Hi Guys, just would like some feed back, I have just got the new 2012 ZZR1400 about two weeks ago and have done 500 miles, I have been sticking to what Kawasaki Recommend of 600 miles 4000 RPM then 1000 miles at 6000 RPM but my dealer advises me to do 500 miles 5000rpm and increase for every 100 miles by a 1000RPM, what have you guys done and has it improved the working of the engine?

Run it hard, Click Here

As per the manual, every time. Been doin' this for 30+ years and never an issue. Listen to the guys that built your bike. NOBODY but NOBODY knows better than they do. JMO

I run it somewhere in the middle, as long as you warm it up it should be fine to do most things, I mean i would not nail it to the red-line the first time I got on it, but most important thing is to vary your speed, don't stay at one speed, go up and down slowly, and when its warmed up, don't be afraid to get it going a little, if you are going to ride more aggressively than the manual, I would suggest changing the oil at around 100 miles, and then at 600, its an easy job on the 14R I have been breaking my bikes in this way for over 30 years, and NEVER had a problem

Thanks guys for the input and taking the time to help me. Ive racked up a few miles today so tomorrow it goes in for its 600 service so im nearly there now.
All the best and no doubt speak to you all soon

Here's another vote for *by the book*.
Pegscraper worded it perfectly.

Hey Gents,

This article is well worth a read

http://www.ashonbikes.com/content/running

"So should you? Or shouldn’t you? The brand new bike parked outside is gleaming. You’ve just polished it for the third time today, it looks gorgeous in the sun and seeing as you’ve spent the biggest part of nine grand buying it, naturally you want to look after it as best you can. You’ll get it serviced, keep it clean, lock it up... but how about the engine? This is possibly the single most complex and finely made mechanical device you will ever buy, it’s by far the most expensive component on your bike, and you not only want it to last, you want it to perform to its full potential.

So should you run it in? And just as important, how? Ask ten mates and you’ll get ten answers, then another five from your dealer, the manufacturer, a workshop mechanic, a magazine helpline and the back of a special running-in oil container. For once, and at last, we have the definitive answer, which includes how to do it and for how long, but first we’ll justify how we arrive at that by taking a look at what really happens when you run a brand new engine in the early stages of its life."

Hey Gents,
This article is well worth a read

2ND, Good read. Seems that supports both methods with no clear direction for or against.

It is true though, as many riders suggest, that you can be too gentle with an engine. Use it too lightly and the moving surfaces won’t generate enough heat to alter their composition, with the bore lacquering problem mentioned earlier hindering things even more. The engine simply won’t wear enough to conform its components or stabilise its surfaces and will remain in an odd as new condition for all its life, during which time it will wear faster and use more oil. Also, because its internal friction will be higher and the piston rings won’t have conformed or had their surfaces stabilised, there will be increased blow by, where cylinder pressure is lost to the crankcase past the rings, and power will be down compared with a run in engine.

I've broke in all 3 of my ZX-14s with the Run It Hard method I have listed above. 2nd bike got Turbo straight away. 2012 14R only has 800 km on it. I don't know how many times to red line but I can assure you it was every chance I got. Great bikes luv em.

These Engines Are Tuff. Still hearing they have oiling design flaws though. I'm going to install the Muzzy billet Oil pump plate before boosting this new one,,, Just in case.

Hmmmm, good info below confirmed by someone in the know.

So the consequence of using a synthetic too early is your engine will never run in properly. I would even suggest waiting until 10,000 miles (16,000km) before using it in most engines subjected to normal use. Until then, you’re best to use an inexpensive but branded mineral oil.”

So, save money by using a cheaper oil when your engine is new, it will run in properly and you will improve its longevity, power output and oil consumption. Can’t be bad, and that comes from people whose interest is in selling you expensive synthetics.

* Last updated by: Romans on 10/8/2012 @ 6:37 PM *