This posting is targeted at Rook! Rook, as this screenshot from the Revzilla OEM parts master for the Gen 2 ZX-14R shows, the clip-on TUBE is a separate piece from the clip-on MOUNT:

This means that we could replace the stee tubes with carbon fiber tubes.

I know that carbon fiber "works" for clip-ons, because I have a genuine 100% carbon fiber HANDLEBAR on my "eround town errands bike", a Kawasaki Z125 Pro (competitor to the Honda Grom). I have had that CF handlebar on the Z125 Pro for several months, including cold weather winter riding, and it works fine.

The difference in weight between steel tubes and CF tubes is HUGE.

Another idea for your "How to remove 100 lb from your ZX-14" thread.

I'm going to have a look at this myself, but I need to know the "each" weight, diameter, and length, of the OEM tubes first, in order to do the weight comparison. Do you have those?

Jim G

Rook, I looked up the data I saved from my lightweight Yamaha R3 project:

There, I replaced the OEM clip-ons with Vortex 10-7/8" ALUMINUM clipon tubes that weigh 6.4oz ea x 2 =12.8 oz per pair = 0.8 lb per pair

I had calculated that if I ever change to CF clipon tubes, 22mmOD / 18mm ID, the weight of the pair of CF tubes = 102grams = 0.23 lb.

So, on that R3, I could save 0.8 - 0.23 = 0.57 lb! This is huge compared to many of the other mods you list in the 100 lb weight reduction thread. And this is coming from AUMINUM to CF, whereas I am thinking the ZX-14 tubes are likely steel, so the weight saving could be TWICE that, or well over a lb.

CF tubes are available on eBay and maybe even Amazon in various OD and ID sizes. The 22mm OD with 18mm ID combo is conservatively strong (wall thickness of 2mm).

CF also deadens vibration much better than steel or aluminum.

Jim G

the clip-on TUBE is a separate piece from the clip-on MOUNT:

Oh yeah--assuming your forks are not raised to high in the clamps, you can see the large bolt head that fastens the bar if you look at the inside wall of the clipon.

Another idea for your "How to remove 100 lb from your ZX-14" thread.

Thanks Jim. I sure I'll do that one being that I plan to rid the bike of the control pods as well. Shorter bars made of a lighter material would make sense. It will be necessary to somehow get threads at the inner end of the CF bar though. The clipons on the 14 do not clamp the bar like true clipons on road racing bikes do. The handlebar is fastened to the clipon by a large bolt about M8~M10, I'd say. Looks like the position is marked in the parts fiche but you would need to scroll up in the fiche to see the bolt. Also, there needs to be threads for the bolt that holds the bar end weight if you use those. I like having some small bar end on the 14 for looks.

I am thinking the ZX-14 tubes are likely steel, so the weight saving could be TWICE that, or well over a lb.

You are probably right. I never tried a magnet on them. I had planned on using aluminum bars cut a few inches shorter. I hope the Amazon CF tubes will work. Otherwise, I might need to go with some kind of CF bar that was designed for the 14's clipons.

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Rook: The "worst casse" is that you replace the ZX-14 clip-on mounts along with the tubes, using the simply "clamp" type mounts that clamp the clip-on tubes and then are clamped onto the fork tubes.

Jim G

Ehhhh--already thought about that. A) would look sorta....wierd and maybe bad without the top triple tree plate (not to mention I will need to keep my ignition on the top triple tree until I get around to replacing/relocating it with a toggle switch). B) you need the top clamps to secure the forks safely. Especially my Ohlins forks. Ohlins only lets you torque the main clamp 7 ft lb. The top is stock torque if I recall ....something like 18 ft lb??? Loose the top clamps and now I'm riding on the 7 ft lbs below. No thanks, I like my little wheelies too much!

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I did not realize that, Rook! Thank-you. I think finding CF tubing that has a "plug" at one end that could be threaded to accept that co-axial bolt, could be hard or impossible. This unconventional ZX-14 clip-on mounting might make the CF tube idea unworkable on the ZX-14.

