I've changed my oil 6 times and the '08 Speedo reads, 4,920 miles. Within those 6 intervals, my oil changes have been around 877.3333 miles, on average. If I have the chain properly adjusted and have fresh oil in the bike, the transmission shifts smooth and without loss of gear plant.

But once the oil breaks down, my chain property set, I have nagging miss-shifts; the foot no longer can remain consistent; I have to stab a good plant of the shift lever. Once that round of oil goes off song say, it is time to change the oil. It is that consistent mileage wise; even though I extend that mileage less than 200 miles; it ruins my flow and is now one more thing to think about is like riding on a worn tire.

I have used a blend of 50/50 weight grades split down the middle, being 2 quarts are syn, the other 2 are straight weight racing oil. This last change was 100% syn. I feel no change between fresh 50/50 (50w/5-30w) or 4 fresh quarts of 100% 5/30w.

What will signal my next oil change will be the shift quality and how she goes right down the tubes is when it is time for me sign the page in my owner's manual.

This is Maintenance and is not subject to an oil dialog. This is more observation as to oil change intervals and not necessarily about oils but when is it time to change one's oil; as per owner's manual or seat of the pants is which ever comes first.

What brand of oil do you use? -bg

I'm running Valvoline syn 5/30 and 50w Racing Torco that is over 30 years old. Yeah, I was an "A" sponsored rider with an unlimited oil supply. If you were "B" rated, you were limited to a few cases. I have no clue what they do these days. Probably the same.

I think I am finally down to my last full case. That was the reason for the 100% syn. I have the oil located at another place and the shifting was enough to dump it quick and not worry about mixing up this oil change. Bike is quiet as a mouse. Has zip in the oil filter pleats on tear-down, so I am all smiles with all that oil fallacy being you can throw in whatever you want.

Weights go with weather temperatures. The owner's manual set you up weight wise as the temps drop you run thinner oils. Warmer climates, you can up to 20/50. But 10/40 is what is recommended all around... Sans some cold temps if you keep riding is step the weight down.

Hub:

Do you use the stock oil filter, or something different/better? -bg

I am strictly OEM. I've seen aftermarket fall apart changing oil filters. That right there keeps me away from most aftermarket. Spec's are not on par with OEM. Same with the air cleaner. It fits tight. The steel screen means nothing but more smoothing. It's a plus/plus all around.

Ever pull apart an OEM oil filter? Thing is well built and has a totally different filtering fiber than say Honda of old. I'm a long time stock running street bike biker. This bike is fast as in played out fast. The thrill is gone. You know WOT to expect from the 14.

* Last updated by: Hub on 2/18/2009 @ 8:07 AM *

"PREMIUM" oil and filter brands are subject to opinion. Fact is the "PREMIUM" stuff is all pretty darn close. The more you read the more confusing it all is, LOL!! But after saying that, I still like the Purolator, "PureONE" part number "PL14610" best. Even though they changed the packaging, color now tan, texture on the filter itself, and they raised the price a little. It's capacity is just a bit larger so it gives the potential for a little more cooling effect. And the filter media is still rated the best on the market. For oil, winter time I still run the Shell Rotela 5W/40 T. For summer fun I do like Hub. I mix the Shell 5/40 with 1 quart of Amsoil 20W/50 full synthetic racing. I have 20,564 trouble free miles, just went out and looked, on my 06 is all the testament I need to continue using this.

Hub you ought to put that old oil in your tractor and not your bike. I use Actevo on a free oil change service plan and run it 2000 miles and don't notice much. I will however say the missed shifts have gone away as time has gone on. It may be my shifting practice or the bike is finally really broke in.

Well, Kaw, I called Mobil 1 and asked how long their oils shelf lifeis? He said, 500 years, so I started to hurry up on that one is use it now!

I wrote down the filters in my owner's manual and your PL4610 is also a PL14612.
Others are: K&N -KN303 and Mobil M1-108 will fit the 14's

I wrote down the filters in my owner's manual and your PL4610 is also a PL14612.

Hub I'm not sure but I think the Purolator PureONE PL14612 is the standard size one. The PL14610 is the one that has
a little more oil capacity. I thermal coated my stock header so even with it being a bit longer it still fit's. If
your running an after market full exhaust you might need to run the stock size one.

