Put the key in...push down a bit and nothing...wont turn at all...any ideas?

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Not uncommon. Mine lasted about 3 years before the problem got real bad. First used graphite powder lube which worked for a while then it stuck so bad I bent the key twisting.

I suggest some DeepCreep which is made by the Sea Foam company. After you get it open, remove the cap and replace with an aftermarket quarter turn gas cap. if you don't want to spend over $30, I recommend the cheap ones from China though they will take a couple months to arrive (though you may not have that much time if you're riding now). Try Ebay for any low cost cap or if you want the lightest, try EvoTech. Light Tech is good too. Evo probably a tiny bit lighter.

Don't wait long. Even after Deep Creep, it will start to freeze again. That cap is toast. If you can't open it, you can't remove it.

Try pressing down on the cap while you turn if your not doing that.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/6/2016 @ 7:28 PM *

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I tried graphite then wd40....what happens if it wont open?

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Are you applying a lot of downward pressure on the gas cap, the part that actually opens, as you turn the key? This usually helps.

* Last updated by: chrly on 2/6/2016 @ 8:00 PM *

Yes...ive tried everything...i even took the bolts off the cap and tried turning it and pushing it around...nothing

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I think the locking cap is held by the cap being closed when all the bolts are out so it can't be removed by only removing the bolts when the cap is locked. I replaced mine with a screw-in cap BEFORE it jammed. You are probably looking at drilling out the lock cylinder to get it open and THEN replacing with a screw-in cap. Best if you remove the tank, drain all the fuel and fill the tank with water before you drill. Unlike liquid gasoline, fumes are HIGHLY EXPLOSIVE even in small amounts, so a spark or hot shard off the end of the drill could spell catastrophe.

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If it came to drilling that might be one thing I'd hire done (or whatever a professional would do to get it open). Even draining all the fuel, there's sitll going to be fumes in there. One spark or stray smoking shaving and I can see your tank expanding to a deformed mess.

My gas cap has been acting up a little. I've noticed what looks like calcium or lime build up around the edge of the keyhole. I don't recall having this problem with my old bike or other vehicles. I tried some lithium grease and it's seemed to help but it does concern me it's going to get stuck one of these days.

I think the locking cap is held by the cap being closed when all the bolts are out so it can't be removed by only removing the bolts when the cap is locked.

Yes, removing the bolts might actually make the latch bite down a little harder. The latch is a 1/8" thick tooth that hooks under the lip of the filler neck on the tank. Keep the fuel tank cap ring bolted down flat to avoid any additional drag on the locking mechanism.

I would try squirting in a bunch of DeepCreep to displace as much WD-40 as possible. DeepCreep eats corrosion and that is most likely what is causing the lock to stick.

If it came to drilling that might be one thing I'd hire done (or whatever a professional would do to get it open).

Hell yeah. Let someone else blow their ass up. I would not use any kind of intense heat on it, not even a heat gun.

I believe you can get this open on your own. Don't give up yet. Keep an eye on the key--don't break it off in there. Maybe head to the dealership right away to order a new key. There is a key # that you will need to disclose for Kaw to make the key.

My gas cap has been acting up a little. I've noticed what looks like calcium or lime build up around the edge of the keyhole. .... I tried some lithium grease and it's seemed to help but it does concern me it's going to get stuck one of these days.

I had the same sort of whitish residue on mine. Lubes will improve it for a while. If the bike sits, you'll probably notice the problem comes back even with the lock full of lube. I would put an aftermarket cap at the top of your shopping list, Vic.

I have my gas cap removed and can make pics for you if necessary to see how the thing works.

You see the latch in this pic--the tooth sticking out the the left. Looks like there is a second tooth on the right. You can replace the lock but I would not bother.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/7/2016 @ 11:10 AM *

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I'd order a few new keys and just keep twisting on it until it frees up. DeepCreep...it really is different stuff. Crawls right into tight cracks and crevices on its own. eats corrosion.

* Last updated by: Rook on 2/7/2016 @ 11:17 AM *

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Im going to take it by a locksmith tomorrow just to see what he can do...

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Good idea. No matter what he does, I would keep it open, remove and replace. It will come back. Vortex makes a key lock gas cap and it is very light even though it has a lock. I believe the lock is external so it probably is not effected like the OEM cap is. i have a Chinese 1/4 turn that requires a key though it would be easy to open without if you how it works---it's about the same weight as OEM.

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Where Rook shows the empty 3 screw holes to the tank cap assembly? Loosen those up, key up and see what happens? Press up and down on the cap as you try it. So I removed my OE gas cap assembly back onto the OE tank it came with. I go to trade it in, the tech goes thru the bike. As the paperwork is being filled out, they come back and tell me it's an extra 300 dollars; they can't get the cap up. I said stop the paperwork I'm out of here. You know they were making bank on my deal so they had to eat it. Same silver tank looks like. I put a vortex on the ebay tank and couldn't trust the new OE too much after that experience.

I'm cleaning up the garage, find an old harley switch assembly. I have a key but the wrong cut. I pull it apart, remove the #2 parts till I can see the key move those few left that are sunk almost flush to the #7 tumbler so it turns out of those groves. So 'key' to this job is have the smith remove those springs and tabs where you have about 2 left so the tumble; has less stuck #2's seen in this generic key assembly diagram.

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Had to drill it out...thx for the comments...

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The first pic has no key and the locking wafer is engaged. This pic is a common removable cylinder core you would find in furniture. To remove them without damaging or drilling you require a control/core/puller key. The last wafer/tumbler is what locks the core into the cylinder hole. There is a grove at the end of the hole that this wafer slips into. Sometimes if you have a thin pick that will fit down the key way you can trip the wafer out of the groove and pulling at the same time the core may come out. This pic is a core with puller key in it. I'm thinking Kawasaki has a similar set up. The task is to get ahold of a puller key? I bet the dealer has one or a lock smith? I have a selection of approx 40 control/puller/core keys that I use regularly at work. HTH. it

* Last updated by: CowboyCarl on 2/11/2016 @ 10:30 AM *

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The problem with that it, if you can't get the tunbler to release and turn, it may still be jammed in the cylinder. And that's assuming they don't use a cylindrical pin to hold the tunbler in the cylinder.

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Most times the cylinder/lock has to be has to be in the open position to be removed. Some puller keys also double as a master to facilitate removal. Some do get stuck! WD 40 sometimes helps. Some get damaged and are a pita to remove. Sometimes I use the thin edge of a glazing bar on the lip of the core to help pry it out. I would be nervous to drill out the gas cap core for obvious reasons. It just makes more sense and safer to try this first.

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I think he drilled it out, CC.
Carry a screwdriver and pop the OE open or a vortex and be done with it.

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I've had that happen before, squirted a little Marvel Mystery oil in lock cylinder, let it sit, do it again abou 4-5 times until lock cylinder is full. Let that sit overnight and next day lock opened fine.

I know he drilled out the lock, I am posting this suggestion for anyone else who might have the same problem. Have used the same method for old car trunk locks, never didn't work.

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Man I love that stuff. No shop should be without it. Has saved my ass many times with stuck rusted fasteners.