out how exactly the ECU automatically opens up the throttle.

The ECU, upon initial startup of the bike opens up the sub throttle plates quite a bit, if you look at the left hand side (cable side) of the throttle bodies, you can see the part that has the throttle cables attached that actuates the main throttle plates. When the subs are opened up, it turns another piece right above the part with the cables, which actually pushes the main throttle plates open (take the fairings off, turn the bike on, but don't start and watch these parts and you'll see what I mean).

So, in order to adjust the idle, there's a little "screw" that has a spring around it, and just above that there's 2 nuts. Back off the top nut and turn the bottom nut out by about a 1/4 to 1/2 of a turn then hold the bottom nut and lock the top nut. As Hub said, mark the original location of the nuts on the throttle body so you can go back to the original settings if necessary, the top nut is painted in place and was a pain to break free.

A 1/4 turn changed my idle from 2,500RPM down to about 2,100RPM.

I wonder if this is my current Cold idle issue? When the motor is stone cold it doesnt idle on it own, but as soon as I get a little bit of heat in the motor it runs perfect.

"stone cold it doesn't idle on it own"...what does this mean?It dies?If so...you need to raise yer adjustment screw(the one in the black rubber line that goes down by the case)...But any final adjustment needs to be done with a warmed up motor....1050 to 1100 rpms on warm idle.That should work when she's stone cold...it should immediately go into fast idle at startup,then drop.I'm guessing you have a Gen1 bike...by your avatar there?Also...how about that airfilter?Clean?It needs to be if it isn't.

OOPS...sorry...you have TWO 14's...which one is acting up?You have that 2013....if THAT's the one...you do have all the canister lines connected,right?(in the right side fairing(s))The purge valve is hooked up?Any yellow 'check engine' lamp lighting at startup and staying on?

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 3/4/2014 @ 8:56 PM *

Mine has always idled about normal when first started on a very cold engine...like 20-30F. After about 40 seconds of warming the idle starts to speed up to fast idle. Then it will drop back to normal idle after it runs a couple minutes and reaches 2 bars.

My car does the same routine when it is very cold. fast idle comes on gradually, then slows to norm.

Good advice Grn14, if the issues were seen after mods (ie Kolk1's hindle exhaust) could be something as simple as a lack of back pressure causing difficulty in idling. I'm pretty happy with the results I got, tuned it some more and I've got her humming around the 1500-1600rpm when cold/fast idle and 900-1000rpm when warmed. I have had the idle set that low for years and no issues with stalling. Now I just need to wait for the ice to melt so I can get her out and ride her.

For anyone trying to find the screw...

The adjustment screw is pretty easy to find, with the foreman grills removed, locate the throttle cables, the part of the throttle bodies that move with the cables has an "arm" if you look right above this arm you will see a screw with 2 nuts on it, back off the top nut, and adjust the bottom nut then retighten the top nut.

If you're having trouble finding the screw, turn the ignition on (don't bother starting the bike) and you will see the screw move to prop the main throttle plates open.

Thanks Nightmare! I shall giver a try this weekend.

For anyone who wants to know what it looks like...

* Last updated by: Fazer on 3/20/2014 @ 10:48 AM *