Anyone notice that when starting your bike, that if you anticipate the motor firing and let go of the starter a fraction of a second too soon it dies and becomes really difficult to start? I've done it twice and end up cranking and cranking with nothing.

Is it ok to keep the button down just a bit longer to ensure it's going to start? Seems like I'm always afraid to keep the button down even a fraction of a second longer than you have to.

1. Memory locked? For the bike not to start as described, what happens if you clear the starting [memory] by shutting off the key, let it recycle thru as in, clean up the save, will it start as normal?

2. Throttle sync. Come on up any of you motherfuckers that think your bike won't start before you can pull your finger off the button it starts so fucking quick, you wonder where the yellow went went you sync your bike wit pep sea dent.

3. Nope, never had that happen ever. Yep, fucker starts amazingly fast when sunk. Lettuce be that a lesson to you sequential ignition system runner uppers come get some!

I've done that a few times as well (let go of the button too soon), but never had any problems starting the 2nd go around (maybe a fraction of a second longer than normal).

If you have a power commander check your connections, the bike will still crank without any other electronics connected (ie, no injectors, spark plugs, ECU, etc)

How many miles, Auron?
When was the last time the bike was sunk?

See how Nightmare would press again and a fraction longer?

Night, when was the last time it was sunk?... 'maybe a fraction longer?' is my guess the sync vs. miles ridden? I know my syn is slightly off. Not as fast as when freshly sunk... [goes off song quickly] after awhile.

Anyone notice that when starting your bike, that if you anticipate the motor firing and let go of the starter a fraction of a second too soon it dies and becomes really difficult to start? I've done it twice and end up cranking and cranking with nothing.

Yes. And my TB settings are within book specifaction.

I hold the throttle open on the next starter press and it lights up after a snort.

* Last updated by: hagrid on 6/13/2015 @ 3:26 PM *

Is it ok to keep the button down just a bit longer to ensure it's going to start? Seems like I'm always afraid to keep the button down even a fraction of a second longer than you have to.

Me too. Usualy not a good thing to do with the cars I've driven because the starter remains engaged and runs at engine speed which it is not designed to do. You hear a little whizzzzzzz. Not so with the 14. I'm pretty sure you can hit the starter when the motor is running. I have not tested this recently but I'm pretty sure I've accidentally pressed the starter buttom while riding. Nothing happens. There must be some kind of automatic backup to cut power to the starter when the motor runs.

I think your battery is getting ready to crap on you. This sounds just like trying to start the bike after storage and neglecting to fully charge the battery. Try charging it up once and see if it still has problems starting after ALMOST starting.

I'm pretty sure I've accidentally pressed the starter buttom while riding. Nothing happens. There must be some kind of automatic backup to cut power to the starter when the motor runs.

Our scooters have a one-way clutch in the starting system gears. That's why your getting away with it. Very different than the Bendix system on a car.

I'm kind of seeing a basic move called, 'a computer starts at 0'... pick the computer. So if you stall this bike, might not a 1 be the start is no key is turned off to wipe the RAM? So you wait for the DTT to kick in is spit that 1 to ground on the flip-flop and start all over, because it it's not 1 on the start, then we wait for the DTT, then here comes 0 and the bike starts.

You don't get it, then explain the list:

Not bad fuel = it starts right up.
Not telemetry = No codes.
Not low batt is it cranks and cranks like a mother.
Not this, not that, the fuck is if you don't see it, I'm wrong, the bike is perfect is explain away go head.

Signed,

Dithe fucking Tea TEE, tell me?

Mine cranked over many times too before the battery got so weak it slowed down. I dodn't notice it was turning any differrent than usual. A little too slow is enough to not let it start no matter how many x it cranks..

At least Hagrid seems to have had it happen.

1500 miles on the bike and battery, been on a tender the whole time and cranks like a mother.

Opening the throttle makes it start but that doesn't feel like the right thing to do. But if it's ok to keep the button down until I know it's going to start then problem solved.

Hub, I don't know what the hell you're trying to say.

* Last updated by: Auron on 6/14/2015 @ 7:27 AM *

Hub, I don't know what the hell you're trying to say.

Ever lose the radio stations in a car radio? I'll try to explain how a 'preset' works and a temporary station is 'saved.' If we install a new radio, or the battery goes dead, or say on the bike, the battery goes dead and the clock begins to blink 0000 [think digital clock] is the abstract. See how the seconds show up and then the hours kicks in and so on?

Preset:
Here is where the battery dies, the clock blinks, or the radio station you saved is now the preset the radio came with. This is more like saying it is in ROM or the setting out of the box is when you plug it in, you have to reset the preset to your station or time of day, etc.

Saved:
You would call this the RAM selected is now your station or time of day. So now it gets complicated when you reverse the engineering is to use the concept and create the abstract as you see it explaining itself to you.

ROM:
This is where ROM is a backup and RAM keeps the station and time in that position, because the power is never turned off on a clock or the choice of radio station. Only when the power is no longer holding RAM is when ROM starts the preset to reappear and you now have to time the clock and turn to your favorite station is loss of power of the RAM saved is ROM kicks back in when 'power is lost.'

RAM:
The time/stations are in a saved situation as long as the power is still humming behind the scenes, you turn the bike off (clock), the car (radio stations), etc. Here is the reverse to follow along; it gets too simple now. WATT just occurred when the key was kept on, the count of the clock stopped (crankshaft) and as if the bike was turned off, WATT was not saved but is hot and is not the saved signal when key is shut off? = 1 = ON.

