Is there anybody out there with credentials that can tell me about how many miles it takes to break the motor in? I'v done a lot of research on oil and it seems that Amsoil is the best. Now I want to know when I should start using it.

http://www.freeoilinfo.com/full_story.php?art_id=8&&group_id=4;

There are hundreds of opinions but I would like one from a reputable source. No offense to all who have offered their opinions.

* Last updated by: mymonster on 11/12/2010 @ 7:59 PM *

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HHmmmm...maybe the Kawasaki Manual "break-in procedure"?I followed that.42,700+miles. ZERO ENGINE PROBLEMS.

As you said...lots of opinions on that.Usually,about the time length and rpm guidelines.I had mine at 1000 miles within the first several days.Followed the Owner's Manual and dash sticker to a tee.Frequent stops for 15,20 minutes at a time(frequent meaning,around every 70 or so miles).Towards the end of each 500 mile "adjustment"(according to the sticker and book)...I found a nice long downhill run and took er up to the "high rpm" for that period and then allowed the engine to coast in gear,and downshifted accordingly and coast in gear down to around 10,15 MPH,then back up again.Just to "seat" the valves.Did this a few times during break-in.IDK if it seated the valves?But she burns NO oil.And runs all the way to the limiter without a peep.Engine performance is as perfect as it can be....smooth as glass and strong as an ox.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 11/12/2010 @ 8:28 PM *

The manuel is a great idea! But alas I've missplaced mine after moving to Alabama. Damn moving! Lol.

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Want it in a nutshell?...1st 500 miles,do not exceed 4000 rpm in any gear.500-1000 miles,do not exceed 6000 rpm in any gear.At 600 miles,you "should" have it checked by your certified Kawasaki Dealer.When restarting your bike,it should be allowed to idle for a few minutes for oil circulation,and NO racing of the engine in Neutral.Those are the "recommended" rpm values for the first 1000 miles.I changed oil 3 times during that period(with a new filter as well on the second change)...the 4th change at about 1000 miles was to full synthetic....10/40 Kawachem(motul)with new filter.

4 quarts exactly with NO filter change.4 quarts + maybe about 1/4 quart give or take WITH a filter change.Oil level in sightglass when holding bike vertical...upper level line.(do NOT check or adjust oil level with your bike on a REAR STAND.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 11/12/2010 @ 11:35 PM *

Thank you so much!

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Is there anybody out there with credentials that can tell me about how many miles it takes to break the motor in?

I do not have credentials. I have no badges, passed tests for that patch... You get the idea. Does heat kill engines? Yes. Will any oil breakdown from heat? Yes. Do you pay more for the R&D? Yes. Would you keep your oil in longer just because it is a syn or will heat again play a part about hours spent in that same heat time is heat-heat... You get the idea. Would I dump more oil with the overpriced oil that should be changed during all those heat cycles and color changes? Yes, I would dump the oils a lot sooner if we matched wasted money for more oil changes we break even.

Speaking about break the bank, that oil level is way too high. The suggested level is in the middle of the window. I run mine lower in notch. This stops the sump from feeding the air cleaner with excess oil. Running with more oil keeps that heat suspended. Say, with less oil, the transfer should be quicker. I find a dryer ram cavity with less oil that is recommended and now you take your chances swaying from book recommendations.

Engine break-in needs time because the bike has new parts and this says there is a skin surface that needs a pounding kind of breaking in as this example: Say the cam comes around and pushes the half cap under lift load and oil pressure. What that oil does is shot-peen parts sorta speak. It hammers molecules tighter together so that tolerance sort of works its way into a looser but tight fit still within tolerance.

You can feel the bike is too tight to ring it out to redline. Yes you can do it all day lone, but you sure are breaking down the oil running through a narrower gap. So, we are back to heat and a high temp bar. You wick it up, you might see the water bar rise as well. There is you tight tolerance heat.

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Somehow it became a topic about oil levels and properties.Wasn't it about "break-in time miles"?.

Fill er by the book....whatever that shows on your sightglass.That's my advice.Change it out a couple of times during your break-in...just to make sure there's a minimum of particles floatin around in there.That's what I did...you certainly don't have to if ya don't see it necessary.But it definitely won't hurt.

And NO...I've NO credentials either...only a SHWEET runnin bird.

* Last updated by: blue07 on 11/14/2010 @ 3:14 AM *

I don't have credentials, but this guy does:
Brocks Performance

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Great info!

Thanks!!!

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I feel it is MORE important to NOT allow a large carbon build-up in the cylinders above the rings.

I am no expert, but I read abstract. This to me reads physics. I do not have any source you can grab your hands on, but I am going hold said zipper in place and fill in the blank you meat and greet misISeasay, did you say if you can take a bubble of air and blow it up kind of pop the ball loon knee tick you are listening to now is remember, I take your minutes away you keep reading dishit.

If I take a breath after breath, did I destroy that breath? If I take fuel gulp after fuel gulp, can I open the valve and say shoo away less carbon or is it just blowing up a solid, a gas me liquid? How can you run less carbon on a cylinder fire for argument sake do not technical back to lean me out less fuel.

I want the yes or no and now no one shows up about starting a war with words gimme a yeast, give me an infection.... WOT's dat spell? WATT's dat spellzzzzzzzzzzzzz?????????????? Tell me you do not see it. Solid/liquid/gas me back to carbon cannot kill me/destroy me/show me ~ Yes or No; Not to allow carbon buildup if the engine is in perfect tune, perfect compression, pick an rpm, pick a fire stroke = Less Carbon of a stroke fired S/L/G:

1. Solid ~ Light Sweet Crude
2. Liquid ~ Gas So My Lean Machine = Don't go dare!
3. Gas ~ Did I blow up and did I go anywhere but melt on your piston dome and did that gas move that piston ring in between that bubble of trouble?
1. Solid ~ Meeting you hear did you remove any S?L?G???
2. Gas ~ Tre ~ WierdWaySingWorld ~ Day list is dis ting wish I had a Pee-H-D.
3. Peat the 3V the 3wV, the fucking variables I cannot get out of help! Wear out is my reality warranty!

I feel it is MORE important to NOT allow a large carbon build-up in the cylinders above the rings. This carbon can scratch your rings and cause high RPM ring “flutter.” We have seen some of the most gently broken-in engines make the LEAST power on the dyno and spray engine oil from the breather when we finally allow the engine to reach high RPM operation.

Handis me a zero slow mo call the rpm limit and you just do your WOT-ever... I have no certificate of value. No bill of goods. Not one D-Plow my ass out for one I ain't got nut in for ya... "Head back to camp."

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