A VERY large wellnut might work, but I'm not sure that would provide enough hold.

Jim G

* Last updated by: JimGnitecki on 4/11/2019 @ 3:27 PM *

LOL yeah, we'd want to make sure a bar didn't come loose going down the road!

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DHC makes carbon clip ons for the zx14, and a few other carbon fiber parts..
Duck Hunter Composites

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They are not on the Duck Hunter Composites website. I sent them an inquiry about the clip-ons and any other ZX-14R parts. They would be really convenient for me - They are in Victoria, British Columbia, about 90 to 100 miles from my home. Thanks for this lead and also the axle nut lead on the other thread! :)

Jim G

Jim, DHC is building a lowered carbon gas tank, carbon rear subframe, tail with a solo seat conversion, rear sets, clipons, exhaust hanger, reservoir brackets, pair block offs, air filter cover, levers, motor mounts, engine access covers, battery cover, crankcase breather and catch can, and generator cover. Matt Boux is a great guy to deal with, please mention Steve when you message him..

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 6/21/2019 @ 11:51 AM *

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CoolBrzBlu: I sent Matt another email asking some specific questions.

Jim G

Matt usually wants you to provide the carbon tubing for the clip ons, I can send you the links for the tubing if you are interested.

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Yes, please send me the links for the CF tubing. I might not do it right away (lot of other stuff going on right now), but will almost certainly do it at some point, provided the cost is not ridiculous. As I recall from previously looking into this idea, the CF tubing is not that costly itself, but I don't know how Matt secures it in the OEM clip-on mounts since it is hollow.

Jim G

Tubing is pretty cheap. There is cheaper tubing available from overseas.

Stock clip on and aluminum bar weighs 458 grams, cf version weighs 248 grams.

Clearwater composites

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 6/21/2019 @ 11:18 AM *

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Thanks! It's only 0.45 lb weight saving, BUT it is located "high and wide" so has an impact. A future project for me.

Jim G

I'd like to get a couple of other pieces made for the bike, but they are almost impossible to do without the fabricator having a Zx14r there. Headlight conversion to a single hid, smooth smoked turn signals, and a smooth extended bellypan. Is there any chance you'd be interested in taking your bike over to DHC after the riding season is over?

Headlight replacements with an led or hid light would save about 7-8 lbs, and make the bike more aerodynamic.

Montgomery Motorsports busa led light

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 6/23/2019 @ 5:09 PM *

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First, riding season here is "all year"! That's one of the reasons I moved my family here! I ride at LEAST weekly even in January. The only days I don't consider going out are days following the (very rare here) application of (corrosive) road deicing chemicals (It only snows here normally maybe 3 times per year, if that). When the city or province applies those chemicals, I stay off the roads until the next decent rain has washed the chemicals away. The ZX-14R is a major tool in my leisure time.

Secondly, none of the 3 mods you mention are of any interest to me personally. In fact, the belly pan one CANNOT even be applied to my ZX-14R, as I have the Kawasaki center stand mounted and would never consider giving it up, and the rear belly pan had to come OFF to accommodate the center stand.

Thirdly, it's a 90 to 100 mile trip each way, over a mountain pass that is dangerous in the winter (gets way colder at elevation), and I'm pretty sure Matt would need more time with the bike than would be available in a non-overnight same-day-return trip, and a hotel stay in City of Victoria would be very costly.

Fourthly, my ZX-14R is 5 months old, mint, and under an extended (4 year) Kawasaki warranty offered as a free inducement to buy when Kawasaki found itself with leftover 2017 ZX-14Rs in January of 2019. So, I only make mods that I really, really want, and that won't affect warranty or risk any accidental damage to the bike in the course of the work being done. And I've seen too many bikes pawed over and even damaged while at a shop for extended periods of time.