Hub, isn't the Valvoline Sync 5W30 just too light, specially for the tranny? I have heard quite few good things about their synthetics, however, I have not seen the weight that I am willing to use, 10W40, 15W40, 15W50 or even 20W50.
Regarding the filters, I just stick with Kaw. OEM, which is made by Denso.

* Last updated by: Steven14 on 2/13/2009 @ 9:16 AM *

I think I'm going to start changing my oil every 1K or so miles (per Hub's suggestion). Does anyone know of a good place to get oil filters, maybe a little cheaper than from the Kawi dealer?

Thanks. -bg

I buy the Purolator's, referenced above, from Pep Boy's for around 6.99. Just be sure and get the PureONE's, now in
a tan box. You can do a quick Goggle search and read up on them. Or go here and you can see pictures of various
ones cut open like Hub's saying.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterStudy.html

OEM P/N 16097-0004 @ Ron Ayers $ 8.48 ea. Right now I have 7 each in my garage and change them at 3K pace. I guess they will last me about 3 years.

Thanks, Steven!

I think there's a tool that helps loosen and tighten the oil filter. Would you happen to have the part number of that tool handy? -bg

* Last updated by: bgordon on 2/13/2009 @ 11:13 AM *

I will look it up and post it for you tonight.

The filter wrench I use came from Cycle Gear, P/N 1326, Imperial brand, P/N IF-6714, Dual rannge 65/67 mm

http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=TUC_15-1326_G

* Last updated by: Steven14 on 2/14/2009 @ 8:34 AM *

Steven:

Thanks VERY much for looking this up and posting it. It's exactly what I was looking for... -bg

I too use 10W-40 syn from KAWASKI . Hub , every 877.333 miles ? I thought every 2000 kilometers was allot ? .. Oh ya... how are you ?

* Last updated by: Romans on 2/14/2009 @ 6:08 PM *

Doing good, Roams. Just hanging out. Pullin' my pud till the next oil change or jail, [which ever comes first]. They don't like how I heat up my oil is my guess.

Jail sounds bad . Go with the oil change .

On a new bike it is changed at 200, 500, 1000 then at 2500 mile intervals. When it gets around 4000 miles it will get 15/50 Mobil Synthetic. Oil filters are OEM or K&N and the K&N has a nut on the end of the filter to turn to get it off.
The PL filters IMO are good and used on my cars but every body will have different opinions so go with what makes you feel good
My reason on a new bike for the quick oil changes is to help get the minute shavings that will come off the tranny as it is wearing in. That makes me feel safer.
Later == Bobby

I do the same thing as above. 200 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles, then every 2500 miles. I use Amsoil 10w40 or Mobil 1 10w40 FS for motorcylces. The K&N filters are nice and easy to use.

Not to start a heated debate here, but why on earth do some guys not spend an extra couple bux and use oem oil and filters ? I'm with Hub about the filters, oem is a good quality product most times.
I use kawasaki full synthetic oil and oem filter , and I change my oil depending on if I am riding hard or on a sunday afternoon tour . :)

* Last updated by: farmer on 2/18/2009 @ 7:22 PM *

Farmer, it does not matter to me the price of the filter. What matters to me is the quality. I stopped using the O.E.M. filters after I cut the Kawasaki OEM filter open, that came on the bike. From the factory, on my 2005 ZX-12R. I.M.O. It was junk. Not much better than a Fram, J.K. not near that bad! I immediately went to the shop and bought a K&N filter to use in place of the I O.E.M. filter I previously purchased, that's still sitting in my garage. The next three times I changed the oil I used a K&N. But I had trouble removing 2 of the three. So I did some research on the net, and found the pictures on the link I posted in this thread of the PurONE, along with a number of other filters. What I read, as well as the pictures, made me think this was a good filter and I have not had any problems with them. Granted the filter for the ZX-14 is a different number than the ZX-12R filter was back in 2005. Although they both call for the same part number now. So it is made by a different company and it might be better. I just don't know and I am not willing to go back to O.E.M. at this point to find out. I've sent oil samples to Blackstone Lab from my 14 and again they found no problem with the filter. I plan to send another sample to them at 24K. If it comes back as good as the other I will sure continue to use these filters.

That sounds fair enough.
I have never yet cut a motorcycle filter in half yet to compare, although we have compared heavy farm equipment filters and found the oem to be better quality.But on the other hand like you say ,,depends what company is making them.