RAM-Key OFF = Saved sequential [next to fire] spark = 0.
RAM-Key ON = Saved X but as if to turn the key off to ground and 'save that sequential' = 1.
(see how I use 1 for on and 0 for off and look at the key being on still = TOO SIMPLE is to mold that abstract any fucking way I want and it still makes sense to me is that I am locked in the concept of 1 equals on and 0 represents off the fucking charts WATTSaye?)

Key ON = Crank and crank and crank a 24 count X's 8 of the tone wheel so compute-compute-compute 360x8cycles of fill my binary 0000 so I can fire as if 'key off and saved,' but I now have to process as the processing keeps sending in data vs keyboom. Now, it cranks and cranks and it takes time to dump RAM and see where you are "in the crank speed," [of it], throttle position, etc. I am way ahead of you as in I am ready for your next throttle position it's so fucking fast is the calc.

So in a nutshell, I have to recalc in ON position is not a key off; saved that final dead number on the very last stroke. Since we are fighting a perfect start each and every time this thing does not waver, WHAT are we really fighting now?

We are fighting the sequential that has the throttle plate lower than the other is less fuel/air [speed event] sneaking under that circle [top and bottom] are the big open slices, right? No too much around the sidewalls of the throttle plate until it keeps opening up and now, didn't it take lightening speed to enter the chamber and there is a lag of air is all there is you think sync to sync.

This is the insight if you can catch this going on in between the pages; you read the abstract in the book. And believe me, no mechanic in a dealershit knows this kind of shit. I'd demand it I walk up to those working on a computer bike, that different animal that it is.

So if we recognize "sequential-sync," don't you stink it makes sense now?

Dis be my coming after MAV race face he's not sunk to the bone/compression checked. (cracks me up I laugh at my own jokes)

* Last updated by: Hub on 6/14/2015 @ 11:12 AM *

Opening the throttle makes it start but that doesn't feel like the right thing to do. But if it's ok to keep the button down until I know it's going to start then problem solved.

That would be a negative in computer speak. This animal is a numbers game and spits out the data like no tomorrow. As you crank, the ever so slightest throttle movement on a dead engine is a no-no. Why?

Let me put it this way... yes it will eventually start it's spitting data that fast. But on a bike like this or a computer bike/car meaning, a dead spinner and a throttle open is 'waste data' that takes more milliseconds to dispose of. The X is the dead start [low engine crank spinning up volts vs. throttle opening]; is think about it.

Would you hold that throttle open once the engine started? No. So why even move the throttle if the mechanical choke, water temp, air temp, sub position are sitting at; and not even a suck on the intake sensor is room air pressure pushing on it. Gather all those numbers dialed in and now have the throttle open on a dead engine?

This is no longer a carb needing more vacuum to suck fuel up a tube? This all about numbers of temps/vac/positions. So moving the throttle thinking you have an old-time pumper carb like a harley is dem days is obeer!

Why would I want more calc if I wipe the RAM <{key off) touch only the starter button to this preset animal; knows better than you and I as to how this thing starts. This is simple know your peas and binaries as you know your RAM and ROM.

I only follow the rules and that ?question mark? answered a lot for me is follow the rules and work the "Magicalc."

Type what you want.

I've run into exactly what Auron is reporting: engage starter on a cold engine and disengage directly before fire. Re-engage starter (throttle closed) for five more seconds with no fire.

Re-engage the starter with partial throttle opening results in self sustaining engine function.

It's happened to me twice in three years. As a result, I don't let off the starter until the engine is lit.

Type what you want.

I know. I'm finding out a lot do not get it. It's an acquired taste. I'm letting the vac gauge setup [in a new position] so there is some drying time needed. Then video 760mmHg in the sustained so you sort of get the whole picture package of watt you're riding/reading in the man you will be light years ahead of the pack.

On a technical point, I have a habit of killing the engine when waiting at a light. What are we doing that mine lights off time after time and yours keeps cranking is we did not kill the engine to ground, but kept right on cranking without killing the... and here is watt you don't get, can't figure out, never happened to me so I have no clue about long starting sessions without killing the key off or the kill switch flipped to a flop.

And I'm done withis thread.

Signed,

SNF

I've stalled my bike at a light and restarting took forever.
I'm pretty sure I had to twist the grip to get it to fire.

It's not easy to stall a 200 HP bike, but I've got mad skilz like that.

I've killed mine a couple times at lights. It's fired right off. Maybe has something to do with throttle position when it stalls, or maybe fuel since formulations change regionally, or maybe it's just variation bike to bike.

Morning start ups mine usually stalls once. It'll start in 2-3 seconds, run for a couple seconds then die. Start it again, and she's off. Just what she does. Not always, but probably 70% of the time. Never a problem warm starting. It didn't do this when I first got her, but probably after a month or two. It's one reason I actually did the tb sync, I figured that might be the issue.

But I think these bikes just have a lot of personality, or a more crude way to put it is I don't think much of Kaw's quality control. But that's part of the fun, the quirks Evora has is what makes her Evora.

When I rode it today I just made sure to watch the tach and wait until it moves. Don't see it happening again.

Good tip.

That's what she said.