Can I drop 1 tooth in the rear without having the studder issue? I know stock and 16/43 work well but not sure about just 1 down in the rear

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It might. The cure might be a tre install, but then you lose the gear indicator. Stumble is only starting out. If you can live with it, I'd run full power, have my gear window clean and not set in a limp code.

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I have dropped 1 and 2 with no stutter

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UPSGuy,

Is that in traction control off mode as well as the other traction settings?

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It should be fine. I had a -2 rear for a season and it never had the studder issue.

Does the bike studder because of being down on power from the gearing, or is it because of traction control? I thought 2nd gen 14R's took traction info from the wheel speed sensors, wouldn't that make this a non-issue if it is related to TC?

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44t mine studdered badly.
If I still have the bike in the spring, then I will get it fixed by Romans and run a 45.
To my knowledge he is the only one to cure this issue..., well atleast on 1 local bike he did.... u basturd Tony!!

Does the bike studder because of being down on power from the gearing

Power does not change, just how fast the deliver is mechanically applied.

or is it because of traction control?

That's where I'd guess. The ECU was not touched, nor the power.

took traction info from the wheel speed sensors, wouldn't that make this a non-issue?

Kawi's kit-ECU for racing shows a gear map change if sprocket gearing is changed. It sort of pinpoints to that little shutter of tone wheels phasing. On the other hand and as to wonder why some do and some don't, I'd have to ask what years show a pattern of do's and don't? If say my '012 stutters, my '014 does not shutter, might kawi addressed this issue down the road? Because you'd think the only change is phasing of the windows at a certain speed then goes away.

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Power does not change, just how fast the deliver is mechanically applied.

Sorry for the poor choice of words, I should have been more clear. What I meant to say was would the lower gearing cause the bike to struggle while cruising with very low rpm's, like doing 20-25mph in 6th gear and being aggressive with the throttle. But that is very different compared to traction control potentially interfering, and it would only be an issue in certain cases...

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For all 14R's any gearing change negative on the rear doesn't cause the stutter. Negative in the front, or positive on the rear, and you could potentially have a problem. There was a big thread on facebook about it, and that was what everyones input was that had their experience to share. Intrestingly enough, Rickey Gadson posted up in the same thread claiming he's geared 9 14R's, and not one had a stutter. Now he never said WHAT gearing he used, so I really don't know.

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You know, I'd love to say: when the algorithm calc's the front wheel remaining constant, it cancels out this intervention, happens so fast on the initial takeoff from a dead stop; once rolling; she is no longer in this tiny window of interference; the speed of the DTT alone is working that fast in the RAM discharge; no effect of power whatsoever at any throttle speed opening; only re-intervention is; spin up the rear wheel breaking traction; or wheelie the bike >>> the front wheel slows down = INTERVENTION(S)!

And are we talking 1st gear only? We'd have to have the current posters verify which gear this occurs in. You'd also have piece of mind of the odds one year does it, the other not and yours is what year as opposed to the years that have no effect?

* Last updated by: Hub on 1/19/2016 @ 6:44 PM *

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I'm at 16/42 and mine is a 2013 with the stutter. I only experience it in 1st and 2nd gear, with I'd say 5-10% open throttle. Any more throttle than that and it clears right up. On one single occasion it did it in 3rd gear for just a split second.

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Nasty, I have read if you go 16/43 no issues. Verified by multiple threads. Not sure if another tooth would mess you up, but if it's a bother that is what I would try. Thanks for clarifying about gearing down in the rear. I am considering staying stock wheelbase for a while because I have lots of twisties and fast transitions near my house and I want to be able to tackle those as well as have some good straight line speed. I know gadson had to drop 1 tooth to manage stock power at the strip so I figure I may need something similar, plus it would push the rear out a tad and make the bike look a little better. I think SWB looks funny like the tire is shoved up in there too far, and sadly it has to look good before I am going to like it. Would love a 6 over DME swingarm.

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I have used a rear 40,41,42,43 and 45, at stock wheel base and with 10 inch extensions with no issues, left the front stock 17 on both of my zx14's. 2012 cali model, 2103 49 state model.

* Last updated by: Blkcasper on 1/22/2016 @ 11:34 AM *

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44t mine studdered badly.
If I still have the bike in the spring, then I will get it fixed by Romans and run a 45.
To my knowledge he is the only one to cure this issue..., well atleast on 1 local bike he did.... u basturd Tony!!

Lol, Beast I would have Fixed yours as well but your attention had turned from bikes to Turbo charged snowmobiles. When the mods on your new sled were finished Your Baby girl was supposed to come back to complete the stutter fix.

Now, there is a good rumor you sold that brand new zx14,,,, For a Ducati no less. The Mighty ZX14 will call you back I'm betting. Once again "No Replacement For Big displacement" Here Kitty Kitty. We'Ve all got you now lol.

This does not look like a ZX 14 Lol,,,,, No but seriously Congrats on the new bike. Cheers.

I really enjoyed riding this bike, shhhhh

LOL, yeah it's true, and believe me.... I've been agonizing on it for a long time now. Getting my ass handed to me by you guys will be a tough pill to swallow, but I need to try to slow down abit..... says the guy with a boosted car, and a boosted sled.... rofl.

I have used from stock 42, 41, 40 and 39.
all with no stutter issue.
I do love the 40 and that's what I keep on it.

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Rather than go down on rear I went up one tooth in front. Biggest benefit is my speedometer is now dead on when compared to GPS. Prior to change when running at 70 by speedo was running about 64-65 by GPS.

I have not had stutter problems but have reflash by Ivan. One of the best things about a 14 is the torque, NO problems pulling the higher gearing. In 6th gear on highway the engine is just loafing!

Why did I change front instead of rear, cause to me it was a lot easier. Pull one cover take off one nut, swap gears, and done! Did loosen chain by moving back wheel forward then readjusted when done.

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Biggest benefit is my speedometer is now dead on when compared to GPS. Prior to change when running at 70 by speedo was running about 64-65 by GPS.

Rktsled what am I missing here ? Your bike is Gen 2 correct ? Speed on the Gen2 is calculated from Tone Ring. Sprocket changes should not play a role here.

Romans, I checked speedo before and after with gps. Don't know how or where speedo gets info from but I do know it's dead accurate now. ???

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Rkt did you put the 55 on the same time as the gearing cvhange?

Cause the gearing don't matter. But the tire's circumference would for sure.

Maybe I'll rerun my mile marker test again this year. Since I have a brand new 55 on there.

* Last updated by: VicThing on 2/20/2016 @ 1:05 PM *

Still had stock tires when I made gear change.

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