So I removed the battery to charge it for the first time (wasn't home for several months, no tender), and now that I am putting it back I have the dumbest question. The negative is bolted to the frame, but for the positive (the one that has the blue connector)...where does the eyelet of that cable go? Looks like it needs to be bolted too (same type of eyelet as the negative cable) but I can't remember where...Genius....feel free to laugh first, but then please help me :)

Ok ok :)
Here you go, eyelet outlined in yellow - thx!

* Last updated by: gseattle on 6/30/2012 @ 12:29 AM *

Hub,
any chance you can circle on the pic where the yellow ringed is supposed to attach after you run up under the fairing? Thanks

Same spot. Get's grounded.

Got it! Thanks!

YW.

The factory service manual actually shows the frame bonding jumper (the one with the blue plug) going against the frame first with the battery jumper sitting on top.

Does it make a difference?

Does it make a difference?

Apparently not. This pic was taken the first time I pulled the cover... Bike was brand new, and it was on the outside.

Thanks - by the way is 12.4V acceptable? According to the manual, anything below 12.8V is low, however bike starts without any problem.

Dogo, I'd suspect that the person responsible for assembling your bike at the dealership didn't bother following the written instruction regarding the battery installation. I'm sure it happens every day.

Accuracy and precision tend to be the first casualities when we stop expecting competence and settle for 'good enough'.

edit to add link:

Here's a PDF from Kawasaki with some good battery information to print out and keep in your tool box if you so desire:

http://www.kawasaki.com/SITE/SLServiceLibrary/techtraining/videos/TechTipBattCharged.pdf

* Last updated by: Fowvay on 7/1/2012 @ 12:16 PM *

Dogo, I'd suspect that the person responsible for assembling your bike at the dealership didn't bother following the written instruction regarding the battery installation. I'm sure it happens every day.

Accuracy and precision tend to be the first casualities when we stop expecting competence and settle for 'good enough'.

Could be. However, I don't suscribe to the idea that everything in the FSM is always right... Sorry Hub.

On top of that, I had that bike on my lift and in pieces with only 100 miles on the odo... Found several things that coulda been done better or were just flat out wrong.

Fixt: Battery PDFLink

* Last updated by: DogoZX on 7/1/2012 @ 12:25 PM *

at the end of the day it must boil down to whoever assembles it. I'd be curious to disassemble a hundred bikes and look at the differences :)

Yes Hub, that drawing along with the photograph in section 16-30 also shows the correct harness routing. Unfortunately this also points out other discrepancies relating to the harness routing of Dogo's bike when he purchased it.

This certainly answers the original posters question about harness routing though.

Guys, would you recommend I go back and put the frame bonding jumper first?

You better have more than 12.4 V when running. More like 13.8-14.2. If you read battery voltage while the bike is running your charging system ain't working.

Mad