So after much tinkering here is where I am at. I have the front preload set to 1.5 turns in (firmer), than stock. Rebound on BOTH forks (the little gold adjusters) MUST be adjusted in sync. My rebound is two clicks FIRMER than stock. My compression damping is adjusted 1 click firmer than stock. Same rules apply, both adjusted in sync. Rear shock preload has been increased 1 full turn of the adjuster ring. Now the twitchy fall into small radius corners is gone. The front end feels planted and stable over even rough roads. The rear feels stable but does squirm under the restraints of the tc at lean. This during post apex cornering leads to a tightening of your line if you don't keep a stable push hand. Less is more and the bike is sooo capable! I find turn in stable and sharp and the higher the speed the more planted. I would say the front end is wayyy more confidence inspiring now. I will continue to tinker and share my findings. Just my observations and I hope they help.

* Last updated by: Cblast on 4/3/2013 @ 11:20 PM *

Have I mentioned what a gargantuan beast this motor is! It is amazing that this does everything it does this well in STOCK form!
I brought her down to my dealer and they quoted me right about $200 for the first service including parts. I thought about it and just grabbed a K&N filter and 4 quarts of amsoil and decided to do it myself. Easiest oil change I have ever done! She had right at 500 miles on her and the oil was done. The filter was a whore to get off without dinging anything. But the oil change can be accomplished without removing anything! Makes it nice! Buttoned her back up and the difference is noticeable. I like the way the gears shift smoother and the clutch takes up smoother as well. +1 for the Amsoil! :)

Just changed my oil to full synthetic, havent had a chance to take it out yet, but the "clunk" going into first gear was noticeably less ... went with Motul 7100 because I had a gift card to burn at cycle gear ...

Amsoil is great, Motul 300V Ester might be a little better. A lot of people think the upgrade to full synthetic is a placebo effect but the absence or reduction of noise while shifting and being able to downshift from 6th to 1st with no drama can't be! My bike hate the Castrol non synthetic 10W40 for some reason.

I had castrol 10-40 dino in there too, and with the motul it does shift better, the castrol seemed REALLY thin when pouring it in, compared to the motul, never used motul, looks like transmission fluid !

#1 on that 7100 Motul.Very good oil IMO.Sa'll I use...

Allright! I might try the motul as well. All the research on it turns up nothing but good stuff! I like silkolene as well! Top shelf! Thought I would give amsoil a try and no complaints! She shifts very smooth!

7100 Motul

Amsoil is great, Motul 300V Ester might be a little better.

Wolfman, you cant go wrong with either one of them, even though I am using Motul, I think Amsoil may be even a bit better, not trying to insight a riot either LOL !

Lol Carabuser, thank you.

I did the first oil at 500, next is 1000, then and only after 6000 can I put synthetic oil in her. This is the advice I've got.

Just a point of interest I only have 734 km on her right now.

Wman

Yo Cblast, I can do anything when it comes to the mechanics of engines and whatnot but suspension tuning is one of the few things that are wayyyy over my head. So, I've got a question for you, man. I used what you have here for a starting point plus adjusted the rebound and dampening a hair tighter on the rear suspension as well.
It rides through the corners fricken amazingly and sticks to whatever line I pick with little effort, but, when I am getting on the throttle hard as I exit the corner and right about when I set it upright the whole front end suddenly feels squirrelly almost wobbly? What gives bro? Like I said suspension tuning is outa my league. Any suggestions on what I may need to adjust to correct it? Or is it just me being a pansy and not used to that kind of power coming out of a corner? I'd greatly appreciate any insight you can offer, bro.

-BN

* Last updated by: nasty on 4/29/2013 @ 8:09 PM *

Front end squirrellyness at 90+ scares me a little.

No problem nasty! Hey you have just discovered what I found at the limit on exits once i had my front end dialed close. Sounds as though you ride aggressively as I do. So I suggest you add slightly more rear preload. When experiencing the same thing as you describe, a little more weight on the front end and a little less squat is required. So if you are happy with turn in and stability, taking it one step at a time is the fix. First I would add 1 turn or rear spring preload. Ride for several miles through different corners and let me know how it feels. We can re-assess at that point. For me, hopping off a Ducati and into this bike was simply a learning exercise in set-up and I do believe she handles better than a 1098 with suspension. What this will do is add a little weight to that front end as you roll on the throttle she should squat less and track better.