So no, I can't see how you or Matt could make my ZX-14R being an in-shop prototype platform attractive to me. :(

Jim G

Worth a try. Not too many people ride in winter in Canada, I'm impressed. I didn't realize you were on the island, what a sweet place to live, the most temperate part of Canada..

* Last updated by: CoolBrzBlu on 6/23/2019 @ 5:15 PM *

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Yes, in the dead of winter, our dialy highs are about 40 degrees F. Our nightly lows are normally just above freezing. We do get colder nights than 32F, but not often. We get rain quite often in the winter months, but we only get snow or ice very infrequently - normally only a handful of times per year, and only within the December to February timeframe. Wikipedia refers to our climate here as "Mediterranean".

Vancouver Island is, by Government admission, "the high spots in a much larger underwater mountain range", so we have lots of adjacent small islands and very hilly and curvy roads - exactly what a motorcyclist treasures.

One negative is that the terrain is so rugged that basically only the eastern side of the island has roads and communities, and the roads and homes extend inland only a few miles except for a handful of exceptions. So, it's NOT "a different road every day" type of place.

A second negative involves the ferry services to get off and on the island, even though the BC Ferry System treats motorcyclists like royalty - no reservations required ever - they always get you on no matter how many cars are held for the next ferry, and you always get a spot right at the bow of the ferry, so you are the first ones off the ferry at the destination. The problem is that it is at least a 90 minute ferry ride to ANYWHERE, and the associated lineup and wait times and loading and unloading times make ANY ferry trip anywhere take a minimum of 2 hours and as much as 3 hours, each way, and it costs about $45 each way except on some week days where seniors go for free but the bike still costs around $28. So, any off-island motorcycle trip either has to be a very short one, or involve staying on The Mainland overnight(s).

There are also not many motorcycle shops. I am blessed by the fact that the Kawasaki dealership is just 3 km = 2 miles from my home, and its owner and I have become good friends.

Jim G

Subscibed!

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I have just purchased Driven Halo clip ons, for my gen 1
I also purchased the end bolts to attatch my weighted bar ends.
The bolt is threaded,, dont think the clip ons are.. havnt tried to fit yet... may have to tap a little

The pn for the end bolts are the same 2006 ZX 14 / 2017 ZX 10
Also had to get Driven clamps to attatch the fluid resv brackets

* Last updated by: metalmechanic on 9/30/2019 @ 3:41 PM *

After swinging the bars furthur fwd on the zx 10,, i see this is needed on my 14.
On the 10, they are about 5 deg from being straight.
I noticed that this has improved the characteristic's of the steering dampener.

* Last updated by: metalmechanic on 9/30/2019 @ 3:49 PM *

I have just purchased Driven Halo clip ons, for my gen 1

What did you do with the ignition and the top triple clamps?

I can't see doing this with mine because my Ohlins forks require a 7 ft lb torque on the lower clamps. My top clamps are what really hold the forks.

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metalmechanic,

I don't think tapping the tubes will work, however what I did for my bar end weights is I went to the local hardware store, got a standard hex number that is JUST the right size to slip into the bar, a longer bolt (with an internal/allen key head), a few washers and some rubber tubing (specifically I used fuel line hose as its what I found that was the size I wanted).

Assembelly as follows:
Bolt through bar end, then washer(s), rubber, washers(s), nut.

Slide this into the bar and tighten, the nut and washers will compress the rubber hose making it bulge and push against the inside of the bars holding it tight. I've been running my bar end weights like this for several years now without issue and I got the idea from a motorcycle parts store when I was asking about adapters for tubes without threaded inserts. The store bought ones are basically what I just described.

I ended up going to a billet triple clamp setup with lightened stem and vortex clip ons and carbon fiber tubes. I wanted something that would be lighter and sit a little further forward and closer together for a better tuck. It looks like a zx10 fork swap is also possible, with lighter triple clamps and more advanced forks as well..

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