* Last updated by: Cblast on 4/29/2013 @ 9:21 PM *

That's the big locking ring that you adjust with a long screwdriver and a hammer. Just mark both rings with a sharpie before adjusting and re lock to marks. I wrap my screwdriver handle in tape and tap through the frame hole is the best angle.

Thanks Cblast. I'll get to it tomorrow and let ya know how it turns out. I figured it might have had to do with the rear preload but wasn't sure. It was actually the only thing I didn't change. I got frustrated and pissed with the lack of space to get a hook spanner down in there to turn the collars and was reluctant to use the old screwdriver and hammer method but I'll just have to get over it and do it that way. Thanks again for your insight, sharing friendly advice and knowledge like this is the whole reason I joined this forum.

May I ask what you weigh? I could probably offer a ballpark on how much to add with that info, then I will also know if any other front end compensation is required. And hey, no problem man!! Same reason I joined this place!

Around 210

Okay, you need approximately 1.2 - 1.4 turns more preload than stock and probably 5 lines showing on the front, maybe even 5 lines + .5 of a turn on the front. I would adjust the rear. Make sure I am slightly on the stuff side of 5 lines on the front and ride for feel!

Much better thanks Cblast. I went one full turn past stock but I think I might need a little more. The front end squireliness was not nearly as severe. It takes more effort to get it feeling loose. Also I wrecked my license plate today with a botched wheelie in a crosswind, dumb move on my part, not sure how I got the plate though. I know the front came down way too hard.

I am glad that helped! Sorry about that wheelie, fing crosswinds! If you go 1/3 - 1/2 turn more you will probably be good to go!

Cblast! I finally got me an elephant! Thanks for guiding me in the right direction for tuning the suspension. I tightened the rear preload another 1/3 turn yesterday. Also another thing I found yesterday that made a big difference when I was doing the 600 mile service, checked my tire pressure and both were way up to 48psi! WTF! Lowered it down to 41psi for now. Ha I should have checked that sooner. Now she handles like a dream totally effortlessly, much better grip from the rearend and the front stays more planted allowing me to be more relaxed, focused, and fluid, simpley letting the bike do its part while I do mine. We are one now.
I did not know this fat sow had the potential be about as agile as a bike half it's size in the corners.

Exactly!!!!! You got it right there Nasty my brother!!! I would now take very careful note of the exact suspension settings all around the bike in the same notebook where you write service notes and if you need to reference or a starting point you have it sir! That is a beautiful pic! Spanked that elephant!!!!

I can't more emphatically agree! This bike with correct setup and an aggressive rider will outride almost everything if at speed you play to her strengths (ie: stability, composure, POWER), and minimize the time through the apex via firm transitions and smoothness, she will fing ride around the outside!!!! I love this machine!!!!

You nailed yer plate cause the rear end compressed on takeoff...more preload.Or avoid hard takeoffs(wheelies).Sounds like your front end 'wiggle' is happening because the front is getting light on ya...and yer holding on too tight ?????You look at all the high speed videos...TT comes to mind...the wiggle is NORMAL....watch those guys...you'll see.IDK if they're 'holding on too tight'...but the wiggle is definitely common.

I've run stiffened suspension settings...and softer settings...every setting allows a front end wiggle under the right conditions.I'm 170 fully geared.

* Last updated by: Grn14 on 5/3/2013 @ 9:03 AM *

"No problem nasty! for me, hopping off a Ducati and into this bike was simply a learning exercise in set-up and I do believe she handles better than a 1098 with suspension."

I had a 1198SP before buying the 14R and IMO the Duc will creme the 14 EVERYWHERE, exept on outright top speed obviously. Yes, the 14R's handling is remarkable for a 260kg+ machine but a correctly setup 10/1198 is at the top of a different class. For a fast blast through the twisties be they tight hairpins or fast open sweepers the 1198 was probably the best handling sportsbike I've ever owned/ridden and the explosive punch out of the bends was unmatched IMO but that's ALL it did well. It cuts you no slack with comfortable ergonomics or everyday practicalities. When you were in the mood for a leisurely cruise on the motorway or a steady bimble around town it was an absolute PITA. It was just too hardcore for me personally for everyday use. IMO the 14R is probably one of the best ALLROUND roadbikes out there and that is it's trump card. It suits me right down to the ground but I'm under no illusions when it comes to mixing it with the creme of the litre superbikes.